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Half Note Trail, Whistler B.C.

• 3.2km loop
• start and finish Whistler Mountain Gondolas

An old hiker’s argument – “Is it cheating to take the Gondola?”

I rode the Whistler’s Peak Express Gondola. It was great to arrive at the very top of a mountain. (day pass C$53.95)

Hot down in the village, it was much cooler on Whistler Summit well above the tree line. Many tourists were under dressed. Some wore flip-flops.

The BIG view is over to Black Tusk.

The High Note trail formerly started at the Inukshuk

When I was there it had been changed to start at the (very popular) short road hike called Mathews’ Traverse.

Turn left for Mathews’. Turn right for the High Note Trail, a long traverse leading to the Musical Bumps (Piccolo, Flute and Oboe ridge summits).

After a steep descent (hard on the toes) Half Note is mostly a pretty traverse high up on the mountain.

In perfect weather like this the High Note was easy. I’m sure it can be horror show in bad weather, however.

Many on the trail were her for wildflowers.

Black Tusk watches from on high.

Last time I hiked to Black Tusk I came up via impressive Cheakamus Lake.

Decision time …

I opted to take the shorter version called Half Note. High Note from this point is 3.7km longer.

Though July had been very dry, there’s still plenty of snow on this mountain.

These have to be the cutest trail signs anywhere.

After so much good trail I was surprised to end up on some rocky scrambles.

The last section rejoins Mathews’ Traverse road.

Here’s an example of just how much snow they get in Whistler.

All in all a beautiful and very easy hike if you have good weather.

Half Note ends up at Roundhouse Lodge. I caught the Peak 2 Peak. Then descended to Blackcomb Base and found a $55 parking ticket on my rent-a-car. I’d love to be indignant … but I totally deserved it. There was simply no legal parking of any kind available in Whistler on a sunny Friday. I waited a half hour in the big lots before giving up the legal option.

See all my high resolution photos on flickr.

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I’d originally planned to do Musical Bumps trail from the top of Whistler’s Peak Express Gondola.

On the way up I noticed a sign saying Musical Bumps was closed. No reason given, not unusual in Canada.

It turned out to be too ambitious for me in any case that day. I’ll do it in future 2 days / 1 night camping at Russet Lake.

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The Perfect Hike – Joffre Lakes B.C.

Pemberton’s most popular day hike — Joffre Lakes — is famous for 3 stunning turquoise glacier-fed lakes.

  • 11km round trip plus scramble above the highest lake
  • elevation gain 350m
  • access from high elevation, paved highway 99

Seems to me Joffre Lakes is the perfect hike. Let’s say you want to take non-hikers or small children to wilderness. The first lake is only a few minutes from the parking lot on very good trail.

Groups that turn back here have a good experience in a rich, temperate rain forest.

Most hikers continue on to Middle Joffre. The trail gets increasingly rugged. It’s a challenge, actually.

Still, everyone looked extremely happy here.

The bravest venture out like gymnasts on the “fallen log”.

English is not the first language of the trail. I heard more Mandarin and German.

A surprise. I bumped into Canadian Olympic gymnast Scott Morgan. He and his girlfriend had come up to Whistler for a couple of days getaway.

Holloway Falls

The climb to Upper Joffree is a scramble at times though some sections have been improved. A hike you’ll not forget.

I carried a tent up the mountain despite the trailhead sign saying the campground was permanently FULL. (Worst case scenario I planned to wild camp.)

As expected, campsites were not nearly full. Many who book online for $5 later decide not to go. 😦

Only a few continue to scramble up the scree above the lake to the face of the cliff.

I left a Summit Stone on a large boulder.

At this point it was about 2pm. Too early to set up the tent, I thought. Should I circle Upper Joffre and then set-up?

Finally I decided to pack my tent back down to my rent-a-car. Get ready for tomorrow’s hike. (I tented for free on the river from the Wedgemount turn-off, a cyclists hangout.)

Still, I highly recommend Joffree to everyone.

See my high resolution photos on flickr.

Guidebook – 103 Hikes in Southwestern British Columbia

 

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Elfin Lakes hike, Squamish B.C.

• 22km round trip to Elfin Lakes campground (600m gain) + Gargoyles side trip
• LOTS of snow at the end of July
• be prepared for very wet trails
• BUGGY !
• registration online or by phone required to stay overnight

From the start I had problems. First finding the trailhead out of Squamish, B.C. – street signage is not all that clear. I asked different mountain bikers to find the right gravel road.

Elfin Lakes is popular. The parking lot was full. I squeezed my rent-a-car in on the side of the approach.

The first 5km to Red Heather Meadows campground is a road.

You share most of this trail with mountain bikers. And chipmunks.

Breaking out of the trees first vista is impressive Diamond Head. Actually, that’s Atwell Peak. Many make the same mistake I did.

We’d enjoyed dry sunny weather for weeks at this point. Still many parts of the trail were wet with snow melt. Some sections have been improved.

On a hot day like this, walking snow fields was fun.

I’d read the hike was on Paul Ridge. True. But it’s not a ridge walk. Normally you are on one side of the ridge or the other, not the top.

Elfin Lakes campground. A beautiful scene.

You can sleep in a large shelter or tent on one of these side slope platforms.

Elfin Lakes are not lakes, they are meltwater ponds. One for drinking water. One for … swimming.

Earlier in the week a mouse had somehow gotten into my Ursack food bag while up on the line, so I switched to a dry bag.

I enjoyed a siesta in my tent (escaping the voracious bugs) and was sluggish getting going for the recommended side trip to the Gargoyles.

Here’s the trail from Camp leading to the Gargoyles. More interesting but wetter than the Elfin Lakes approach.

Climbing up to the Pass was easy but long. Snow conditions good, you simply walked in footprints or kicked in your own steps.

Looking over to the other side.

A trail runner came down recommending I scramble the Gargoyles.

Instead I listened to my audiobook and relaxed.

The next 3 hikers arrived keen to climb. One had been here before. I climbed up the first Gargoyle to take some photos. Wow.

Suddenly inspired I scrambled the ridge myself to the end to get to this view – scenery reminding me of the Himalayas.

That’s the 11.5km trail continuing to the new Rampart Ponds Campground (Mamquam Lake Campground is permanently closed).

Tempting.

See all my high resolution photos.

Guidebook – 103 Hikes in Southwestern British Columbia

 

 

 

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Evliya Çelebi Way, Turkey

Candace Rose Rardon:

… while it was tempting to spend weeks getting lost in Istanbul, or exploring the dramatic rocky landscapes of Cappadocia, I eventually decided to devote my time in the country to a 350km (217 mi) trek. Solo.

When I set out for the journey from Istanbul, I had a sleeping bag, tent, and cooking essentials in my backpack, and was fully prepared to camp on all 22 nights of a cultural walking route called the Evliya Çelebi Way, which is named after a 17th-century Ottoman traveller and writer.

What actually transpired along the trail was a different story. In the end, I pitched my tent just four nights.

On the remaining nights, I was invited into the homes of more than a dozen Turkish families in the rural region of Anatolia, who always offered me a couch or bed to sleep on, a place at their round silver dinner tray, and endless cups of steaming tea, or çay. …

LOST AND FOUND: TURKEY AND THE ART OF HOSPITALITY

Here’s the guidebook — The Evliya Celebi Way

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Travelled Far: A Collection Of Hiking Adventures

I enjoyed Keith Foskett’s PCT and Appalachian Trail books so couldn’t resist when offered this book for free. (Kindle edition)

In this book he shares a collection of trips, thoughts and observations from his award-winning blog. From the extremes of the New Mexico wilderness to his beloved South Downs in England, he observes the world with clarity, hope, daydreams and humour.
With tales of local history, the changing of the seasons, facing death and pursuing his chosen path, this is a glimpse into one man’s unfaltering passion to follow his dreams.

His local favourite 100 mile hike. The micro-adventure he discovered connecting paths around his village. His failed attempt on the Continental Divide Trail.

Foskett explains why we hike as well as any author.

GoodReads reviews

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hiking Stein Valley next week

Lord willing and the creek don’t rise, I expect to hike the best parts of the Stein Valley  north of Whistler, B.C. next week.

Caltha peak (left) and Tundra Lake

Since I’m alone with a rent-a-car, I’ll start and finish at Lizzie Creek Forest Service Road.

Commentary on the Stein Traverse:

In various venues the Stein Traverse is described as either the ultimate wilderness experience, or a horrific slog. What it really is (from east to west) is 20km of pretty good trail, 40km of mostly poor trail with a few nice spots, 28km of incredible alpine and then a 12km green alder tunnel down an old logging road (to the Lizzie trailhead).

INTO CASCADIA – Stein Valley Park Guide

That’s the best site I’ve found for organizing this adventure.

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Shackleton’s route, South Georgia

Kraig Becker:

Twelve hundred miles off the southernmost tip of South America, there is a legendary place among travelers and historians. They speak of South Georgia Island in hushed, almost reverent terms.

This small and mountainous island, with peaks above 9,000 feet, is located hundreds of miles from the closest beaten path. But the rugged and remote wilderness is famous for another reason. South Georgia Island served as the final stage in one of the greatest survival stories of all time: Ernest Shackleton’s voyage to the southern seas aboard the Endurance. …

I hiked part of the very route that Shackleton, Crean, and Worsley trekked when they crossed the island a century ago. Hiking through the overgrown mountain trails and snowy paths, I finally arrived at the remains of the Stromness whaling station where the 19th century explorers’ desperate march came to an end. …

The interior of South Georgia is rugged and demanding to say the least, with towering peaks, steep valleys, and crystal-blue alpine lakes frequently presenting impassable barriers.

High winds, rain, and snow, coupled with rough terrain, made my walk a challenging one, even equipped with modern hiking gear and a clear path to follow. The men from the Endurance did it in clothing that was practically threadbare, wearing boots with screws tapped into the sole to provide extra traction. …

While wandering in silence through that wild landscape, I could almost feel the ghost of Shackleton trudging along beside me …

Popular Mechanics – Chasing Ernest: A Journey to South Georgia to Find the Ghost of Shackleton

(via Adventure Blog)