Getting there is a wild ride. Almost everyone signs up for a jeep tour. Only these small Toyota Landcruiser Jeeps are allowed up the mountain.
I departed my hostel in Malang City at 12:45am. It was a scary Mad Max ride over dirt tracks before reaching the viewpoint at 3:15am.
They get you there so early in case of road problems. And jeep breakdowns. It happens.
They also hope you’ll rent warm jackets and blankets. Or buy some souvenirs.
It’s well worth being there at very first light through dawn, in any case. The volcano vista keeps changing. Every photo a possible postcard.
Here are just a few of the dozens I shot.
It’s crowded! Everyone scrambling for the best position.
The adventurous bushwhack down the hillside looking for more unique framing.
I’ll never forget Bromo.
From here the jeep takes you down to the smouldering caldera for a crowded, dusty climb up stairs. I was disappointed with this and the sea of sand beneath. There are many better volcanoes to climb in Indonesia.
DETAILS
Of a number of 1, 2, or 3 day options, I ended up doing the most popular ➙ Bromo Sunrise Tour. Very inexpensive at CAD $50 which includes entry fees.
Itinerary:
00:30: Prepare for pick-up from Malanghostel by 4×4 Jeep
01:00: Journey to Penanjakan (sunrise viewpoint by jeep).
03:30: Arrive at the viewpoint and wait for sunrise
05:00: Witness the magical sunrise from Penanjakan.
BAD NEWS. As of April 1, 2023 the Nepal government required that major treks can no longer be done independently. Hiring a guide is mandatory. The obvious alternative for independent hikers is the Indian Himalaya.
UPDATE April 2024. The Everest region refused to enforce mandatory guides. Hikers are doing Base Camp independently.
Every hiker dreams of trekking in the footsteps of Hillary and Norgay. Climbing to Mt. Everest Base Camp Qomolangma (Tibetan), Sagarmāthā (Nepali) should be on your bucket list.
Here is the finest alpine scenery in the world, we reckon.
Namche Bazaar … at 3,440 metres (11,286 ft) … is the main trading center for the Khumbu region with many Nepalese officials, a police check post and a bank. …
Namche has a permanent population of around 800.
Almost everyone trekking in the Khumbu region will visit Namche Bazaar, as it is the gateway to the high Himalaya.
This is the cool Canadian Rockies hike these days. BUT it’s more of a route than a trail.
As evidence, I bumped into two of the top hiking YouTubers below the ridge — Eric Hanson and Justin Outdoors. We were heading opposite directions. Surprised and excited, I got a bit tongue twisted while chatting with them.
Slightly dangerous, Northover is not promoted by the Parks people.
I followed the route onAllTrails offline. No navigation problems.
My first tip is to WAIT for good weather. You don’t want to be on this narrow ridge in high wind and poor visibility.
On the drive up to the trailhead in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, I had a good look at momma bear and 2 young ones. I saw another juvenile bear on the drive out. None on the trail.
I booked at Aster Lake Campground before driving up. By doing this I’d decided to hike it clockwise looking down at the map. But you can do the loop in either direction.
Peter Lougheed Provincial Park NOW requires a Conservation Pass if you have a vehicle. In 2025:
Daily Pass: $15 per vehicle
Yearly Pass: $90 per vehicle
My campsite pass was checked by Rangers. They do a great job here.
Vowed to return to the beaches on the Cape Scott Trail. One day. The best part of the North Coast Trail.
In 2025 I waited for good weather. And headed back to this paradise.
The worst part of this adventure is the 60km drive in on a gravel road. Bring a good vehicle.
Highlights for many in this remote N.W. corner of Vancouver Island is wildlife. Especially bears and the quickly evolving coastal wolves.
The trail itself is super interesting. Plenty of boardwalk.
Some of the old growth trees were cut in the past. But there’s still plenty of fascinating greenery.
First stop is fantastic San Josef Bay (3-4km from the parking lot).
stunned at the magical scenery 😀
From there, I continued on to the biggest and best beach of all ➙ Nels Bight.
There are a couple of campsites on the way with platforms.
Continue to Nels if you have the time and energy.
This was close to where I camped in 2012.
Sunset was fantastic on the west coast.
Here’s the view from my tent.
No photo editing.
Pit toilets are decent.
Be sure to lock up all your food on arrival as bear sightings are almost guaranteed. (I saw only 1 bear next morning. Unlucky. Everyone else saw more.)
Weather on awakening was far more typical. Overcast with fog.
It can be very muddy. Bring good footwear.
On the return to the parking lot, I stopped to read signboards and visit the historical sites.
From 1896-1907 approximately 100 Danish settlers attempted to establish a self-governing farming and fishing community. It was extremely difficult.
A 7-foot-high dyke built to protect these flatlands was wiped out the 1st year.
Later, the government offered incentives to all. By 1912 more than 600 people were homesteading in the Cape Scott area. By 1917 most of the settlers had left the area, leaving behind whatever they could not easily pack out, including farm tools, buildings, stoves, machinery, and vehicles.
Walking out seemed to go more quickly than walking in. That often happens to me on out and back hikes.
Always a pleasure to hike temperate rain forest.
I do hope I get back to the beaches at least once more in this lifetime. 😀
2025
2012
Surprisingly, I saw not one wolf in two days. I’d seen plenty in 2012.