IMAX Kilimanjaro

The Adventure Blogger went to Kilimanjaro, inspired by the 2002 IMAX film by David Breashears.

Kilimanjaro - To the Roof of Africa (Large Format)

Kilimanjaro – To the Roof of Africa (Large Format)

I finally saw the film myself.

Fantastic.

When can I go?

There’s a terrific, funny review of the film on Amazon posted by Archimedes Tritium:

… The narrator (mountain guide Jacob Kyungai) intones that climbers of Kilimanjaro are “ordinary people people, mostly”, then goes on to introduce a Gilligan’s Island cast of climbers, picked to reflect (or engage) the folk who might go to the science museum IMAX theater on a Saturday afternoon — as compared to those who actually climb Kili.

You have The Professor (Roger Bilham, an expert volcanologist), Ginger/Mary-Ann (Heidi Albertsen, identified on the DVD only as “Trekker: Denmark”, but in reality a New York super-model you have probably seen more often on the cover of women’s magazines at your grocery store check-out line), a couple of precocious 12-going-on-25 year old kids (self-possessed and well-behaved, every Yuppie parent’s dream-child), a writer (Audrey Salkeld), and Rick Thomson, who barely made it out of the editing room, but is the father of the 12 year old girl (and was in a bad car accident shortly before the climb and had a pin in his hip, etc.)

Basically, the film shows a sort of idealized climb. This is not a movie about man against nature, or pushing the limits of human endurance. It’s about a beautiful, diverse mountain and some “ordinary” (*cough*) people who went to the top.

Bottom line: if you are going to experience a Kilimanjaro climb, it’s hard to beat tagging along with an expert volcanologist and a super-model.

The DVD contains a “Making of” feature that is of even more interest to prospective climbers than the main film. Behind-the-scenes shots of the logistics and events provides context to the apparent effortless serenity of the main feature.

The problem with the film is this: having climbed Kilimanjaro (via Lemosho – Shira -Western Breach route), the depiction of the Western Breach is disturbingly glossy. This problem is not unique to this film; it exists in the Nova documentary and virtually all text and sales-pitches advocating the Western Breach. Basically, the pitch is that the Western Breach route is “non-technical” and suitable for anyone in good physical condition who is capable of hiking for 6-8 hours a day.

The reality is there are at least 4 spots where you will find yourself clinging to an ice-covered rock, searching for slight finger & toe-hold indentations as you skitter 20-30 feet sideways. Miss a finger or toe, have a balance problem, or slip more than one hold, and you will fall 1000 feet to the rocks below. And aside from those 4 sections, a misstep or slip on any of the rest of the breach also means falling hundreds of feet. And keep in mind you are likely wearing a 20+ pound pack with several pounds of water. Basically, anything is “non-technical” if you don’t use safety equipment.

The Western Breach is precarious and dangerous. In the film, they show the cast clambering over refrigerator-sized, step-like blocks of stone. This amounts to at most 15% of the climb. The rest is not really shown, probably because it is too precarious to get footage of. A parent allowing a 13-year old on this route is inconceivable to me, unless ropes and support equipment were used to assist.

While clinging to ice-covered rocks and seeing nothing but air beneath my feet, my initial reaction was anger at the public-relations puff-job in this movie and other sources. This was quickly subsumed by the desire to simply stay alive, repeated a couple dozen times that day.

While this movie might lead people in good shape, used to jogging around the park or hiking the local hills, into thinking it’s no big deal to climb Kilimanjaro via WB (“hey, a couple 13 year olds did it”), the reality is inexplicably different than the PR. You have been warned.

By the way, if you read the companion book to this film, there is a note at the end that mentions that a few months after filming, the cast and crew was reassembled and climbed Kilimanjaro AGAIN (a 2nd time) to obtain more shots. …

Needs some straight-talk on Western Breach

Still, everyone and everyone will love this film. Highly recommended.

Kili is one of our top 10 hikes in the world. We have a somewhat skimpy information page on the Marangu Route.

#1 best hiking region in the world is …

New Zealand

There’s no debate.

The Land of the Long White Cloud Aotearoa is by far the single best hiking destination on Earth.

North Island? South Island? Both are great. And both much different.

The most compelling evidence that New Zealand has EVERYTHING a hiker could want is with photos:

Taraurua Ranges

Ohau River

Bealey Spur, Arthurs' Pass

New Zealand is insanely great for hikers. It’s safe. It’s clean. Trails are not crowded. It’s terrific for kids.

There’s no risk of altitude sickness as the glaciated peaks are at low elevation.

Best months are mid-November through mid-April for most treks.

More information on our New Zealand information page.

Our favourite tramp in New Zealand is the volcanic Tongariro Circuit. You’ll feel like you’ve entered Mordor in Lord of the Rings.

See our Tongariro Circuit Information page.

Start planning your New Zealand hiking vacation right now.

#5 best hiking region in the world is the …

Central Andes

Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia

Hiking holidays in Peru are hot right now. More popular than ever. Political stability since the leader of the Shining Path terrorist group was captured in 1992 resulted in a booming tourist industry.

The second highest mountain range on Earth is fantastic. Broad valleys and endless vistas. You are always above the tree line. Arid desert to the west, Amazon jungle to the east.

Our contributors have hiked most of the major treks in Peru the past few years. The peaks, glaciers and canyons are outrageous. Everyone is thrilled with the Andes.

Unfortunately, management of treks is atrocious, the Peruvian government seemingly bent on ruining their fantastic tourist draw. Do your homework before booking a flight to Lima. Or sign on with a trekking company with which you have had a strong, recent recommendation.

Ruminahui in Cotopaxi National Park, Ecuador

The weather in the Andes can be deadly, of course, but sometimes you get weeks of sunny blue skies, especially in the Cordillera Blanca out of Huaraz, Peru. The best weather for the high peaks out of Huaraz (the best jumping off point for hikers in the Central Andes) is the drier “Andean summer”: May-Sept.

In fact, there are good hikes somewhere in this region year round.

More information on our new Central Andes information page.

Our favourite hike in the Central Andes is the little known Ausangate Circuit in Peru, our #4 best hike in the world. Quite a few trekkers have decided on Ausangate (instead of the over-hyped Inca Trail) based on our recommendation. And all have been happy with that decision.

See our Ausangate Circuit Information page.

The best guidebook for the Central Andes, by far, is Lonely Planet:

Lonely Planet Trekking in the Central Andes

Lonely Planet Trekking in the Central Andes

Note that Bolivia is not nearly as popular as it should be due to lack of infrastructure for tourism, security concerns and political instability. Honestly, unless you know the language and culture well, it’s better to hike Peru. Or much neglected Ecuador.

#6 best hiking region in the world is the …

Patagonian Andes

Patagonia is massive and bleak. Yet we love the Patagonian Andes, 2000km (1243mi) in length, but averaging less than 100km (62mi) in width. You could take years exploring just the eastward (drier) side of the mountains.

Towering granite peaks, untouched lakes, massive glaciers, huge volcano trekking peaks. This land is phenomenal.

Trekkers target five areas:

  • The Araucania
  • Lakes District
  • Central Patagonia
  • Southern Patagonia
  • Tierra del Fuego
  • Start in Mendoza, Argentina and visit the highest mountain outside Asia, Aconcagua. Next bus to the Switzerland of South America (Lake District). Some of the highest volcanoes of the world are here. Finally, work your way south by air and ferry to the granite spires at the south tip of the continent.

    Trekking season here is Nov-Apr. (Feb-Mar often the best weather) That said, the wind and weather in Patagonia is notorious. Independent hikers need be prepared for anything and everything.

    Conversational Spanish highly recommended for those travelling independently.

    More information on our new Patagonia information page.

    Our favourite hike in the Patagonian Andes is the Paine Circuit in Chile.


    John Grey Pass, Paine Circuit – flickr – Patagonia set – Michael Bollino

    See our Paine Circuit Information page.

    The bible is Lonely Planet Trekking in the Patagonian Andes:

    Lonely Planet Trekking in the Patagonian Andes

    trekking 4 women – Asia and Africa

    annyoung.gifAnn Young is the woman behind a New Zealand based company providing quality guided adventure trekking trips.

    Uniquely, these treks are designed for women in the 40+ age group.

    Tours are available both “less strenuous” and “more challenging”.

    Challenging is right. Upcoming: Everest Base Camp, Annapurna Circuit and Sanctuary, Annapurna Circuit, Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru.

    Are you a woman who has a sense of adventure for the outdoors or wants to explore wild and wonderful places?

    Are you fascinated by other cultures of the world?

    Have you dreamed of trekking to far off places and seeing the highest mountain in the world or being on Safari on the African plains?

    All Trekking 4 Women trips are non technical. You do not have to be a mountaineer or experienced climber, trekker, or traveller to enjoy an experience to last a lifetime with
    Trekking 4 Women. If you are an absolute beginner or seasoned traveller, all you need is a sense of adventure to share with other like minded women who come from many destinations and cultures of the world. …

    trekking 4 women – Home

    fishtail.jpg
    “Fishtail” or Machhapuchhre, Nepal

    (via Women Travel the World)

    Tongariro Crossing now Tongariro ALPINE Crossing

    It’s official. As confirmed by Inside Tourism, Issue 665, 2 November 2007.

    The internationally-famous Tongariro Crossing is being renamed the Tongariro Alpine Crossing – to reflect how dangerous the 18.5 km trek can be.

    About 65,000 people are said to complete the walk each year although last year it claimed two lives and several people were caught out by hypothermia this year. The name has been chosen by DOC, TNZ, TIA, the Ministry of Tourism and Police. Guiding is not allowed on the trek but DOC is considering permitting professional guides.

    Tongariro Crossing renamed | News | New Zealand Tramper

    By any name, many people feel it’s the very best day hike in the world. The harsh volcanic route is severe and beautiful.

    1378821540_8e03963bff.jpg
    source – flickr – more Tongariro photos by Celebdu

    Tongariro Alpine Crossing – besthike information page

    Kilimanjaro trek – 3D graphics and video

    The NY Times posted the best on-line multimedia presentation of a trek I’ve ever seen.

    It makes author Tom Bissell’s Kili adventure come to life. (Tom did make it to Uhuru Peak … but could not remember the “triumph” afterwards.)

    Some screenshots of the graphics:

    route.jpg

    elevation.jpg

    Tom Bissell’s account of his painful and exhausting climb to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro.

    Check it out: Climbing Kilimanjaro – The New York Times

    (via Jeffrey Hunter on the American Hiking Society’s Southeast Trail Program blog)

    We’ve linked to both the trip report and the graphics from our Kilimanjaro information page.

    new wheelchair record on Kilimanjaro

    Well 4WheelBob

    k-wheels03.jpgAre you up to challenge Bern Goosen’s new record

    Bern Goosen of South Africa reached the summit of Kilimanjaro – and in doing so, smashed his own record for the fastest ascent of the mountain in a wheelchair.

    Mr Goosen – who has now reached Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro, twice, and remains the only man to conquer the mountain in a wheelchair – used the Rongai Route for his record attempt, covering a total distance of approximately 27.1km (16.8 miles) and gaining 3885m (12,746 feet) from the Rongai gate (sitting at 2010m, or 6595 feet above sea level), near the border with Kenya, to the summit known as Uhuru Peak (5895m, 19,341 feet) – the highest point on the |African continent.

    … Amongst the other trekkers was Neil Stephenson, who lost his leg in a shark attack in his native South Africa a few years previously. Stephenson also made it to the summit.

    WORLD RECORD FOR KILIMANJARO WHEELCHAIR CLIMB SMASHED! – Climb Mount Kilimanjaro

    What about, instead, one of those South American volcanoes we talked about, Bob? Perhaps Misti. (5822m (19,101ft)

    photo – Climbing Kilimanjaro

    (via Get Outdoors)

    4WheelBob – Kilimanjaro next?

    I tried. I tried.

    On White Mountain I tried to persuade wheelchair hiker climber 4WheelBob to buy a kayak.

    KayakBob … I like the sound of that.

    Yet Bob’s persisting in his dream of ascending the highest mountain in Africa. Bob was quoted on Marion’s blog:

    “I’m not a real publicity hound by nature, so my challenge the rest of the year is to assert myself to Corporate America, hoping some businesses find some PR value in sponsoring my planned Kilimanjaro summit next summer.” …

    Marion’s Blog: Kilimanjaro after White Mountain

    (LL Bean should sponsor Bob. They’ve got PR problems with minorities. : )

    4wheel.jpgSo if you know anyone who would like to sponsor 4WheelBob, let him know.

    He is strong. No one would bet against Bob on Kili.

    4WheelBob – official website

    4WheelBob – blog

    Marangu route, Kilimanjaro – besthike information page

    Mt Kenya – hike the OTHER Kilimanjaro

    The Adventure Junkie of The Adventure Blog keeps close tabs on what’s happening in Africa (and the rest of the world).

    His recent post Adventure On Mount Kenya caught my eye. It links to Matthew Power’s project to re-enact the Mt Kenya climb of British prisoners of war in 1943. (That “escape” was documented in the classic No Picnic on Mount Kenya: A Daring Escape, A Perilous Climb by Felice Benuzzi).

    This got me thinking …

    I’m interested in how to trek Mount Kenya independently. Or with a minimum of local support.

    Of the eight standard walking routes, Naro Moru sounds appealing. It’s possible to ascend in only 3 days (unless the altitude gets you) and has bunkhouses at each camp so a tent is not required.

    Africa’s “other Kilimanjaro,” 17,058-foot (5,199-meter) Mount Kenya, boasts all the virtues of its slightly loftier cousin—glaciers, surreal landscapes, and cloud-carpeted vistas—but with about half the hikers. Plus, it sits at the heart of the Kenyan Highlands, a patchwork of jungle and savanna where visitors can mingle with local tribes and track Africa’s Big Five on their own two feet.

    Climbing:

    While scaling the twin peaks of Batian and Nelion requires technical mountaineering skills and equipment, Point Lenana (16,354 feet or 4,985 meters), Mount Kenya’s third highest summit, can be reached with no specialized skills. The most popular trek is the 23-mile (37-kilometer) Naro Moru Route, which begins above Mount Kenya National Park headquarters. Plan to spend at least five days on the mountain. Porters are not required but are customary; they can be hired through Mount Kenya Guides & Porters ($10 a day; 011 254 062 62015).

    Adventure Guide: Mount Kenya – National Geographic Adventure Magazine

    Mt Kenya lies 150km (95mi) NE of Nairobi.

    descent.jpg

    Bernd Reinkemeier posted a trip report and photos of his 3-day ascent on the Naro Moru route.

    Mountain Club of Kenya – Hiking & Trekking