planning for The Wonderland Trail

Trail Cooking has a terrific overview page on The Wonderland Trail around Mt. Rainier close to Seattle, Washington:

… I have seen a lot of chattering about hiking plans for this coming summer, more than usual, especially about the Wonderland Trail here in Washington – our gorgeous 93 miles loop around (well more like up and down) Rainier’s flanks.

With the El Nino weather pattern this winter settling in good since Fall 2010 could be a prime year for thinking about thru hiking it. The snow levels are much lower than usual meaning an earlier hiking season and or not walking on as much snow in the higher altitude sections. Much of the destruction that occurred back in fall of 2006 has been fixed as well. …

Trail Cooking & The Outdoors – Winter Daydreaming: Planning A Wonderland Trip

more Wonderland Trail photos by siolanthe

I’m dreaming of Wonderland myself.

why haven’t I hiked Crater Lake?

Crater Lake is a caldera lake located in the south-central region of the U.S. state of Oregon. It is the main feature of Crater Lake National Park and famous for its deep blue color and water clarity. …

I kicked myself for driving past, in the past, after I watched this video. It looks superb.

[clearspring_widget title=”Beautiful Places in HD” wid=”4818aa96925a19fd” pid=”4b685d30201387a6″ width=”425″ height=”271″ domain=”widgets.clearspring.com”]

Tony’s show is one of the top ranked video podcasts on iTunes in the “Places & Travel” section. The easiest way to get every one is to subscribe on iTunes. It’s free.

But you can check out the other videos first on the official website – Beautiful Places in HD.

Climbing the Mountains of Indonesia

Daniel Patrick Quinn wrote to let us know about a new website called Gunung Bagging – Climbing the Mountains of Indonesia.

Two English expats have recently compiled a list of all the mountain and volcano peaks in Indonesia with a prominence of 1000 metres or more.

Thanks to huge advancements in mapping technology, this list of peaks, known humorously as “The Ribus”, represents a new development in our understanding of the mountain areas of the Indonesian archipelago. …

It is hoped that the list of peaks and the website will encourage hikers, whether Indonesian, expatriate or backpacker, to explore this amazing country in more detail and visit incredible areas as yet largely unexplored. …

Check out the site – gunungbagging.com

INTERESTING RIBU FACTS

Highest Ribu: Carstensz Pyramid, Puncak Jaya (4,884 metres elevation and prominence) Papua
Lowest Ribu: Tombia (1,022 metres elevation) Sulawesi Tengah
Most western Ribu: Hulumasen (2,310 metres elevation) Aceh
Most eastern Ribu: Cycloop (2,000 metres elevation) Papua Timur
Most northern Ribu: Seulawah Agam (1,810 metres elevation) Aceh
Most southern Ribu: Wanggameti (1,225 metres elevation) Nusa Tenggara Timur
Province with the most Ribus: Nusa Tenggara Timur (East Nusa Tenggara)

Summit Stone in Maui volcano

Want to grab a Summit Stone for yourself?

Look for this unique geological feature in Haleakala National Park, Maui. …

It’s very close to the Kapalaoa cabin. (maps)

Climb the trail up past this landmark. Then scramble right up on to the ridge to find the treasure enclosed in two ziplock bags.

What is a Summit Stone?

It’s a hand painted rock by DSD of the SUMMIT STONES & ADVENTURE MUSINGS blog.

There are no real rules regarding where Summit Stones are left to be discovered by future hikers. I place the ones given me in locations of singular natural beauty. Or great spiritual or historical importance.

Book that flight to Maui and go collect this one.

the sorry campgrounds of Hawaii

Over the past 3 years I’ve checked out or tented most of the official campgrounds on Kauai and Maui.

Despite being an outdoor tropical paradise, the campground situation on those 2 islands is a mess.

Your choices include National Campgrounds, State Campgrounds, County Campgrounds and a few private campgrounds.

Though inexpensive, the problem is actually getting a campsite permit for the State and County locations. You must find an administrative office and get there during office hours. You cannot simply show up at the campground at dusk.

Here are some signs I saw 2009 posted at the Waianapanapa State Park campground office on Maui.

no-permit-no-camping

notice

Looks like morale is low. Budget tight.

In fact, the County of Maui has closed campgrounds recently: Baldwin and Rainbow.

The cabins at Waianapanapa are oft called the the best lodging deal on Maui, but they get mixed reviews.

=== Best for tenting – Kauai or Maui?

Kuaia is generally better and more relaxed than Maui. When I camped without a permit in Kauai I was awoken by a friendly officer who informed me that I needed to go to an administrative office, … then charged me $5 cash instead of the usual $3 permit fee. I was very happy with that compromise.

But both islands could and should offer far better tenting than they do now.

=== Dislaimer:

Before you leave an angry comment, I did find a few good campgrounds. Mostly in the National Parks.

I stayed 2 nights free at the superb Kipahulu Campground on Maui. Loved it … despite the fact that drinking water is not available.

tent

Hosmer Grove I liked too. It’s also free. But why don’t they expand the tenting area?

The two wilderness campsites in the Halekala volcano are both great, especially Paluku.

tent-volcano

The Kokee State Park campground on Kauai is superb.

Kokee

I loved, too, the wilderness campground at the end of the Kalalau Trail on Kauai.

tent-on-beach

Most of the Kauai beach campgrounds, however, are filled with loud party animals. Locals use them as party sites 7 nights a week.

What Hawaii really needs is more private campgrounds. Camp Olowalu on Maui is the best private on the island. It would be great … except for the traffic roaring by all night long. And the big dogs running free that threatened while I was there.

=== Are things going to improve?

The Big Island finally has an online system for buying your Camping Permits. Nice.

Leave a comment if you have an opinion on Hawaiian campgrounds.

Waianapanapa State Park, Maui

There are a number of day hikes, short and long, out of uber popular Waiʻanapanapa State Park.

The park includes … seabird colonies, anchialine pools, native hala (Pandanus tectorius) forest, caves, heiau (religious temple), a natural arch, sea stacks, blowholes and a small black sand beach….

Waianapanapa-map

You can walk to Hana (3mi) along the coast, if you like. I walked most of that, often closer to the water than the official trail. Some call this the WAI’ANAPANAPA COASTAL TRAIL.

A few pics:

Wainapanapa-Park

rocky-shore-cliffs

chair-on-shoreline

Close to the parking lot, the most popular attraction is this black sand beach.

black-sand-beach

All very pretty. Especially the contrasting bright green vegetation against dark black lava stone.

rocky-islet

see the rest of my photos

Sliding Sands trail, Maui

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

I’m happy to report that the most popular hike on Maui is one of the best walks in the world. Greeting the dawn atop this volcano is one of the ultimate Hawaiian experiences.

hikers-atop-volcano

I tented at nearby Hosmer Grove Campground so to not need to drive far in the dark.

My down parka was most useful at that cold altitude. (Many tourists are under dressed, wrapped in beach towels and hotel blankets.)

… next day climbed the remaining nine thousand feet, and anchored on the summit, where we built a fire and froze and roasted by turns, all night. …

Mark Twain

Soon after dawn it’s time to begin the famed Sliding Sands trail.

crater

From Trailspotting:

Explore cinder cones and lava flows in the desolate basin of Maui’s Haleakala, possibly the largest dormant volcano on the planet.

Formed by erosion rather than volcanic activity, the valley at the summit of Haleakala boasts much to marvel at, and the packed cinder and soil underfoot makes for a relatively easy hike. Here you’ll find the silversword, an endangered plant found nowhere else on Earth with an alien appearance that compounds the other-worldly appearance of this remote location.

Ascending and looping up the mountain, the road to Haleakala National Park is equally spectacular, climbing through the clouds to the summit. Watch out for tour groups of cyclists on this road who freewheel down the mountain. These popular tours begin in the early hours of the morning so they can witness the sunrise over the island from the summit before they begin their two-wheeled kamikaze return back down the volcano. …

read more (photos, video, GPS, etc.) – Maui: Haleakala Volcano Trail

I went as far as the cinder cone of Ka Lu’u o ka O’o (spelling varies) and backtracked to my vehicle. That’s about 4mi (6.4km).

sliding-sands-trail

No need to go that far, however. The views are great everywhere … if the vista is clear. Go as far as you want. Savvy hikers check the weather report in advance before making the long, dangerous drive to the summit.

On a nice day you can see a big island volcano.

volcano-big-island

Views over Maui are impressive too.

Maui-from-above

Be aware of various dumb, inevitably endangered birds that chase tourists for handouts. They tend to get run over on this highway, as do the downhill cyclists. And cows.

birds
birds looking for crumbs on the parking lot

see the rest of my Sliding Sands photos

related caution – Washington Post – Dawn at Haleakala? Think Again

up the Kaupo Trail, Maui

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

I did an unpopular route listed in Maui Trails by Kathy Morey, but not in any other hiking guidebook.

She calls this the “Kaupo to Halekala Park Boundary“, an awkward moniker it seemed to me.

Kaupo-map

A far more common use of this trail is as the Kaupo Gap exit from the volcanic crater above. I was walking it backwards, uphill rather than downhill.

On the bright side, it’s well signed.

Kaupo-trailhead-sign

I suspect many hikers in the past arrived at remote Kaupō Ranch in rough shape from the 6000ft+ descent.

From GORP:

… Kaupo Trail can be an experience in misery: blistered feet, tortured knees, intense sun or torrential rain, and no available drinking water. The steep, rocky terrain in Kaupo Gap makes it essential that you be in good physical condition. Weak knees, bad backs, and new boots are not compatible with this trail. …

Actually, crossing a working cattle ranch was interesting.

Wild pigs are a bit of a pest. I saw many.

wild-pig
wild piglet

Here’s a working trap, set to capture the bacon.

pig-trap

I stepped on over ripe avocados.

avocado

There were no signs any other hikers had ever been on this trail. Only myself, a few farm hands, and these onlookers.

cows

Views back to the wild Kahikinui coast were nice.

Maui-coastline

But for me the biggest attraction of this walk was that it felt an authentic Hawaiian experience, not a standard tourist cattle trail.

I recommend it.

See the rest of my Kaupo to Halekala Park Boundary pics.

Black Butte Trail, California

I love the look of this volcanic scramble

Black Butte Trail

Length: 5.2 miles round-trip

Hiking time: 4 hours

High point: 6,325 feet

Total elevation gain: 1,850 feet

Difficulty: moderate

Season: mid-May through mid-November

Water: none; bring plenty …

Black Butte from the west slope of Mount Shasta. (Photo by John Soares)
Black Butte from the west slope of Mount Shasta. (Photo by John Soares)

The Black Butte Trail is Hike 45 from 100 Classic Hikes in Northern California, third edition. I discuss the same route in Hike 63 of 75 Hikes in California’s Mount Shasta and Lassen Volcanic National Park Regions, revised edition.

Click through to John’s site, Northern California Hiking Trails, for links to his guidebooks.

Hoapili Trail, Maui

Trip Report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.

I first heard of this hike on Trailspotting.

… the Hoapili Trail will take you across … 200 year old lava beds to a secluded beach.

From the trailhead hike through patches of kiawe woodland and beaches scattered with sand and white coral, contrasting starkly with the black of the lava outcroppings. Eventually and suddenly the vegetation stops – a telling sign that you’re on the newest of the lava beds – and take a sharp left turn through a gate before proceeding on through fields of barren lava formations. …

I was intrigued.

Hoapili-coastline

You can see how far the lava had to flow from the volcano to the sea.

lava-volcano

This is part of what is called the Hawaiian “King’s Highway”.

Kings-highway

Past the beach I saw a four-wheel drive truck and people camping. One reference tells that wild camping is allowed there. Tempting.

Instead I only enjoyed a short break on the log swing at Keoneoio Beach.

Rick-log-swing

All the Maui hiking guidebooks include Hoapili. But many references wrongly calculate the distance from La Perouse Bay to Kanaio Beach as 5.5 miles. It’s about 2mi (3.2km) one way.

I’ll not include Hoapili on our list of the best hikes in the world. I liked it. But many would find it too hot, too desolate. The jagged lava is tought on the feet, as well.

There’s definitely no water or other facilities. If you are hiking the Hoapili, you must be self-sufficient. Like this guy.

feral-goat

more photos from this hike

Hoapili-map