hiking Mt Yufu, Japan

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Mount Yufu (由布岳 Yufudake) is a 1,583.3 m (5,195 ft) volcano, located on the border of Yufu and Beppu, Ōita, Japan.

15km

Yufu is one of the hikes recommended in Lonely Planet Hiking in Japan.

I chose it as access is easy by public transport. In fact, when you get off the train in Yufuin, you know exactly where you’re going.

Or not. I spent perhaps 90min from that point before finding the actual trailhead. This is typically the end of the Yufu-dake hike, not the start.

Once on the trail, it’s a fun and easy ascent … for a volcano. This far south, there are still some Autumn colours.

all signage is in Japanese

This far south, too, there are still plenty of hikers in November. Most were headed the opposite direction.

Decision time. Which of the twin peaks should I climb?

I took the one closest to Yufuin, Nishi-mine (1548m). It’s slightly higher and harder.

In fact, it turned out to be quite a scramble. This point of exposure in particular convinced a couple of men to turn back and try the other.

Finally, I saw a hiker atop Nishi-mine.

He cleared out when I arrived. As did the clouds.

Fairly late in the day by this point, I left a Summit Stone, and hustled down to the nearer Yufu-tozan-guchi trailhead where I could catch a bus in either direction.

It was 45min before one arrived. A gentleman was tenting there, well prepared to do the hike next morning. We were both reeking of shōchū by the time the bus pulled up.

The Yufuin railway station has a hotsprings foot bath for waiting passengers. I couldn’t resist.

Yufuin is a hotsprings resort town, in fact, quite famous. I recommend it. I stayed at a great hostel in Beppu, though, another hot springs resort.

If you love hot springs, southern Japan is the place to go.

more photos from my day hike

SUCCESS on Mount Yōtei, Japan

trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

My alarm went off at 4:40am.

Yet it was 12:30pm before I started up the trailhead to climb Mount Yōtei out of Niseko, the most popular ski resort in Japan.

… often referred to as the “Mt. Fuji of Hokkaido” …

when has the weather been this good?

Here’s how the volcano looked when I came knocking.

Lonely Planet Hiking in Japan:

One of the toughest day hikes around with a 1500m climb up to a perfectly shaped volcano …

My guidebook called it 8-10hrs round trip. Signage said it took longer than that. There was no way I could make it this day.

… I started up.

Footing was good. Weather excellent (so far).

About half way up I met a savvy Japanese hiker already coming down. He was concerned at where I was on the mountain relative to the time. I assured him I’d be turning around quite soon.

… But you know, guys like me, Rob Hall & Gary Ball — we can push the turnaround time later than most.

And the weather actually got better instead of worse as I gained elevation.

When I saw the mountain hut I knew I’d make the top.

Normally manned by a warden, it had been locked up for weeks. Almost nobody hikes this late in the season.

I only stayed on the crater rim for about 3min as it was already 4pm. … And it gets dark starting about 4:30pm.

The second time on the crater rim I was furious. I’d dropped my camera in the snow when starting to RUN down the mountain. And then hustle back up. It’s now 4:20pm.

The welcome lights of the trailhead campground toilet. It’s 6:30pm.

The campground had been long closed. Yet incredibly the washrooms were left open and powered on. Thank-you Japan.

I tented here all alone, hoping to see one of the infamous pesky foxes. They’d long given up on the campground too.

See all my photos from this day hike.

I know what you’re thinking — this scramble was a “success” ?!

Success is relative on this trip. 🙂

Hiking Wakkanai, Japan

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

My “plan” was to travel to northernmost Japan and catch the ferry from Wakkanai to the remote island Rishiri-Zan.

In my dreams, I’d camp one night. Then do the 8hr, 18km coast-to-coast over this volcano (1712m). (Oshidomari track up, Kutsugata track down)

more photos by le.sdf.free.fr

Certainly this is one of the best hikes in Japan. And that photo is a postcard, not reality.

… Unfortunately, it’s nearly impossible to pull off this hike later than September due to: unstable weather, hostels & campgrounds being closed and/or trails being impassable due to snow or washout.

I only conceived the faint hope of trying for it late October because I saw a fleeting TV weather report showing a smiling sun over the north tip of the island. …

Waking early the morning of my intended day hike, the weather was normal — grey and drizzling. I went back to sleep.

Depressed at having yet another of my hiking plans dashed, I defaulted to a lazy day wandering the town. Then catching the train and abandoning northern Japan altogether.

Unexpectedly, the weather cleared up. And I had an excellent day hike walking directly from the train station after locking up my pack.

First stop a tranquil Temple much adorned with gardens and statuary.

Fall colours were a highlight of the day.

I climbed up above town to Wakkanai Kōen (稚内公園) park. That’s the “Russian” island of Sakhalin, in the distance.

How about this?

I began to wonder whether I should have jumped on the ferry. Nope. Here’s the micro-climate cloaking the volcano:

Instead I decided to walk the bluff, then descend down to the coast via animal trails.

Here are the animals.

This region is famed for kelp though there wasn’t much drying end of October.

In peak times these racks might be covered with kelp.

Like other parts of the world cold and inhospitable, locals like bright colours, making long winter nights less depressing.

This turned out to be one of my best hiking days in Japan :). … But I still caught the train south when it got dark.

Rishiri-Zan volcano must wait.

See more photos from my day hike of Wakkanai.

related – Climbing Rishiri-Zan trip report (2004) by Cameron L. Martindell

flushed off Mt Asahi, Japan

trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Here I am at Sugatami-ike in Daisetsuzan National Park, an impressive look-out over the fumaroles.

This volcano is LIVE.

It’s Asahidake (Mt Asahi), the highest mountain in Hokkaidō. (2,290.9 m or 7,516 ft)

… The mountain is popular with hikers in the summer and can be easily reached from Asahidake Onsen via Asahidake Ropeway.

Sugatami Pond, directly below the peak, is famous for its reflection of the peaks, snow, and steam escaping from the volcanic vents. …

I’d climbed the 500m to here, quickly and easily.

At this elevation the weather was quite reasonable — raining, but not hard. The emergency shelter was open.

From this point the top of the volcano was shrouded. Myself and Kim from Belgium were the only hikers bold (stupid) enough to climb higher. (It’s not popular with Japanese hikers end of October, as you’ve already guessed.)

We might have made it to 1900m before being driven off the mountain by wind and freezing, horizontal rain. Merde.

I slid and slipped back down the trail the way I’d come up. It was pretty much a waterfall by the time I reached bottom. Kim opted to take the Ropeway down, the cheater.

Happily, there was a gourmet dinner awaiting me below in Japan’s best and most expensive alpine hostel.

This ain’t the usual hostel grub. Even better, we had a private onsen (hot springs). I had it to myself each time as only 3 people stayed in the hostel that night.

… Here was the scene next morning, the second major snowfall of the season. Looks like a long winter ahead.

See more photos from my failed attempt to climb Asahi.

I decided (for some reason) to head NORTH from here. Yep. North.

Mt Asahi hike, Japan

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

Mount Asahi (旭岳 Asahi-dake) is the tallest mountain in Hokkaidō, Japan. … it is located in the northern part of the Daisetsuzan National Park.

The mountain is popular with hikers in the summer and can be easily reached from Asahidake Onsen via Asahidake Ropeway.

Sugatami Pond, directly below the peak, is famous for its reflection of the peaks, snow, and steam escaping from the volcanic vents. …

Lovely and welcoming … in Summer. Unfortunately I arrived Oct. 25th, closer to ski season. Many warned that the weather was too uncertain. In fact, it had been completely snowed over the week before I got there.

Eschewing the chair lift, instead (in about 90min) I walked up from Asahidake Onsen townsite to the main “hiking destination”, the top of the rope.

Emergency Shelter

I rang this bell, assuming it to be a “tradition” for new arrivals.

From there it’s about 2hrs to the top of the volcano. … But I only lasted about 1hr before high winds and horizontal rain forced me (and Kim from Belgium) to turn back.

The trail, wet and muddy on the way up …

… was in flood on the descent. Yuck.

Happily, there was a hot springs and gourmet dinner awaiting me below in Japan’s best and most expensive alpine hostel.

This ain’t the usual hostel grub.

So … the “highlight” of the hike, in the end, was my stay at Daisetsuzan-Shirakaba-So hostel.

Check out the “Canadian log cabin” annex.

More photos from my day hike.

No bicycles. No tenting except at designated sites. No fires. Fishing is allowed.

_____ Update: Next morning the village and mountain both covered with snow. Time to move on.

Gullfoss (Golden Falls) Iceland

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Of the many wonderful waterfalls of Iceland, these were the most impressive I saw.

They seem to suddenly disappear into the earth.

Gullfoss (English: Golden Falls) is a waterfall located in the canyon of Hvítá river in southwest Iceland.

Gullfoss is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the country. The wide Hvítá rushes southward. About a kilometer above the falls it turns sharply to the left and flows down into a wide curved three-step “staircase” and then abruptly plunges in two stages …

This is early season, yet the observation deck already seems near the breaking point.

I hiked down the river a ways to take in the vista from more of a distance.

See the rest of my Gullfoss photos.

More interesting photos tagged Gullfoss on flickr.

… there is another must see attraction near Gullfoss, the original Geysir. You can skip it. Go to Yellowstone, instead.

Þingvellir National Park, Iceland

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Historical hiking.

Þingvellir is a site of historical, cultural, and geological importance and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Iceland. It is the site of a rift valley that marks the crest of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge.

Due to acoustics, historians feel this rift is the most likely spot for people to assemble.

… Parliament or Alþingi was established at Þingvellir in 930 and remained there until 1789. …

It’s speculated that Clan Chieftains from across the island met here regularly for a 2wk Assembly.

I quite enjoyed wandering the area, imagining times past, ancient and modern.

See more photos.

hiking Kjos, Skaftafell, Iceland

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Kjós (‘Dell’)

Distance: 24 km

Walking time: 8 hrs.

Skaftafell, is part of Vatnajökull, the largest National Park in Europe.

Skaftafell Visitor Centre
is the most popular access. Indeed, this is the most popular campground in Iceland.

… OK, it’s EARLY in the season (June 13-14). The hordes have not yet arrived. It was closed 4 days not so long ago due to eruption of the Grímsvötn volcano, a fairly frequent occurrence, actually.

There are plenty of hiking & glacier walk options from this trailhead. Most are headed to Svartifoss.

hikers consulting the Trails map

The only backcountry tenting allowed out of Skaftafell Visitor Centre is Kjos (see map below), at the start of an unusual glacial flood plain valley called Morsárdalur.

One of the bridges had been washed out, so I needed to go in-and-out to Kjos via the same ‘route’ (It’s not signed all the way.)

Here I’m taking the easiest Morsá river crossing.

Water crossings are the biggest challenge when hiking this island. I can see why Alastair Humphreys took a packraft on his crossing of Iceland, unsupported.

Aside from the route finding, Kjos is a pretty easy walk without much elevation gain.

There’s the campsite, just coming into view.

I set up here instead, under a rock overhang.

Instead of scrambling adjacent peaks, I relaxed in the tent. The weather was a continuous drizzle. Visibility was poor, anyway.

I was quite content listening to my audio book, The Girl Who Played with Fire.

This hike reminded me of similar walks towards glaciers in the Yukon. But a big difference here are the big, black desolate areas of volcanic ash. Stark and photogenic.

I’d love to do a long walk over the ash black wasteland one day. It would be like crossing salt flats.

See more photos from this hike on flickr.

Krafla caldera, Iceland

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

The best of my hikes near Lake Mývatn was up to the Krafla Power Station. Especially since I had no idea what was going on here, at the time …

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Krafla is a caldera of about 10 km in diameter with a 90 km long fissure zone… Its highest peak reaches up to 818 m and it is 2 km in depth. There have been 29 reported eruptions in recorded history. …

You can hike close.

End of day, I headed for the new Mývatn Nature Baths, promoted as the Blue Lagoon North.

Leirhnjúkur geothermal area, Iceland

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Leirhnjúkur is a lava field close to Lake Mývatn in the north of Iceland. A loop of up to 5km in length is a popular day hike.

There was still a bit of snow, early in June.

You must be careful where you step. You might get a hot foot if you step off the boardwalk.

The colours of Hell … and bizarre volcanic oddities, make for an entertaining walk.

See more photos from this day hike.