the Lumemo Trail, Tanzania

Every once in a while I click on to The Backpacker website:

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The Backpacker – home page

It’s an old school static page that turns me off at first glance. Especially the double underlined ad links. Those infuriate me. Normally I boycott any site that was lame enough to use them.

But there is some good stuff on The Backpacker if you avoid hovering your mouse over the double underlined words.

Here’s a sample trip report, for example, by Ian Williamson.

The Lumemo Trail: A Tanzanian Wilderness Experience

There are no hotels or lodges here. This is a National Park with no roads. This park is a series of mountain rangers and interlocking valleys and only experienced hikers can mange this difficult terrain. These mountains are pristine and largely untouched by humans.

The Udzungwa Mountains National park was created primarily for the protection of flora rather than fauna. The park was registered in 1992 and is the first of its kind in Tanzania. This park is a series of mountain rangers and interlocking valleys – ranging from the top of the Kilombero Valley at 300 meters above sea level to peaks of around 2,570 meters above sea level. Only experienced hikers can mange this difficult train. Making these mountains pristine and largely untouched by humans.

The Lumeno trail is 65km long and follows the path of the Lumeno River, which is sourced in the heart of these mountains. There are three campsites along the trail that are roughly spaced at 7 to 8 hour walk intervals. They are basic campsites. Remember in Africa basic means just that, basic — simply a peace of ground cleared for your tents. It usually takes three to four days to complete this hike.

The trail passes through three types of vegetation: Miombo Woodland, Grassland and forest. Some of the wildlife you may see on this trail is the, red colobus & black and white colubus monkeys, yellow baboon, sykes monkey, sanje mangabey, bushbuck, waterbuck, bush pig, buffalo, elephant and red duikers. …

We recommend hiking of this trail to be done in the dry season — June to November — as in the rainy season the river becomes swollen and turbulent making the river dangerous to cross. The flooding can also hide crocodiles, which can be a greater danger than the swollen river.

This is not an experience for the faint hearted, however, if you love the wilderness this is an experience not to be missed.

The Lumemo Trail: A Tanzanian Wilderness Experience

Also check out their backpacking tips page. Their USA Trail Reviews by State. And much more content uploaded by their community.

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related: Lumemo River Trail – Authentic Tanzania

top 50 walks on Earth

The world’s 50 best walks is a terrific article posted by The Times Online from the U.K.

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Most of the “world’s __ best walks” lists we see are cliche, if not laughable. But this one is well researched with many interesting, original choices. Links are included to recommended guiding companies.

Their 5 most difficult treks are all excellent choices:

Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon

Choquequirao, Peru (the “new” Inca Trail)info page

Fish River Canyon, Namibia

Tour du Mont Blanc info page

Snowman Trek, Bhutan

The world’s 50 best walks – page 8 – Times Online

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Read the entire list from the beginning.

(via The Adventure Blog)

Nepal trek in November?

A few years ago, my Canadian hiking buddy Grant Assenheimer and I did an 11-day trek on the infamous Huayhuash Circuit in Peru. It was superb.

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… the remote, forbidding Huayhuash range was made famous when Joe Simpson & Simon Yates climbed Siula Grande in 1985. The book & film Touching the Void were both hits. …

… Punta Coyoc pass 5490m (18,012ft) …

Grant is in Kathmandu right now deciding on an early November hike. So far he is leaning towards Annapurna Base Camp off the Annapurna Circuit. Alternately, one of the less touristy Everest hikes.

Leave a comment below if you will be in Nepal. October / November are the best months. Grant is looking for trekking partners.

He’s happy to hike independently. Or to hire a guide.

trip report – climbing Mt. Adams, Washington 2008

A die hard hiker, I consider mountaineering the pursuit of egotistic masochists. While climbers are suffering in their tents at base camp, hikers are enjoying every minute of their adventure far below.

So it was with some reluctance that I signed on with my Adventure Racing Team (The FARTs) on a volcano climb. My only previous experience in the Pacific Northwest was an unsuccessful attempt to scramble Mount St. Helens some 10yrs ago.

FARTs climb Mt. Adams, Washington

Our trip report was inked by Chief FART Evangelist Dave Adlard … who had not carried a backpack nor slept on the ground in many years:


Lisa, Morgen, Rick, Matt and Dave set out for Mt. Adams, which at 12, 272 feet, is the second highest peak in the Cascades, just behind Rainier. …

… Mt. Adams is notoriously windy and cold, but we lucked out with high temps, and essentially no wind on Saturday, and as we went to bed, the full moon was coming up — to quote Matt, it was an epic evening! …

just after 5:00 am, we headed toward the summit, some 3000 feet and 2 miles up. …

FARTs climb Mt. Adams, Washington

… Overall, it was a great weekend, and we learned a TON! We hope to join the Mountaineers ourselves and take several of the classes, so that we can attack Rainier and some of the other peaks next season. It is an addictive hobby, as there is something really special about reaching the top, with the great efforts required. It was also a heckuva workout! …

Dave Adlard – Funtastics Adventure Racing Team – — and so they pressed on

FARTs climb Mt. Adams, Washington

Dave’s right. It was a fantastic weekend. And I’m tempted to do more peaks. Especially Rainier.

Or … hopefully the urge will subside. And I’ll hike the Wonderland Trail around Rainier, instead. (I assume there must be a mountain called Rainiest, as well.)

And my favourite of Dave’s photos. A basecamp tent shot with rockwall behind.

FARTs climb Mt. Adams, Washington

The highlight of the trip for me was sledding down the mountain on our butts!

FARTs climb Mt. Adams, Washington

FARTs climb Mt. Adams, Washington

FARTs climb Mt. Adams, Washington

MORE photos.

Llama trekking in the Alps

Mellow mountain walking. But be careful not to get a stream of llama spit in the eye while on a narrow trail.

The Eagle Way is a 1,480km trail through some of Europe’s most heart-stoppingly glorious scenery: distant clutches of chalets and spires engulfed by manicured, velvety meadows, verdant hillsides veined with tumbling glacial brooks and iridescent bursts of midsummer Alpine flora. And above it all a rearing backdrop of jagged, piebald peaks, among them Austria’s highest, the mighty Grossglockner. The sky was huge and blue, the air as crisp as apple strudel; it could not have been more Sound of Music. High on the hill with a lonely Guy-herd. …

read the article – Stick your neck out, Llama trekking in the Tyrol may sound like a joke but it’s seriously good fun, says Tim Moore -The Guardian

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Tim and his new friend go for a stroll in the Alps. Photograph: Jan Erik Burger

Dolomiten Lama Trekking … dolomitenlama@aon.at) runs three day llama treks with half-board accommodation in mountain huts from €240pp for a group of seven minimum. Day trips from €38pp.

trek the south Sinai Mountains in Egypt

Pierre Dehaene wrote to tell us of an EU supported local trekking company.

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Sheikh Sina offers hikes and excursions in the Deserts and High Mountains of South Sinai. With 25 different routes to choose from, there is something for all levels, from adventure seekers to leisure vacationers. Customers may enjoy 10 day, 5 day and 3 day excursions in various regions.

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Sheikh Sina, a Bedouin run trekking company, strives to offer the best hiking and trekking experience in the South Sinai Mountains. We remain sensitive to the local environment and its people by promoting responsible travel in protected areas that have been selected as World Heritage sights by UNESCO.

Start on their Treks page. It details options in the Galt Region and the Umm Shomar Region. Some are open year round.

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Sheikh Sina Bedouin Treks

I was there once in 1994 and — foolishly — went snorkeling and scuba diving instead of hiking. Friends set off to Saint Catherine’s Monastery. I went to the beach.

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I love the desert.

IMAX Kilimanjaro

The Adventure Blogger went to Kilimanjaro, inspired by the 2002 IMAX film by David Breashears.

Kilimanjaro - To the Roof of Africa (Large Format)

Kilimanjaro – To the Roof of Africa (Large Format)

I finally saw the film myself.

Fantastic.

When can I go?

There’s a terrific, funny review of the film on Amazon posted by Archimedes Tritium:

… The narrator (mountain guide Jacob Kyungai) intones that climbers of Kilimanjaro are “ordinary people people, mostly”, then goes on to introduce a Gilligan’s Island cast of climbers, picked to reflect (or engage) the folk who might go to the science museum IMAX theater on a Saturday afternoon — as compared to those who actually climb Kili.

You have The Professor (Roger Bilham, an expert volcanologist), Ginger/Mary-Ann (Heidi Albertsen, identified on the DVD only as “Trekker: Denmark”, but in reality a New York super-model you have probably seen more often on the cover of women’s magazines at your grocery store check-out line), a couple of precocious 12-going-on-25 year old kids (self-possessed and well-behaved, every Yuppie parent’s dream-child), a writer (Audrey Salkeld), and Rick Thomson, who barely made it out of the editing room, but is the father of the 12 year old girl (and was in a bad car accident shortly before the climb and had a pin in his hip, etc.)

Basically, the film shows a sort of idealized climb. This is not a movie about man against nature, or pushing the limits of human endurance. It’s about a beautiful, diverse mountain and some “ordinary” (*cough*) people who went to the top.

Bottom line: if you are going to experience a Kilimanjaro climb, it’s hard to beat tagging along with an expert volcanologist and a super-model.

The DVD contains a “Making of” feature that is of even more interest to prospective climbers than the main film. Behind-the-scenes shots of the logistics and events provides context to the apparent effortless serenity of the main feature.

The problem with the film is this: having climbed Kilimanjaro (via Lemosho – Shira -Western Breach route), the depiction of the Western Breach is disturbingly glossy. This problem is not unique to this film; it exists in the Nova documentary and virtually all text and sales-pitches advocating the Western Breach. Basically, the pitch is that the Western Breach route is “non-technical” and suitable for anyone in good physical condition who is capable of hiking for 6-8 hours a day.

The reality is there are at least 4 spots where you will find yourself clinging to an ice-covered rock, searching for slight finger & toe-hold indentations as you skitter 20-30 feet sideways. Miss a finger or toe, have a balance problem, or slip more than one hold, and you will fall 1000 feet to the rocks below. And aside from those 4 sections, a misstep or slip on any of the rest of the breach also means falling hundreds of feet. And keep in mind you are likely wearing a 20+ pound pack with several pounds of water. Basically, anything is “non-technical” if you don’t use safety equipment.

The Western Breach is precarious and dangerous. In the film, they show the cast clambering over refrigerator-sized, step-like blocks of stone. This amounts to at most 15% of the climb. The rest is not really shown, probably because it is too precarious to get footage of. A parent allowing a 13-year old on this route is inconceivable to me, unless ropes and support equipment were used to assist.

While clinging to ice-covered rocks and seeing nothing but air beneath my feet, my initial reaction was anger at the public-relations puff-job in this movie and other sources. This was quickly subsumed by the desire to simply stay alive, repeated a couple dozen times that day.

While this movie might lead people in good shape, used to jogging around the park or hiking the local hills, into thinking it’s no big deal to climb Kilimanjaro via WB (“hey, a couple 13 year olds did it”), the reality is inexplicably different than the PR. You have been warned.

By the way, if you read the companion book to this film, there is a note at the end that mentions that a few months after filming, the cast and crew was reassembled and climbed Kilimanjaro AGAIN (a 2nd time) to obtain more shots. …

Needs some straight-talk on Western Breach

Still, everyone and everyone will love this film. Highly recommended.

Kili is one of our top 10 hikes in the world. We have a somewhat skimpy information page on the Marangu Route.

BikeHike – best Biking Outfitter On Earth?

I’m in Phoenix, Arizona for some bike hiking. Proving unfailing dedication to my Adventure Racing Team — the Fast Farts.

Then I saw BluePeak post a shout out for BikeHike.com

(I like the sound of that domain name.)

National Geographic Adventure Magazine named them #2 ?? (as I read it) for cycle tours. Winners were profiled in the November 2007 issue.

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Check out the site – BikeHike Adventures Inc – BEST Biking Outfitter On the Earth

guided hikes in Israel

Israel Hiking offers guided walks “stressing landscapes, nature and historic sites.”

Sounds like a great way to visit the Holy Land.

… Israel is not a big country, but the range of landscapes is diverse. You can experience steep mountains, the Jordan River and the Sea of Galilee, the Judean Desert, the Arava and the Negev, and of course, Jerusalem. The stories of the bible and the antiquities from various periods can be seen wherever you go. We will do our utmost to produce a trip filled with experiences that you will talk about long after you return home. …

Our guides are English speakers, who are certified guides and have experience in the regions of the trip. If you are interested in a tour in a language other than English, we will make every effort to find a guide who speaks the language and masters the professional terms so that you will be able to enjoy the trip.

About

I greatly enjoyed hiking in the Sinai and even more so in Jordan. But I’ve never been to Israel myself.

The first trip that jumps out at me is a 7-day section of the much longer Israel National Trail:

From Tel Hay to Meron on the The Israel National Trail crosses Israel from the very north to Eilat through the Country‘s principal, most beautiful sites. …

The hike ends at the Amoud River as it approaches Lake Kinnereth. From there, we will travel by car to the youth hostel on Lake Kinnereth.

The difficulty level of the hike on the Israel National Trail is medium. …

Full price: 600 Euro. See the map.

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Makhtesh Ramon (Ramon Crater) – Wikipedia

Other more difficult treks that appeal are Ramon Crater to the Arava valley and the Eilat Hike from Timnah.

I assume security is not much of an issue when hiking in Israel. But it might be a good idea for a first time visitor to go with experts and learn the ropes.

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homepage –hikes and trecks in israel

Leave a message if you know more about hiking in Israel.

climb Roraima, Venezuela

High on my life list is Roraima. Some good tips from this guided trip report:

df005_345px.jpgThis mountain was one of the reasons I wanted to come to Venezuela, and it didn’t disappoint. I have plenty of gripes about the tour, even though we went with the company that is supposedly the best, and is the most expensive. Just little things like not quite having enough food and “guides” who know the way but aren’t very informative. This last complaint is a recurring theme so perhaps I am at fault. And our poor guide went way beyond what I think is required in giving up his sleeping bag for a girl who had stupidly got hers wet, and also fixed boots on the top of the mountain.

Roraima is one of a number of tepuis that rise from the Gran Sabana, or great savannah. It is pretty countryside of soft hills, with trees hugging the waterways, but not venturing far beyond . Tepuis are ancient structures, which have survived 1.8 billion years of erosion and now present sheer cliffs and eerily flat tops to the world, as the surrounding lands have eroded. The cute lethargic black frogs that live on top apparently have more in common with African frogs than their South American cousins suggesting effective isolation since Gondwana.

Roraima is not the largest of tepuis, but it still has a top covering 34 km sq and its summit is almost 2800 meters above sea level. Early accounts were the inspiration for Conan Doyle’s Lost World, a preposterous account of dinosaurs and cave men.

… It rained steadily the day we made our ascent. It was not heavy but it was thorough, and everyone got soaked. This was fine during the ascent, but once we reached the exposed top a cold wind made merry with all those wet clothes. Getting wet seems likely even on a rare sunny day though as the path passes under a high but drizzly waterfall. We barely noticed a difference.

The top really is different. Up here the rock appears to be quite soft and has eroded into unusual shapes, with rounded stones, gullies, cliffs, pools of water and beautiful collections of plants. Once up, the top is not really flat at all, but has high points and depressions. The guide books typically describe it as a moonscape, but this is not really right. It is predominantly rocky and in places barren, which does give it a luna feel, but the water and plants are too plentiful to really suggest a moonscape. Really, it defies description. What struck me most though was that, due to the pools and the frequent mists, it reminded me most of the moors described in Conan Doyle’s other books (think Hound of the Baskervilles). It is like a wetland based on rock. And it floods very quickly too, as we discovered on our day exploring the top when all the paths turned to rivers.

The views from the top to the neighbouring tepui Kukenan and across the savannah are impressive, but they don’t last long before the next wave of mist rolls in. This is a land in which a pretty landscape can completely disappear while you compose a photo.

There are lots of endemic species up here, marooned in a cold wetland environment. Carniverous plants abound, as do black frogs. But there is little noticeable insect life for them all to eat.

We were finally grateful that we have packed clothing for Patagonia. Roraima was far colder than any in the group had anticipated and we were grateful for our own sleeping bags (seemingly far warmer than those provided by the company) and our hats and gloves. Unlike others, we were not reduced to wearing plastic bags on our feet because our shoes were wet, and slept very soundly (though a little guiltily) while others shivered wakefully through the night.

A land of mist and rain (in Venezuela?) – Santa Elena de Uairen, Venezuela Travel Blog

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Peter and Jackie Main – original

besthike Roraima information page