Envirofit clean-burning cook stove

Kraig Becker promotes the Himalayan Stove Project.

Check this article to see what they are doing to make the world a better place:

The problems the Project are addressing and solving are obvious. Inefficient cookstoves in the fragile high Himalayan environment (and elsewhere) cause

1.) indoor air pollution and related health issues due to smoke inhalation,

2.) personal safety hazards to families and their children,

3.) deforestation,

4.) climate change and

5.) economic and other social issues.

The Himalayan Stove Project is a U.S. public charity staffed totally by volunteers who pay all their own expenses, including travel to Nepal. In addition, a growing community of institutions, corporations and individuals supports its very pragmatic mission of making a difference now.

Indoor Air Pollution (IAP) is the planet’s 4th-largest public health threat after malaria, clean water and HIV-Aids.

Changing the World One Cookstove at a Time –

Click PLAY or watch one of the clearer technology stoves on YouTube.

best lunch vista in the Dolomites

by site editor Rick McCharles

1956 Winter Olympics host Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy, is the jumping off mountain town for visitors arriving to enjoy a region of jagged mountain spires, far more striking than the Alps.

Sleep in Cortina, then catch an early bus to the trails. Of many great options, the best panorama for lunch just might be from the Nuvolau mountain hut (Refugio) built 1883, first in the Dolomites. It’s impossibly located on the very top of a 2600 meter (8530 foot) cliff.

Nuvolau

To get there you need the hiker’s shuttle bus to drop you at passo Falzarego on the SR 48. At least six different paths of varying difficulty get you to Nuvolau. Look first at Alpine Trail #439 via the Rifugio Cinque Torri (5 Towers). The Refugio offers 26 cramped beds. But with bus access this convenient, it’s best to day hike out of Cortina. (There have been many complaints from those sleeping at Nuvolau.)

Bring your own gourmet Italian food and drink from town. Or order from the hut menu. Nuvolau is only open during the hiking season, June 15 to September 30. August is busiest. That’s when Italians holiday.

The Dolomites are one of our top 10 hiking regions in the world.

The crazies at sram somehow got up there with their mountain bikes!

Nuvolau
_____

Related:

Do your shopping at Cooperativa di Cortina, founded 1893. But count your change. The ladies at the till were shortchanging foreign tourists last time we were there.

If you are flying in, book the direct Cortina Express bus from Venice’s main airport, Marco Polo.

Trip Advisor Cortina d’Ampezzo gives up-to-date recommendations for hotels in all price ranges. Cheapest is tenting.

North Coast Trail – day 7

Sept 2012 trip report by site editor Rick McCharles


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San Josef to Port Hardy

What a shame. It’s over. 😦

Perfect weather on the beach … yet I had to be at the trailhead by 1pm to catch my (prescheduled) Trail Shuttle out.

I tried to enjoy the final few hours, as best I could.

It was time to go.

This had just been left ashore. Is it a Salmon Shark?

Given time, I would have hidden myself above and taken video of whatever scavenger arrived first.

At exactly low tide, the sea stacks were dry. And very pretty.

Accessible by car, families with kids were day tripping to Josef.

I sent them running to see the “shark”. 🙂

I washed up in the estuary. And left the beach.

The signage is great on this adventure. No GPS or compass needed, really. But it would have saved time to have all water sources listed by GPS coordinates .

Cape Scott Trail parking lot.

Obviously, the girls had arrived before me.

We were somewhat stinky after 7days in the wilderness. The girls had swum in Eric Lake, however. Respect.

Unsurprisingly — for me — I found there was no water at the parking area. 😦

… It was another km walk to wash up in a creek. And change clothes.

Our Shuttle arrived, right on schedule. We were only 64km away from civilization!

Doh! We broke down, half way.

Our rescuer was paid in Halibut!

We did make time to visit the famous Shoe Tree.

One of the girls donated some sandals.

Elated to be finished, we chowed down in Port Hardy. I had Halibut & Chips and big waffle cone ice cream.

The girls and I said our farewells.

In bed at the hostel by 7:30pm. Somewhat sick in the stomach. (bad water?) Somewhat exhausted.

I won’t soon forget the North Coast Trail.

more photos


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North Coast Trail – day 5

Sept 2012 trip report by site editor Rick McCharles


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Nissen to Cape Scott Lighthouse

Mornings are often foggy on this coast. It burns off after a couple of hours on a sunny day.

Here’s a fog bank, for comparison, dissipating later in the day at Nel’s Bight.

Departing Nissen, you find that your North Coast Trail is now also the older (1973) Cape Scott Trail. In much better condition.

Very cool. Unique, so far as I’ve seen, is this broken up wooden ship hulk, sunk as a breakwater, slowly being overgrown by vegetation.

The Earth reclaiming. 🙂

From 1897 until 1910, Danish settlers tried to establish a fishing community near San Josef Bay. Due to the harsh climate and lack of governmental support, the community failed …

… another attempt was made at Hansen Lagoon, similarly failing by 1917. Alfred Spencer, the last resident, left in 1956.

Some artifacts can still be seen in the park, including a three-metre-tall granite tombstone, several corduroy roads, many ruins (that look like anonymous mossy mounds), and rusty farming implements. …

Wikipedia – history of Cape Scott

Of those relics, the most impressive to me is this crude tractor abandoned jammed between trees near Hansen Lagoon.

Nel’s Bight is gorgeous. My favourite stop. The most popular beach in the Park is reasonably easy to access from the parking lot. No need to hike the NCT to get here.

I set up my tent early in the day, for the first time. And walked the 2km long beach barefoot in bright sunshine.

I’d pushed to get here early to have time to side trip to the Cape Scott lighthouse. (minimum 13.6km)

It’s a pretty, varied and well maintained trail. I love log bridges made of materials available on site, this style in particular.

Some find the manned light house a bit of a let down. It’s immaculate, however.

The weather was marvelous. With views over to the island north of the north tip of Vancouver Island.

The letdown is the location of the light station, far from shore atop a hill. Somehow it’s not as exciting as those on the West Coast Trail.

Locals love grass fringed Guise Bay en route.

And unique Dune Neck to Experiment Bight.

Natives formerly dragged their boats across this sandy stretch rather than risk the circumnavigation of Cape Scott in dangerous seas.

FEAR the WOLVES

By the time I got back to the tent, it was late. I was tired.

My food, as always, was carefully locked away in the campsite cache.

🙂 Fortunately, I’d found stove fuel left behind by departing hikers.

😦 Unfortunately …, there was a pack of wolves close to the water source at Nel’s beach.

Why?

They were feasting dawn and dusk on a sea lion carcass dead directly in front of the Ranger’s cabin. Here a photo I took the next day.

The water — however — was close to the Ranger’s cabin, as well.

So wolves, be damned. I marched directly to get water. The beasts dissolved into the trees.

It was quite dark by the time I finished dinner. Instead of cleaning the pot, I used an old trick — filling it with sand and sea water. That prevents critters from coming to visit during the night.

But the tide was low. I had a long walk barefoot to reach the surf.

When I turned around, there was the alpha wolf, about 25ft away. They’d trapped me!

I SHOUTED. I raved. I waved (my pot).

I grabbed KELP and snapped it like a WHIP.

The wolf mother finally realized I was some madman. And finally trotted off with her brood. … At least my THEORY is that this is a mother with young ones. Some speculated the leader is the Alpha Male with 3 or 4 followers.

Here’s a wolf, perhaps the same wolf, on the same beach Aug 10th, 2012, a month before I was there.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

It was much, much later before I realized she was only coming out to see where I dumped leftovers in the sea.

Wolves almost NEVER attack humans. The are among the least threatening beasts anywhere for their size and strength.

The Vancouver Island Wolf is a subspecies of grey. They will attack dogs and, indeed, there were at least two dog encounters this season in the Park. Don’t bring your dog here.

Their main prey on this Island are Columbian black-tailed deer and Roosevelt elk. While I was on the Trail, one hiker captured video of a wolf chasing a deer through the surf.

more photos

P.S.
I’m adding a line to my résumé:

Once pursued by wolves.


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North Coast Trail – day 4

Sept 2012 trip report by site editor Rick McCharles


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Shuttleworth to Nissen Bight

My German friends were first out of Camp. Again.

Often I’m slow to depart, hoping trying to dry my gear before packing up.

A pretty morning.

I crossed the Strandby River cable car with the girls.

Many have painful feet by this point in the adventure. Mine were still OK, lucky since I only wore low cut approach shoes without gaiters.

With all this mud, next time on the NCT I’d wear Water Walking Shoes. Like these Five Ten Canyoneers.

Those worked well for me in Paria Canyon, Virgin Narrows and the West Coast Trail.

Downside?

Risk of puncturing them on a sharp branch or rock.

But aside from the rocks, most everything in this climate is soft, rotting, rounded or blunted.

I found only one thorny plant in a week.

Not much flora can harm you on this trek. There is some Cow Parsnip, which might cause skin irritation.

Unless you know what you’re doing, don’t eat any of the amazing lichen or mushrooms.

The walking gets easier and easier as you go West, as promised. You enjoy more coastal sections, less in the trees.

This was my favourite surface — dried sea weed.

You end up walking many beached logs. As a former gymnast, the balance required doesn’t intimidate. 🙂

I wish they could reroute more muddy sections over fallen logs.

Hard packed sand makes for excellent footing, too. You test each beach to find the best sand.

Personally, I try to stay on the coast, even if the walking’s more difficult. On this section I happened upon some nice tidal pools.

Though the North Coast Trail is more difficult, for some reason I fall more on the West Coast Trail.

WCT (3 times) = average 1 fall to the ground / day
NCT (1 time) = fell only twice over 7 days

… perhaps the sample size is too small. 🙂

Best advice — when you fall, pull in limbs, try to land on your pack. You want the pack to take as much of the impact as possible.

The Germans and I decided to skip Laura Creek. And go all the way to Nissen Bight.

For me that was 9hrs on foot. A long day.

At Nissen the water source is at one end of the beach, 900m away from the pit toilet. … Who’s stupid idea was that?

After traipsing back and forth, I ran out of stove fuel in any case … No hot dinner for me. Sheiss.

I really need to get one of the “twig” stoves.

more photos


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North Coast Trail – day 2

Sept 2012 trip report by site editor Rick McCharles


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Skinner Nahwitti Stretch to Cape Sutil

Skinner Creek – photo via Coast & Kayak

New day. More MUD.

It IS possible to hike along the beach from Skinner Creek to Nahwitti River at low tide. (Start a couple of hours before low tide, if you can.)

Another day. Another BEAR.

Stumbling out of the trees at this beach — there was a bear. Studiously ignoring me.

I quietly scrambled atop this rocky outcropping. No bear could get up there.

I read my book. And then left a Summit Stone in a crack on top. 🙂

Many feel the Nahwitti Stretch is even more difficult than day 1 Shushartie Overland, but I liked it much better. There’s plenty of variety. Plenty of entertainment.

For example, the Nahwitti River Cable Car.

Now that’s FUN. I did not see any sign of spawning salmon, however. Perhaps it’s too early in the season.

FUN too are the longest stairs on the Trail — “Long Leg Hill”.

Hikers praise aloud those who built these, let me tell you. 🙂

The West Coast Trail has ladders. The NCT stairs. Many.

And ropes. … Have I mentioned the ropes, as yet?

So far as I saw, there’s only one truly impassable headland on the official North Coast Trail — at km 43.2.

Late, I arrived at high tide, and was obliged to lie down for a nap.

At some point later the girls arrived, needing to wait as well. They were more than mildly surprised when I popped up out-of-nowhere from my sleep.

As we found out the following day, the girls never actually made it to Sutil that night. Due to knee pain and failing light, they decided to wild camp in one of the pocket coves just short of Sutil, having to “hang” their food from bears, wolves and (perhaps) hyenas. 🙂

If the ladies had known in advance they were too late to get through, they could have stopped at Nahwitti River campsite.

The tent platforms on the NCT are fantastic. If it’s raining, you definitely try to set-up on these.

On arriving at the beautiful big beach at Sutil, I was astonished to find 3 kayaks and 4 kayakers, just dropped by the water taxi, starting a 2wk adventure. (I wished I’d come in with them to start hiking here.)

It was a birthday party. I felt obliged to finish off the leftovers from their heavy dinner. And to drink their heavy wine. And warm myself at their friendly fire.

As dusk fell we sipped wine, … and wondered whatever happened to the girls.

No search party was launched.

more photos


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to Stove or not to Stove …

Hendrik Morkel waxes philosophic on a most practical matter:

… I’m convinced that it is on average lighter to go with an UL stove and dehydrated food, as I reckon it will be tastier and give more (mental) energy. …

Hiking in Finland – Food for Thought: Stoveless backpacking

I like that conclusion. I normally have 2-3 hot coffees in the morning, a cold lunch — and a big hot meal after dark.

My stove of preference is still the MSR Reactor.

Should I go to something lighter? 🙂

Hendrik links to these related posts:

Going stoveless / Hiking no-cook PART II (PCT)

• TrailSavvy – Alternative Menu Planning (Stove-less)

Andalucian International Walking Festival

I’m seeing a trend to hiking festivals where you can learn about local culture. This new event in Spain includes: Olive Harvest & Virgin Oil Production, Andalucian Cookery Classes, Pottery, Bodega Wine Tasting Tour, Oil Painting and several more.

February 26 – March 4, 2012
Malaga Airport, Spain

The White Mountain Village of El Burgo plays hosts to the first Andalucian International Walking & Cultural Festival.

Guided walks will explore the surrounding olive groves and beyond to the stunning Nature Park of Sierra de las Nieves. Take part in a wide variety of activities as well as colourful local fiestas including Andalucia Day and the celebration of Carnaval.

The whole thing is an invention of a company, Frontier Holidays. Looks like fun to me.

details

While you’re in Andalucia, be sure to stop by the blue Smurf village of Júzcar.

first hike Hong Kong

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Arriving at my hostel after midnight, I was pleased to meet local hiker Michael Edesess at 8:30am next morning.

He explained that hiking Hong Kong usually meant a short subway trip, a shorter walk through a modern shopping mall … and directly on to the trail!

Well signed. Well maintained. Super popular tracks.

… This must be the best major city in the world for getting on a trail quickly and easily.

Michael clearly had a destination in mind …

And here it is.

We finished at Groucho’s on Stanley beach for Michael’s favourite Belgian brew and a burger.

This is urban hiking!

more photos from our day hike

Camp 4 Bearier 700 canister

A prototype unit just shown at the Outdoor Retailers show in Vegas Salt Lake City.

… The Bearier 700 is two polycarbonate halves (production models will likely be a translucent color) that can be carried separately while hiking.

Backpackers can split them up between hikers, or carry the halves separately in or on their packs, for easier access and packing while hiking …

… at less than 2 lbs, if the Bearier 700 passes the National Park Service’s bear test, it could be a contender for the lightest canister, space-to-weight. …

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

You could see these on the market as early as May 2011.

If interested, click over to Trailspace for the specifics – Outdoor Retailer: Baffling bears with the Bearier 700