Colorado Trail – Collegiate West day 2

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

Clear Creek to Texas Creek

I carried my food in an Ursack. Very convenient. The trees here are not ideal for hanging a bear bag.

DSCN1443After a pot of coffee , it was time to do my doodie. A job well done this day. You’d never guess what’s under that flat rock. 🙂

DSCN1442There are no formal campgrounds on Collegiate West. No pit toilets. It’s dispersed camping only.

DSCN1446As so often in the Rockies, you start in the trees and climb to another high pass.

DSCN1448Seems the Collegiate Wilderness has a welcome dog. 🙂 If you want to hike with your dog, Colorado is a great place. I saw many hiking dogs over the week.

DSCN1462These were the only pack lamas I saw. The guys told me they were very helpful. Very good natured.
DSCN1466Mud is a concern in the Colorado Rockies. The Sierras in California are a far dryer alternative.
DSCN1470But I was loving the high altitude scenery.
DSCN1455 DSCN1482 DSCN1473It’s heaven up here when the sun shines.
DSCN1479DSCN1483 DSCN1484Crossing the pass. Again a little snow.

DSCN1491DSCN1498Wow.

DSCN1493 DSCN1505It’s difficult to capture the splendor in a photo.

I dropped down to Texas Creek.

DSCN1507Nice weather. If you are a beaver.

DSCN1525I probably should have stopped in a de facto campground when you first reach the creek. It’s an open field with road access.

Instead I pushed on ending up … here.

DSCN1528It was wet.

DSCN1529Yet … a glorious hiking day, all in all. 🙂

DSCN1449more full resolution photos

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

Colorado Trail – Collegiate West day 1

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

Twin Lakes to Clear Creek

Absurdly unprepared. But a superb day anyway. 🙂

I had trouble deciding where to hike in Colorado. There are simply too many great options.

The new Collegiate Loop sounded like an excellent and challenging possibility:

… In 2012 the Colorado Trail added an 80 mile stretch of trail that serves as an alternate route around the Collegiate Peaks. The new route, called the Collegiate West, follows the continental divide at much higher elevations. The Collegiate West is above tree line much of the time, which makes for rugged hiking and incredible views. …

The Collegiate East is part of the traditional Colorado Trail that stretches 500 miles from Denver to Durango. The 160-mile Collegiate Peaks backpacking loop is formed by hiking both the Eastern and Western routes of this section.

Clever Hiker

Collegiate LoopWe dropped my friend Betsy at a mountain running race near Aspen. Husband Brion drove me on to Twin Lakes, recommended as one of the best places to start the Collegiate Loop. I was hoping to get information at the General Store.

DSCN1385They sold me a new map covering the entire Collegiate Loop, but the shop-keep had not heard of the new dedicated guidebook.

Historically they’ve considered Collegiate West the Continental Divide Trail, Collegiate East the Colorado Trail.  It’s going to take some years before locals start considering the western side part of the Colorado Trail.

I was excited to get this adventure started. Ready or not.

DSCN1387Brion and Julius started up the trail with me around 11am. Thanks for the send off.

DSCN1393Just after posing for this shot, I knocked my pack into that creek. 😦
DSCN1395 DSCN1397Happily almost everything inside is kept in waterproof bags.
DSCN1398It’s a steep climb to reach the treeline en route to Hope Pass, the highest point on the Collegiate Loop 12,500ft (3810m).

I didn’t suffer much from altitude despite having only one acclimatization hike since flying in from sea level. Smarter hikers than myself would have finished crossing Hope Pass rather than starting here.

On the downside, it was raining.

DSCN1401I took shelter under those far trees with an older couple from California who were section hiking, year by year, Canada to Mexico on the Continental Divide Trail. Like me, this was their first day. They’d also started at Twin Lakes. The twosome and their dog planned to hike to the New Mexico border this summer.

DSCN1402I was embarrassed to admit to them I didn’t know whether I was hiking north or south. That’s how unprepared I was. I hadn’t yet opened my new map.

They’d hiked Collegiate East the previous summer and told me it was much less spectacular. Right then and there I decided NOT to do the entire 160 miles, but rather just the most spectacular half.

DSCN1404When the rain let up a little, I tried to get up and over Hope Pass as quickly as possible. Lightning is a real danger in the Colorado Rockies. The couple told me to go ahead and that they’d plod along behind. (The tortoise and the hare, I thought.)
DSCN1412End of July 2015 the remaining snow was not a problem. Earlier some seasons it would be a good idea to bring an ice axe.

DSCN1413 DSCN1419A couple of trail runners paused to chat. They were changing gears from uphill to downhill. This spot is where some of the Leadville Trail 100 mile racers come to grief. It’s  3,400ft of vertical on the front side, descending about 2,600ft.
DSCN1421 DSCN1420 The southern side  of the Pass was equally scenic. Plenty of wild flowers. It had been a very wet Spring and Summer here.
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DSCN1423I saw all kinds of wildlife: a ptarmigan family, chipmunks, pica, marmot, weasel. The oddest was a group of snakes sunning on trailside rocks. I was so surprised I didn’t manage to get a good photo.

DSCN1425At another stop I carefully set down the pack. Then watched it roll downhill finally coming to rest in the bushes.
DSCN1432Quite quickly, dropping down to the valley, vegetation changes.  DSCN1433You pass a number of old mine shafts. DSCN1434The final few miles to Clear Creek near Winfield were exhausting though the trail was comparatively flat. I’d been running on enthusiastic adrenaline. It finally ran out.

About 6pm I grabbed the first campsite I saw.

Clear Creek CampGood night.

more full resolution photos

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

restoration of the Elwha river

The Elwha Dam was a 108-ft (33 m) high dam located in the United States, in the state of Washington, on the Elwha River approximately 4.9 miles (7.9 km) upstream from the mouth of the river on the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

It was taken out in an effort to restore the original habitat, especially for fish breeding.

Looks pretty good in 2015. I did a short day hike from the viewpoint.

High Divide - 2

High Divide - 1

You didn’t want to be downstream when the floodgates were unleashed.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

related:

• World’s Largest Dam Removal Unleashes U.S. River After Century of Electric Production

Olympic National Park’s newest attraction is made out of an old dam [Photo Gallery]

Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, Costa Rica

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

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The highlight was seeing 2 resplendent quetzal. Another Canadian saw 4 the same day. May is breeding season.

440px-Quetzal01

… The “song” is a treble syllable described as kyow or like “a whimpering pup”, often in pairs, which may be repeated monotonously. …

It was something closer to a puppy whimper than a kitten’s sound.

… classified as near threatened on the IUCN Red List due to habitat loss. …

The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve (Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde) … founded in 1972 … visited by roughly 70,000 visitors a year. …

… extremely high biodiversity, consisting of over 2,500 plant species (including the most orchid species in a single place), 100 species of mammals, 400 bird species, 120 reptilian and amphibian species, and thousands of insects, has drawn scientists and tourists since. …

I hiked all the trails in less than 4 hours. A number were closed. They looked to me to be closed permanently.

trail map

I did take one of the closed trails for a few hundred metres, just to compare. It seemed about the same but without trail maintenance.

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For lunch I propped myself up against my pack under a giant tree. And enjoyed it so much that I left behind a Summit Stone.

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A second highlight was the bridge through and above the forest canopy. Dangling plants living only on “air” are amazing.

click for larger version

Cost for entry in 2015 was $20 for a foreign adult. Locals consider that high compared to a similar experience in the other reserves.

On the other hand, this is the only official local hiking area that reaches the continental divide.

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Though you are not likely to see any animals … (I saw only one mammal fleetingly) … I recommend this hike.

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Transportation between San Jose and Monteverde is relatively painless. You can easily get to the Arenal volcano, as well.

costarica-monteverde

I recommend it. Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve is one of the best hikes in Costa Rica.

more photos

Republicans hate hikers

That’s what I assumed after seeing the American Senate vote on this:

Amendment SA 838 was introduced to allow states to take over, transfer and sell public, federal lands, including National Forests, wildlife refuges, and wilderness areas.

The vote was purely symbolic — budget amendments carry no weight of law. But senators use the opportunity to bring attention to favored political issues and compel colleagues to take a stance on major debates.

For outdoors enthusiasts, it is a wake-up call. There are many interests trying to get their hands on your public lands, and our elected officials may be willing to sell. …

Gear Junkie – Senate Vote: Amendment Sanctions Sale Of National Forests, Public Land

Democrats voted against.

To be fair, 3 Republicans — Corey Gardner of Colorado, Kelly Ayotte of New Hampshire and Lamar Alexander of Tennessee crossed the aisle in opposition.

Those 3 are still welcome to sit around my campfire.

Americans who love wilderness should vote against Republicans.

Vote against Republican candidate Taylor HayesFracking Old Faithful? Republicans Want to Tap Our National Parks for Energy

Vote against Rep. Don Young, a Republican from Alaska. He introduced the “No More National Parks” bill.

national_parks_1200x627

Tell Congress: Reject the “No More National Parks” Bill

dangers of the Pacific Crest Trail

Forget about bears, mountain lions, and murderers –

The last (and only) recorded death from a wild bear in California, Oregon, or Washington? A four-year old girl in 1974. The last hiker killed by a mountain lion on the PCT? Never. The last time a person was murdered on the PCT? Also, never.

snake
photo via HalfwayAnywhere.com

Scary things on the Pacific Crest Trail

1. LIGHTNING
2. UNMARKED TRAIL JUNCTIONS
3. BEES

bees
bees photo via HalfwayAnywhere.com

4. GIARDIA
5. THE SUN & DEHYDRATION
6. POISONOUS PLANTS
7. BUTT CHAFE
8. BICYCLISTS
9. MOSQUITOS
10. CARS
11. UNLEASHED DOGS
12. MAN-MADE HAZARDS (Asbestos, high voltage cables, and unexploded military ordinances are just a few …)
13. THE BOOGIE MAN (psychological distress)
14. SNAKES
15. COWS
16. SNOW
17. POOP

17 Things Scarier Than Bears On The Pacific Crest Trail

Eden To Addo Great Corridor Hike

South Africa, Sept 3-23, 2015

400KM. 20 days. US$2060 donation.

Click PLAY or watch the 2014 hike promo on Vimeo.

https://vimeo.com/93256738

OUR VISION:

To link three mega-reserves, namely the Garden Route National Park, The Baviaanskloof Mega Reserve and the Addo Elephant National Park by means of natural corridors to protect and restore the integrity of bio-diversity and eco-system functioning. …

map

maps

I’ve hiked the Otter Trail on the Garden Route and visited Addo Elephant Park. It would be terrific to connect the two on foot.

Click over to edentoaddo.co.za E2A corridor page for more information.

bridges built of tree roots

Do you know where the most sustainable foot bridges are? No, not in Germany, Costa Rica or the Nordic states, which are the greenest countries according to the GGEI (Global Green Economy Index) 2014, but in the Meghalaya state of northeastern India. We’ll tell you why.

These suspension bridges are built with a form of tree shaping, and have a lifespan of 500-600 years.

The handmade footways are made from the roots of Ficus elastica trees, grown through betel tree trunks. …

The Khasis still grow new bridges, so when the old ones are vanishing, there will be another spectacular and vivacious footways to get across in the next centuries.

The Place Where Bridges Are Grown Instead of Built

organic footbridge

Grizzly Lake, Tombstone Mountains, Yukon

Hike Bike Travel:

If you’re looking for world-class mountain scenery, in an area that doesn’t get a lot of attention, then head to the Tombstone Mountain Range in the Yukon Territory. Starting at KM 58.5 on the Dempster Highway, the three to five day backpacking trip takes you first to Grizzly Lake, and then to Divide and Talus Lakes. It’s a wild, desolate, truly memorable landscape. …

The landscape though, is extraordinary – and I can safely say like nowhere else you’ve seen. 

Try to arrange your trip for  late August when the boreal forest and alpine meadows combine to deliver a rainbow of fall colours. But go prepared for cold temperatures and snow. I had both. …

Tombstone-backpacking-and-Dawson-City-008hsrs

Tombstone-backpacking-and-Dawson-City-053hsrs

A Hike to Grizzly Lake in the Tombstone Mountains

Long Range Traverse, Gros Morne

Gros Morne National Park is a world heritage site located on the west coast of Newfoundland. …

Gros Morne is a member of the Long Range Mountains, an outlying range of the Appalachian Mountains, stretching the length of the island’s west coast. …

Hiking the trails is a popular activity at Gros Morne. There are about 20 marked day trip trails, exploring coastal and interior areas of the park. …

The interior of the park can also be accessed, notably through the multi-day Long Range Traverse between Western Brook Pond and Gros Morne Mountain. …

Leigh McAdam:

Before you even get a whiff of the Long Range Traverse, the premier backpacking trail on Canada’s east coast, you must pass a serious navigation test and get a full orientation by staff at the Gros Morne National Park Visitor Center.

The navigation test is nothing to sneeze at. You must understand declination and know how to take a compass bearing from the map. Although you can take along a GPS, and it might help in foggy situations, it’s your map and compass skills that are of utmost importance. It’s the only place in Canada that I am aware of that requires you to pass a navigation test. I guess what happened in the past, is too many backpackers set out, only to get lost – as there is no marked trail – and ended up needing a rescue.

Hike Bike Travel – Backpacking the Long Range Traverse in Gros Morne NP: Day 1

campsite night 1

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Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

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