by pack raft to Juneau, Alaska

I’ve been following The Journey on the Wild Coast blog since July. That’s the 9 month pack raft trip from Seattle to the Aleutian Islands in Alaska by human power — Erin McKittrick and Bretwood (Hig) Higman.

I think this is their best post yet:

… After four months in the Inside Passage, we had come to wonder how much it had left to offer us: thinking of drizzly coastlines and thick forest brush, and turning our thoughts prematurely to the open Gulf of Alaska coast… But there are always suprises. The ocean between Petersburg and Juneau was one of the most alive chunks of coast we’ve seen the whole trip.

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Humpback whales sang for us the rest of that night, and a good part of the next one. During the day, white columns of whale breath were visible everywhere we looked, cruising Stephens Passage. We could hear the spouting, honking, and squeals of the closest whales, watching their rounded backs and the occasional graceful flash of a tail.

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Humpback whale tail

Just when we were wondering if we might get close enough for a picture, a humpback surfaced twenty feet from my packraft. Half of me was terrified it would flip me, while the other half marveled at the knobby texture of the whale’s skin, imagining that great big eye underwater, peering at my small yellow boat…

read more … – Journey on the Wild Coast: Trip Blog » Calm Oceans, Stormy Woods

Thunder River/Deer Creek Loop, Grand Canyon

Graywolf likes, as one of the best hikes in the world, the Thunder River/Deer Creek Loop in the Grand Canyon:

It is a very demanding and beautiful 26 to 43 (w/side trips) mile hike from the North Rim to the river and back. Awesome scenery, beautiful river, creeks, and falls and a wonderful play area in the Deer Creek narrows. To enjoy the fullest, plan on 5 night/6 day trip which would include a layover day in Deer Creek.

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Start from the north rim on the Thunder River Trail, descending about 4600′ (1400m) to the Colorado.

Return to the north rim via the Deer Creek Trail.

This hike is strenuous and can be dangerous: severe weather, over-exertion, dehydration. Even flash flood. Desert hiking experience essential.

No need to carry canyon climbing gear — though you can use it if you do.

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Deer Creek Narrows – larger original – flickr

Mike Miles posted a most entertaining trip report – Hiking Grand Canyon; an adventure on the Bill Hall, Thunder River and Deer Creek trails. They were physically challenged, injured and bothered by a marauding ring-trail cat.

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Colorado River mile 134 beach camp

We’ve added the Thunder River/Deer Creek Loop to our list of the best hikes in North America.

hike and bushwhack the Donjek Route, Yukon

Owen (the fool with wit) is a big time Canadian hiker.

His favourite Canuck hike is little known Donjek Glacier in Kluane National Park.

On a 2005 adventure during high season, Owen was told there were only 10 people in Kluane’s 22000 square kilometers!

… No signage. No one around but bears, wolves and mountains.

… creek crossings in frigid conditions. Pure good times.

Fantastic Donjek photos and video clips are posted on his unique website: eyecsed.com

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eyecsed.com

After my own Tombstone hike in the Yukon this past summer, the Donjek Route appeals. It’s next on my list.

The Donjek is almost a loop if you access the trail off the Alaska Highway at Duke River and finish 11km (7mi.) south of where you started at Copper Joe Creek.

I’ll check these details with Owen:

The 96-kilometre (60-mi.) advanced wilderness trek requires map and compass abilities and good trail-finding skills. It takes you across rolling open meadows, up and down steep ridges and through deep gullies before arriving at the sprawling glacier mass.


Distance:100 km (approx.)
Time:8 -10 days
Maximum Elevation: (7100′) …

Note: A route is not a trail. Routes are not marked with signs or maintained in any manner. The route described here is only a suggestion that may help guide you on your trip. It describes only one of many options for hiking to the Donjek Glacier. …

Overview:

One of the most popular hikes for wilderness enthusiasts is the Donjek Route. Rising over the vast alpine of the Burwash Uplands and then descending to the toe of the Donjek Glacier, this hike typifies “pristine mountain wilderness“.

… The route follows creek and river drainage for the most part with some sections along an old road, horse and wildlife trails, and some sections, without any obvious trail at all. Route finding abilities and solid wilderness experience is essential …

Parks Canada – Kluane National Park and Reserve of Canada – Activities – Hiking – Summary of Trails and Routes – Donjek Route

If you need more inspiration, Patrick Verheyen also posted photos of his 2003 hike in the region: A walk in Kluane National Park – PBase

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Ruth with her pack – larger original

UPDATE: Owen recommends Kluane National Park Hiking Guide by Vivien Lougheed. Check the COMMENTS on this post for more of Owen’s advice.

Kluane National Park Hiking Guide

On Owen’s recommendation, we’ve added Donjek Glacier to our list of best hikes in North America.

Top bull

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Top bull, originally uploaded by busybeingborn.


Hiking photos traipsing right through the middle of an Elk rut. (By the look of the photos.)

“A big bull elk, with some of his progeny. Looks like one half of his antlers has been worn smooth by combat.”

From Tom Mangan’s personal blog, Busy Being Born: All day on the Marin coast.

These guys are more dangerous than bears, Tom. Be careful out there.

Mt Kenya – hike the OTHER Kilimanjaro

The Adventure Junkie of The Adventure Blog keeps close tabs on what’s happening in Africa (and the rest of the world).

His recent post Adventure On Mount Kenya caught my eye. It links to Matthew Power’s project to re-enact the Mt Kenya climb of British prisoners of war in 1943. (That “escape” was documented in the classic No Picnic on Mount Kenya: A Daring Escape, A Perilous Climb by Felice Benuzzi).

This got me thinking …

I’m interested in how to trek Mount Kenya independently. Or with a minimum of local support.

Of the eight standard walking routes, Naro Moru sounds appealing. It’s possible to ascend in only 3 days (unless the altitude gets you) and has bunkhouses at each camp so a tent is not required.

Africa’s “other Kilimanjaro,” 17,058-foot (5,199-meter) Mount Kenya, boasts all the virtues of its slightly loftier cousin—glaciers, surreal landscapes, and cloud-carpeted vistas—but with about half the hikers. Plus, it sits at the heart of the Kenyan Highlands, a patchwork of jungle and savanna where visitors can mingle with local tribes and track Africa’s Big Five on their own two feet.

Climbing:

While scaling the twin peaks of Batian and Nelion requires technical mountaineering skills and equipment, Point Lenana (16,354 feet or 4,985 meters), Mount Kenya’s third highest summit, can be reached with no specialized skills. The most popular trek is the 23-mile (37-kilometer) Naro Moru Route, which begins above Mount Kenya National Park headquarters. Plan to spend at least five days on the mountain. Porters are not required but are customary; they can be hired through Mount Kenya Guides & Porters ($10 a day; 011 254 062 62015).

Adventure Guide: Mount Kenya – National Geographic Adventure Magazine

Mt Kenya lies 150km (95mi) NE of Nairobi.

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Bernd Reinkemeier posted a trip report and photos of his 3-day ascent on the Naro Moru route.

Mountain Club of Kenya – Hiking & Trekking

2007 Banff Mountain Photo Competition

In this year’s competition, seventeen winning images were selected from over 2100 submitted by photographers in 27 countries.
Get Outdoors – 2007 Banff Mountain Photo Competition Winners – Getoutdoors.com Outdoor Blog

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All winning photos are posted on the 2007 Banff Mountain Photo page.

scramble Skookum Volcano Trail, Alaska

I was determined to trek rugged Wrangell-St. Elias in the summer of 2007. But which hike to chose?

The National Park website has a number of recommendations for hikes in Wrangell-St. Elias. (PDF files are linked from that page)

I was tempted by the Sanford-Dadina Plateau “Volcanic Traverse” — but did not have the 4-8 days needed. Ron Cosby hiked it in July finding it demanding:

“… the hardest part was fighting through the thickest alder I’ve ever seen on the initial part of the climb up to the plateau. It took us 10 hours (including breaks) to go 4.1 miles as the crow flies according to the GPS.”

Eventually we decided instead on a simple day hike volcano scramble, a very popular route off the Nabesna road.

The trail is 2.5 miles to a beautiful high pass. …

Highlights: Roadside access, wildlife, spectacular scenery, alpine plants, volcanic geology.

Access: The Skookum Volcano Trail leaves the Nabesna Road at mile 36.8. From the beginning elevation of 3,000’, it rises to an elevation of 5,800’. This trail leads through an extinct, deeply eroded volcanic system and provides an opportunity to examine picturesque volcanic geology.

NPS

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The highlight was close-up views of Dall sheep who seem quite accustomed to human visitors.

We did the standard Skookum scramble, in and out. But there is an off-trail loop option which puts you walking a road for 1.4 miles. (Not recommended.)

Better for overnight hikers is Skookum Volcano to Rambler Mine, 10-14mi, 2-3 days, depending on route taken. Transport needed between trailheads.

more bear encounters due to global warming?

Is this another crackpot GOAT blog speculation?

Perhaps not.

Check the original post for links to the encounters mentioned:

The Aspen Times, in Colorado’s top resort town, calls this summer “The Killing Fields,” because so many local black bears have gotten into trouble and been killed. The story has powerful photos of bears being “euthanized” or driven out of town. …

The Aspen Times has more sad bear stories and photos … and an editorial — calling for a crackdown on people who get bears in trouble by offering easy garbage.

The Denver Post reports a larger wave of black bear conflicts around Colorado, and quotes a wildlife agent, “I’m up to my eyeballs in bears.”

Meanwhile, Nevada experiences a record year for black bear conflicts and executions.

In New Mexico, this summer’s black bears have bitten at least two people.

In Montana, one black bear tried to claw into a pickup-truck camper, and another wrestled a guy in a tent.

In Wyoming, wildlife agents killed a mother bear when a tranquilizer dart failed to tranquilize.

As I’ve said, I think the surge in bear conflicts is caused by global warming/drought, and more people infringing on more bear habitat, as well as people acting foolish around bears.

GOAT – A High Country News Blog » Summer of growls: More black bears bother more people

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Hiking in Alaska and the Yukon we’ve seen a fair few bears. (Two on the highway yesterday, for example.) Not sure if the incidence is up or down here. People are certainly bear aware here, however.

(Our biggest problem on the last hike was Dave losing the plastic safety piece on his bear spray and having it discharge by accident on his hands. He’s still trying to wash off the smell days later.)

trek the remote Huayhuash Circuit in Peru

I’m jealous.

Frequent contributor Eu-Jin Goh is just returned from 12 days hiking my personal favourite trek in the World.

… the Huayhuash circuit is the most spectacular extended hike that we’ve done so far.

There were four of us on the hike, Emily Rains, Ray Woo, together with Serene and I.

I had contacted Chris Benway from Cafe Andino to organize our trip for us and he did an incredible job of making sure everything went smoothly; I highly recommend Chris to anyone going to Huaraz.

I arranged for a fairly deluxe trip this time; we had two arrieros, Fernando and Juan-Carlos, taking care of the ten (!) mules and two horses, together with our cook, Zacarias Carrera, or Zac.

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Zac did an amazing job showing us the way and also cooking great food for us; he has great instincts and would figure out what we wanted to do (and then organize it) without us even mentioning it to him. I thought he was head and shoulders above anyone I’d ever had for my trips. Despite all the luxuries, it still cost about 3 – 4 times less than an organized trip by a western agency. …

Peru – Cordillera Huayhuash and Blanca, 11 June to 3 July 2007

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more favourite photos from the Huayhuash Circuit – Eu-Jin Goh

The Huayhuash is big, high and potentially dangerous:

  • minimum 140km (87mi) plus numerous sidetrips
  • many mountain passes over 4600m (15,092ft)
  • this forbidding range was made famous when Joe Simpson & Simon Yates climbed Siula Grande in 1985. Simpson wrote Touching the Void.
  • how to hike the Huayhuash Circuit – besthike information page