Mt Blanc to Matterhorn – day 5

Hiking trip report by site editor Rick McCharles. Day 5 of 7.

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From my ideal tent site it was a pleasant wander down into the valley of Lac de Moiry.

Lac-Moiry

At the same time, an American couple hiking the Haute Route were descending from their night at this interesting farm refuge.

refuge

We crossed the Lac de Moiry dam at about the same time.

dam

And met up at the bus stop on the other side.

We decided to cheat (again) by skipping the next pass, and bus instead to Zinal. It was an “easy” pass but I was turned off when I saw a car joy riding the switchbacks up that slope. I’ve no desire to hike where there are roads.

Swiss-valley

If you ask hikers what impressions they remember of the Alps, early in the conversation they’ll mention the cows and their loud cowbells.

Swiss-cow

Everybody loves them. I never got tired of them.

Famed Hotel Weisshorn disappointed.

Hotel Weisshorn

The area around the hotel was under some serious construction. I’m happy I didn’t stay there. The American couple walked on to Bella Tolla cabin.

I walked from the Hotel to the next high pass. It was easy and interesting, though the typical afternoon rain began again.

Meidpass
Meidpass

Another superb hiking day.

I had supper on the other side sitting out of the rain near a giant teepee. (Europeans love North American Indian culture.) Then chased some deer away from a spot they liked to sleep upon in the trees and set up my tent.

About 4AM one of the deer was barking up a storm. Perhaps barking at my tent.

See the rest of my photos from day 5.

on to day 6

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

Mt Blanc to Matterhorn – day 4

Hiking trip report by site editor Rick McCharles: Chamonix to Zermatt: The Walker’s Haute Route. Day 4 of 7.

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

After the rain storms of the previous day, the dawn at Cabine Dix was clear.

Cabane-Dix-vista

This hut is famous with climbers as it’s a perfect jumping off point for crossing the glacier early morning while the snow is still cold and stable.

glacier-walkers

I watched the Yellow-billed Choughs, entertaining mountain birds that are found anywhere hikers might picnic.

birds

I love ladders and had long been looking forward to those at the Pas de Chevre.

I dashed across the glacier below the hut. And rushed up to be first over the ladders.

ladders
ladders

I finished the 3rd ladder much more frightened than when I started at the bottom. These are long and scarifying.

Thank Gods I didn’t try to cross the previous night in the cold and dark.

There’s my goal. The Matterhorn, still many days away.

I was inspired
I was inspired

I was pretty happy making the descent to pretty Arolla, one of those picture postcard swiss villages.

horses-Arolla

flowers-Arolla

I relaxed by the river for a couple of hours. Then caught a bus across the valley, climbing quickly to Le Sage.

Swiss-farm

Near a typical high elevation farm I saw an interesting scene. It looked to me like the Swiss helicopter rescue service was doing some training.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Compared with the previous day, my climb over Col du Tsatse 2868m seemed easy.

mountain-pass

What a great hiking day!

See the rest of my photos from day 4.

Or start reading from the beginning of this 7-day journey, a valuable resource if you MIGHT want to do the Haute Route yourself.

… on to day 5

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

Mt Blanc to Matterhorn – day 2

Hiking trip report by site editor Rick McCharles. Day 2 of 7.

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

sunrise from Fenetre d'Arpette pass
sunrise from Fenetre d\’Arpette pass

Morning dawned clear yet again.

I quickly descended from snow, rock and ice to lush alpine meadows.

looking back at the Fenetre d'Arpette
looking back at the Fenetre d\’Arpette

When hiking I like to rise early. Put in a full hiking day of 4-6hrs. Relax for a couple of hours in the middle of the day. Then put in another 4-5hrs of hiking. Setting up the tent at around 7-8PM.

Here I am airing out the bunions at Champex-Lac.

pretty alpine town of Champex-Lac
pretty alpine town of Champex-Lac

Waiting for the bus, I stopped by the finest alpine flower garden in the Alps, Champex-Lac Alpine Garden.

Sadly in early August most of the species were already done. The bees seemed only interested in thistles.

Champex-Lac Alpine Garden

Up high in the mountains wild flowers were still going strong. But Champex is too low, too hot.

Soon I found myself up above one of the most famous ski resorts in the world, Verbier. I skipped over 15km of valley walking by taking bus, train, train and cable car. This cheat was well worth doing.

vista from Verbier
vista from Verbier

In Summer the sprawling ski town seemed to be more fixed on mountain biking than hiking, however.

I departed as quickly as possible for the wonderful Sentier des Chamois, a traverse high above the valley. Some exposure. But good opportunities to see Ibex and Chamois.

Chamois
Chamois

Late in the day I spotted another Chamois on a very attractive chunk of snow.

Chamois eating snow near Lac du Louvie
Chamois eating snow near Lac du Louvie

Normally very shy, this Chamois hung out with me for many hours … once I set up my tent on his snow supply.

tenting on snow
tenting on snow

See the rest of my photos from day 2.

on to day 3

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

hiking and biking Sportgastein

Sportgastein is the highest ski resort in the ski-intensive Gastein valley in Austria.

In the Summer it’s a lovely place to hike or bike. The best destination out of the alpine town of Bad Gastein.

A few pics from my two days there.

Sportgastein-Rick-bike

Sportgastein-horses

kids-climbing-a-small-mountain

It was more work than I expected climbing up to Nidersachsenhaus. Great views though.

more of my Sportgastein photos on flickr

everyone’s Sportgastein photos on flickr

hiking the Stone Sea in Germany

Jeni and just about everyone else told me to travel to the most beautiful lake in the country. It looks like a fjord.

Königssee
Königssee

map-GermanyYou get there from Berchtesgaden, 30km south of Salzburg. Hitler’s mountain residence, the Berghof, was located near here though Der Fuehrer rarely visited due to security worries. Today the Nazi Eagle’s Nest is a restaurant.

Nationalpark Berchtesgaden was established in 1978 and has gradually become one of the region’s largest tourist draws. While technically in Germany, this spot is surrounded on 3 sides by Austria.

The day I was at the lake a boatload of tourists disgorged every 10min to visit a famed pilgrimage church.

St. Bartholomä
St. Bartholomä

From the church I climbed up an interesting gorge to Kärlingerhaus, a popular mountain lodge.

Kärlingerhaus

Nice. But my real goal for the day was to reach the Steinernes Meer. The stone sea. A bleak and rocky plateau.

Stone-Sea

Weird. Geologically ineresting. And beautiful.

At Riemann-Haus I could have escaped back down to the valley.

Riemann-Haus

Instead I had a beer on their deck. And listened to some Army mountain climbers sing group songs before setting out for the cliffs.

beer

Immediately after … I got badly lost. (A gorgeous sidetrip, as it turned out.)

What direction would you go if your guidebook told you to take route 411?

mountain-hiking-sign

A highlight of this hike for me personally was seeing many Chamois up close. For the first time.

Chamois

Chamois2

Even better was crossing a high mountain pass alone to meet Mt. Watzmann.

Rick-and-mountain

What a great evening I had up there!

This is the best hike in the Bavarian Alps. A hiking region surrounded and overshadowed by more famous neighbours: Dolomites, Austrian Alps and the Swiss Alps.

But I’ll be adding the Stone Sea to our list of the best hikes in Europe.

It’s fantastic.

I posted 80 photos from this 3 day hike on flickr.

There’s only one guidebook in English: Walking in the Bavarian Alps. It’s one of the weakest Cicerone guidebooks I’ve used.

harsh night on an Italian mountain

Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.

I was super excited to hike the Alpe di Siusi region of the Dolomites.

… Seiser Alm, (Italian: Alpe di Siusi) is the largest high altitude Alpine meadow in Europe. Located in Italy’s Bolzano-Bozen province (South Tyrol) in the Dolomites mountain range, it is a major tourist attraction, known for skiing and hiking. …

Seiser-area

I planned 3 days, 2 nights. A big trip. Lots of mileage.

To get started, I cheated by riding the cable car to Compaccio 1844m (5050ft), a busy mountain tourist trap.

cable-car

Arriving late afternoon, I was quite quickly forced into a cave.

under-a-ski-lift

OK, it was actually a storage space under a ski lift. I relaxed, dry, for about 90min.

The typical late afternoon rain ended. Some blue sky appeared. So I set off across gorgeous alpine meadows in the direction of the high peaks. Towards Rifugio Bolzano. I was following the Walk 24 itinerary from Walking in the Dolomites: 28 Multi-Day Routes by Gillian Price.

I was alone in the early evening except for many friendly cows.

cows

Surprisingly, the skies threatened rain once again. To stay completely dry, I quickly set up my (technically illegal) tent on the side of the mountain. There I got pounded with a severe storm. Thunder and lightning non-stop for at least 5hrs. Super dangerous in the mountains. I feared for my life.

It continued raining all night.

I stayed in the tent 10hrs before I finally heard it stop.

Unzipping the fly , I was astonished to see this winter wonderland. It was July. In sunny Italy.

snow-in-the-trees

Snow is always better than rain for a hiker. I packed up as quickly as I could. And headed back down the mountain. The only other hikers I passed were a couple from Norway. They had the same idea. Hiking in the snow is beautiful. Hiking in the rain, a drag.

snow-on-Alpine-Meadow

That night I ended up in a soft bed in a terrific hostel in the quiet mountain town of Brixen.

All’s well that ends well, I guess.

But I REALLY want to go back ….

By the way, my friend Jeni had a similar experience on this same route. She got lost, taking a wrong trail/animal track. On the side of a steep mountain she decided to rope herself to the cliff. Gathering her wits, she finally decided on the safest way out of danger.

Even when there are hundreds of other hikers around, the mountains can still be very dangerous.

This was a cautionary adventure for me. It was almost as scary as the lighting storm I experienced on the John Muir Trail.

hiking Port Joli Head, Nova Scotia

Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.

Finally, a success story from my hiking days in Maritime Canada.

I loved this pretty little 8.7km day hike loop, the seaside adjunct of Kejimkujik National Park. That’s the only National Park in all of Nova Scotia.

map

It was all good. A lovely coastal walk to visit the seals.

seals

anchor

flower

see the rest of my photos

KJ024_fix

more bears in the Canadian Rockies?

A few weeks ago – on my first day of mountain biking in the Rockies – I nearly rode into a big black bear on the main trail at Canmore Nordic Centre.

In 2009 are there more bears in the Rockies? Closer to people?

Or am I simply hearing about more bears? And more cougar encounters?

trailex.org tracks encounters and information about trail safety in the Bow Valley (from Banff to Bragg Creek).

That site was set up by the husband of Isabelle Dube who was killed by a grizzly near Canmore.

… Dube, 36, was jogging with two friends when they ran into a grizzly. She scrambled up a tree, but the bear chased after her and mauled the young mother, leading to her death.

She was the first person to be killed by a bear in Alberta since 1998. Since then, two more Albertans have been killed.

Robin Kochorek, a 31-year-old Calgarian, was killed by a male grizzly last July as she was mountain biking on a trail in the Panorama area near Invermere, B.C.

Don Allan Peters, 51, a father of two daughters, was mauled to death by a grizzly last November while he was hunting about 150 kilometres northwest of Calgary. …

Fatal Bear Attacks Spur Tracking Site in Canadian Rockies

Calvin Coolidge, Horace Albright, and others encounter some Yellowstone bears.
Calvin Coolidge, Horace Albright, and others encounter some Yellowstone bears.

photo source – National Parks Traveler – It’s a Bear! Everybody Get Behind the Ranger!!

Having grown up in bear country, I still sleep well in a tent in the Rockies. I really don’t worry about them.

Cougars are a greater danger. But those encounters much rarer.

My prediction: there will soon be a public backlash against bears near people areas in the Canadian Rockies.

UPDATE: 60-year-old trail runner, Thomas Nerison, of Kalispell, Montana, narrowly avoided serious damage when he was bitten by a Grizzly in Glacier National Park last Sunday.

scrambling Lady MacDonald, Canmore, Alberta

I was looking for a good first hike of the season. And a chance to test my full set of gear.

My original plan of scrambling Ha Ling, then wild camping, was abandoned after I heard about a better option from local hiker Kelly Mock.

In fact, I walked out Kelly’s front door directly to the trailhead and up the mountain to this gorgeous vista.

teahouse-view

… Just above the treeline you’ll find a large helicopter landing pad, a steel ramp for paragliders, and the remains of a teahouse that was being constructed but is now abandoned. A gazebo just to the east of the teahouse sits on the edge of a large cliff. The views from here are spectacular. A number of hikers end their hike here as it’s already been a hard push to get this far, and the scree slope above can be daunting for non-scramblers. …

TrailPeak – Mount Lady MacDonald

Actually, it’s an easy and popular hike straight up to the ill fated teahouse. Most do not go higher as it’s recommended you have mountaineering skills on the ridge.

That’s not far wrong. The slippery scree takes you up to a knife edge ridge with killer views into the Cougar Creek drainage. In summer it’s merely daunting.

Lady-MacDonald
flickr – Marc Shandro – larger version

In the Spring it’s hairier. It looks like you might fall right through the melting cornice at spots.

MacDonald-in-April
flickr – iHeartDimSum – larger version

I stopped when I got to the snow.

Lady MacDonald is a terrific option for fit hikers. Each in your group can stop where they want. Most will relax at the teahouse or the gazebo until the adventurous return from the ridge.

This is a good hike with dogs. Don’t let them chase after the resident mountain sheep.