One of the best hikes in North America.
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We once saw 8 bears in one day in Waterton National Park. Including Moma and 4 cubs!
Trip Report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles
I made coffee in the vestibule of my tent in the dark. Packed up and was on my feet by 8am. BIG day ahead. The toughest and most physically demanding of any on the Coast Path.
It was about 2 miles to town. Another 14 miles more (at least) to finish.
I finally saw rabbits on one farm. (SLUGS are much more plentiful.)
I detoured to Newport town to pick up provisions. There was some chance I’d need to wild camp again. I had no reservation for the hostel. And it was Saturday.
Scones and fruit cake are high calorie. Easy to eat.
For the first time in my hiking career an official trail crossed a golf course. That’s cool.
In the parking lot Duke of Edinburgh hikers were unloading. These are students who had to plan and execute an expedition of at least 2 days and 1 night. They looked woefully unprepared to me.
The steep, sheer, non-stop cliffs begin. The highest 575ft (175m). There’s only one emergency exit all day.
Narrow trails. Far less used than those in the south.
Most of the coves are inaccessible except from sea.
Stunning scenery. The weather improved over the day.
October in Pembrokeshire. You know what that means? 🙂 It’s Atlantic grey seal breeding time!
I did see dozens of seals. (And 5 distant dolphins.)
But I saw only one pup. The baby (white) looked nearly as big as Mom.
Pups can’t swim yet. And they are very uncoordinated on land. Helpless as a human baby.
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Mom was in the perfect protected spot, however. A collapsed sea cave called Witch’s Calderon.
Weather was great. Aside from the wind.
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I was quite happy to round the corner and see that cliffs had ended. I’d been walking for nearly 8 hours.
On a weekend, I feared Poppit Sands hostel would be full. I’d need to wild camp again.
Happily there was space at the inn. I spent about 25 minutes in the hot shower! Welsh hostels are excellent.
It was a fun night chatting with an entertaining, informative Irishman. (Are there any other kind?) He was just finishing up a 3 month cycling holiday.
Before dinner I walked Poppit beach. My Coast Path would be ending first thing in the morning.
After coffee in the morning I had 2 miles left to trail end in St Dogmaels.
I visited the ancient Abby. And church built 1847 from Abby stones.
Here’s the finish.
Over 4 days I’d walked the first 20 miles. And the last 25 miles. About a quarter of the Coast Path. It was enough.
Then I walked another 2 miles along the Wales Coast Path, an 870-mile (1,400 km) route around the whole coast of Wales, to the bus stop at Cardigan. From there I planned to catch a bus to the train station.
In October there are no longer ANY buses to anywhere on a Sunday. Bus service has been shrinking for years for rural towns in Wales. ☹️
The closest train station was 50£ by cab. I hate taxis. So checked into a lovely hotel instead for 45£. A holiday from my hiking vacation.
Cicerone publishes an excellent guidebook with detailed map.
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles.
I woke at dawn. Shared a couple of cups of coffee with Aziz.
Then told him I might return if I couldn’t find the route.
I climbed back up to the paved road surprised to find this hotel.
If I was to do the circuit again I’d hire a cab in Imlil to deliver me here on the paved road. Begin the hike next morning.
I still had no idea where to start the climb up to Tizi Likemt (3550m), the first high pass.
Happily I saw a brightly coloured people walking down the highway in my direction. It was an Israeli couple who had just finished the circuit the opposite direction.
Waiting on them was the smartest thing I did all week. They told me the entire circuit is available on Maps.me. I had downloaded it in advance. My navigation problems were solved.
Maps.me saves the day again.
I’m sure they thought I looked too energetic. Over-confident.
I was raring to go.
On the other hand, this poor carnivore might have been a bad omen.
The climb was very long. And not all that thrilling.
Looking backward …
There’s a Japanese donated weather station at the pass, but you can’t see it from the side I climbed.
It was hot and sunny. No water.
My Darn Toughs did all 5 days of the hiking. I switched to camp socks / shoes each evening.
It was a long, hot descent as well.
In fact, a pass this high first day is stupid. That’s not smart acclimatization. On the way down I resolve to NOT recommend these first 2 days to future hikers.
Here’s the first water I’d seen in hours. All water sources should be treated in these mountains unless you see it coming out of the mountain with your own eyes.
I was happy to reach the river. A German group had already claimed the best spot.
Further along I enjoyed a couple of pots of coffee.
This is a summer grazing settlement. Animals and their keepers will head down soon when snow threatens.
The next section climbing through a gorge was very entertaining. One of my favourite bits.
I finally camped at an open area on another creek near yet another guided hiking group.
Dinner in the dark was coucous, soup, raisins and peanuts. For Morocco I switched from my usual instant mashed potatoes base to couscous.
This looks good.
Karsten Heuer’s journey was intended to show that such a system of parks and corridors is feasible. He set out in June 1998 from Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, on the beginning of a 3,400 kilometre hike that would end, 18 months later, in Watson Lake, Yukon Territory.
Along the way, he faced personal problems, including the breakup of his relationship with the woman who had planned the journey with him. He came to terms with difficult public relations problems when he spoke to loggers and others with a stake in the economic exploitation of wild lands. And, above all, he overcame extraordinary physical challenges: ferocious storms, avalanches, apparently impassable rivers in full flood, and bears that mistook him for dinner.
Accompanied by occasional human companions and a remarkable border collie named Webster …
… At just over 100 miles long, and taking 7 to 10 days to complete, the Arctic Circle Trail crosses the largest ice-free patch of West Greenland.
This splendid backpacking route, lying 25-30 miles north of the Arctic Circle runs from Kangerlussuaq to Sisimiut – both with airport access.
a summer walk, ideally from mid-June to mid-September, when the tundra is bursting with life; during the long winter, snow and ice, short days and bitter cold are the norm …
Bo Normander posted an excellent trip report from 2017:
I’m not a hunter. But there’s no doubt that hunters are some of the biggest supporters of wilderness recreation.
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A great hiking destination in southern Africa.
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The Drakensberg escarpment stretches for over 1,000 kilometres (600 miles) …
The Afrikaans name Drakensberge comes from the name the earliest Dutch settlers to the region gave it. They called them the Drakensbergen, or “Mountains of Dragons”. …
One of the best hikes there is Giant’s Cup Trail.