I had camped at a site called Azib Likemt with a guided German group.
They were up and gone long before I finished my coffee.
I followed the last of their horsemen up and over a low pass.
From the col you descend to the impressive Berber village of Amsouzert (1797m).
When water is available this mountain range is incredibly lush.
It’s a very interesting place. I could see staying overnight here.
Many homes had satellite dishes.
In fact, I later decided to recommend future hikers start at Amsouzert. It’s on the N10 highway connecting Marrakesh and Ouarzazate. A private taxi is the easiest way to get here.
Not stopping at the many shops and restaurants, I continued up up up to famous Lac d’Ifni back in the National Park.
It’s incredibly rugged with the trail forced high above.
Here I debated whether to stop at the lake. Or continue up towards the gorge climb for the next day.
Pushy shopkeepers decided it for me. I don’t like being harassed while hiking.
So it was out onto the massive spring flooding wash of stones.
Surprisingly, I couldn’t find any water until I reached camp.
Once again I camped near a guided group, this one from Iceland.
I chose my tent site as safest from rockfall.
It was still fairly early in the evening so I did some wandering, mostly laughing at the goats and sheep coming down from the gorge for nightfall.
I woke at dawn. Shared a couple of cups of coffee with Aziz.
Then told him I might return if I couldn’t find the route.
I climbed back up to the paved road surprised to find this hotel.
If I was to do the circuit again I’d hire a cab in Imlil to deliver me here on the paved road. Begin the hike next morning.
I still had no idea where to start the climb up to Tizi Likemt (3550m), the first high pass.
Happily I saw a brightly coloured people walking down the highway in my direction. It was an Israeli couple who had just finished the circuit the opposite direction.
Waiting on them was the smartest thing I did all week. They told me the entire circuit is available on Maps.me. I had downloaded it in advance. My navigation problems were solved.
Maps.me saves the day again.
I’m sure they thought I looked too energetic. Over-confident.
I was raring to go.
On the other hand, this poor carnivore might have been a bad omen.
The climb was very long. And not all that thrilling.
Looking backward …
There’s a Japanese donated weather station at the pass, but you can’t see it from the side I climbed.
It was hot and sunny. No water.
My Darn Toughs did all 5 days of the hiking. I switched to camp socks / shoes each evening.
It was a long, hot descent as well.
In fact, a pass this high first day is stupid. That’s not smart acclimatization. On the way down I resolve to NOT recommend these first 2 days to future hikers.
Here’s the first water I’d seen in hours. All water sources should be treated in these mountains unless you see it coming out of the mountain with your own eyes.
I was happy to reach the river. A German group had already claimed the best spot.
Further along I enjoyed a couple of pots of coffee.
This is a summer grazing settlement. Animals and their keepers will head down soon when snow threatens.
The next section climbing through a gorge was very entertaining. One of my favourite bits.
I finally camped at an open area on another creek near yet another guided hiking group.
Dinner in the dark was coucous, soup, raisins and peanuts. For Morocco I switched from my usual instant mashed potatoes base to couscous.
Unhappily I couldn’t find either camping fuel nor english language hiking guidebook for Toubkal in Marrakesh.
Lonely Planet said there were good gear shops in the trailhead town of Imlil (1740m).
My hostel in Marrakesh told me where to find the shared cabs to Imlil. But that turned out to be my greatest navigational challenge. Shared taxis sprawl across several streets. A tout finally took me to the right one.
In 2018 locals paid 35 Dirham to get the 64km to Imlil. Foreigners 50 Dirham. ($5.40) Cost seemed to be non-negotiable.
Vans don’t leave until full … plus 3-5 more people.
It’s less than 2 hours from the hot city to the much cooler High Atlas mountains.
Imlil is an impressive and popular tourist town.
Unfortunately the best gear shop in town — Atlas Extreme — was closed when I arrive. For an hour? A day? A Week? None of the neighbours seemed to know.
I’d wanted this guidebook for the trip. But Trailblazer doesn’t sell a digital version. I needed a paper copy.
I managed to get some used stove fuel and the map of the region instead at a tiny stall. The map ($10 plus) was fairly useless. It doesn’t show the circuit route. I did have the 5 page Lonely Planet description on my phone. And I did have little maps like this.
Not wanting to wait around, I got off on to the “trail” as quickly as possible.
departing Imlil
It was a hot, sunny day. I saw very few water sources.
Why was I walking on a paved road?
Only one stretch took me off-road and up through a village.
These mountains are massive.
I looked forwards to getting away from the heat.
On this excellent road I saw very few vehicles. A lot of sheep.
I walked up this valley past Berber villages Talate n’Chaoute, Tamguist and Ouaneskra.
Many locals ran out to greet me urging I stay in their homes or camp in their yards. I was unimpressed by most explaining that I planned to hike until 7pm.
Finally I passed a young man with a Canada cap. Stopping to chat with that group I met a guesthouse manager named Aziz. I liked him instantly. Everyone who passed by had a friendly word with him. Popular and charismatic.
I decided to “comp” at Gite Entre Les Vallees. Aziz was surprised I didn’t want instead to sleep in any of the 13 empty beds he had inside.
His location is ideal. A new bridge is being built across the river right next door. Soon he’ll have all the traffic.
Before dinner I went for a walk on the other side of the valley to try to see my route for the next day. It looked intimidating.
I still had no idea which of those passes was the one I’d need to cross.
I did meet some French hikers who’d come up with a rent-a-car to climb a peak on this side of the valley. Acclimatization. It was over 3000m.
The first time I went to take a photo of a Berber woman in the fields she called up to me NO PHOTOS. I respected that injunction for the rest of the trip.
When I think back on Laugevagur, my first thoughts are of the amazing waterfalls on the last day. Is there a more spectacular chain of falls anywhere else on Earth?
Happily, the weather was quite good when I woke early. Then a thunder storm rolled in and disappeared before I’d finished coffee.
Later I learned that Mark was already up high. Very nervous. There’s no place to hide from lightning in Iceland.
Here I was psyching up for the 900m climb to Fimmvörðuháls pass.
I knew it could be a long, tough day climbing to the icefields up on a high plateau. It’s the most glaciated section. But at least there are NO RIVER CROSSINGS!
The ascent was quite easy, as it turned out.
What’s this?
These were the first hikers I saw coming the other direction. Doing this with a day pack is quite popular.
Stunning views.
Recall the 2010 volcano that disrupted air traffic all over Europe?
This is it. You walk that massive lava flow.
Moodi and Magni (Thor’s sons) are two summit cones pushed up in 2010.
Magni
Everyone climbs Magni to enjoy the 360 degree view.
One worry late in the season is the snowfields turning to slush. Or water.
Happily, it was still good walking for me on July 29th.
Baldvinsskali is a small emergency hut en route. Hikers are allowed to escape the wind and elements if needed.
My only complaint about this hiking day is some road walking on the way down. I’d prefer they make a parallel walking trail.
How far to Skógar?
Waterfalls begin.
The trail follows the river down.
Every tourist to Iceland visits the falls at Skógar.
Made it!
About half way through the day I’d decided to bus back to Reykjavík, if I could. Mark was shooting photos at the base of the falls. I bought a ticket on his bus.
You could stay over. Skógar has a hostel and camping. As well as several restaurants.
Hoping to make a huge day, I was one of the first to leave camp. In the fog.
Bleak and flat to start.
Bridge! Thank God.
What an epic landscape!
Quite quickly you arrive at this pretty tourist area built 1995.
I had some hot brunch in the cook tent. Then moved on quickly. Some stop here to climb one or two summits as day hikes.
More bridges!
Interesting geology at every turn.
I was missing that brief bit of blue sky from yesterday. Everyone wore their rain gear today.
This is volcanic ash. Worse than sand, it gets into everything.
Oh my. This is amazing.
My first … tree !?
Trees are rare in Iceland. But there are plenty in Þórsmörk (Thorsmork)… Thor’s forrest.
(Iceland was actually 25% forested at one time. Timber cutting resulted in only about 1% remaining.)
When you finally arrive Þórsmörk you need choose between 3 separated campsites: Húsadalur, Langidalur or Básar.
Husadalur is biggest and has a natural hot springs.
But if you plan to continue hiking next day to Skógar, Básar is the best choice. It’s closest to the exit trail for next morning.
That’s where I headed.
Langidalur is pretty, however. The tenting looks superb.
I met again two Canadian women waiting for the bus. They’d had enough of rugged Laugevagur. Here’s the vista that dissuaded them from climbing up to the glaciers next day.
It does look intimidating.
If you do decide to linger at one of the 3 campsites, there’s even more day hiking here than at Landmannalaugar
Básar is sprawling. Busy with campers and day hikers.
I asked for advice on a quiet tent spot.
While I was eating dinner Mark from Boston arrived.
He and I were the only two from the start who had made it this far, this fast. We both planned to get an early start next day and finish to Skógar. It would be the toughest and best day of all.
Sharing a room in a hut with dozens of strangers, I snuck out early for coffee. And to kind of organize my pack out of the rain.
Somehow I left behind my river shoes. And a jar of peanut butter. ☹️
The weather was no better but I certainly wasn’t going to wait another day at Landmannalaugar. It was go … or catch the bus out.
UP past the fumaroles and quite quickly on to snowfields.
The trail is well marked … IF you have visibility.
In 2004 Ido Keinan, a 25-year-old hiker from Israel, got caught in a late June storm and died of exposure only 1km away from the hut in Hrafntinnusker. Wardens at Landmannalaugar warned him it was too dangerous.
He needed a GPS.
Glaciers cover 11% of Iceland. Lava fields and deserts about 60%. It’s easy to get lost.
Here’s that hut. The Alaskan cyclists were just leaving as I arrived.
It only sleeps 36 so best bring a tent if you want to stop here. If the weather is cooperating, push on and over to Álftavatn as I did.
Happily and surprisingly the sky cleared. It was windy. But gorgeous.
Iceland is a dream destination for photographers. There are so many weird things to see. And the light is unusual.
Of many bizarre and wonderful volcanic features, I liked the glassy black obsidian best. Many hikers add pieces to their backpack as souvenirs.
Of the plants, I liked tundra cotton best.
You cross the Torfajokull caldera, about 15km in diameter. It last erupted 1480. There’s a wide distribution of hot springs, mud pots and fumaroles.
In good weather you can see Álftavatn (“Swan Lake”) from quite a distance
Though it had rained all night off and on, it hadn’t rained hard. I was optimistic poking my head outside the tent in the morning.
No go.
Recommendation from the information office was that we should stay in camp another night. Forecast for the following day was “improving“.
Sigh …
A hiker recently died on this section during a big storm.
I did grab a cancellation for a spot in the 110 bed tourist hut operated by Ferdafelag Islands. (Others had booked at least 6 months in advance.)
In fact, I got in early and had my pick. Farthest from the door, against the wall. It cost $90 – no meals. The most expensive bunkbed of my life. Tenting is $20 / person.
Landmannalaugar tent city was packed.
Many — including me — heeded the advice that we should stay. As day hikers rolled in it got more and more crowded.
At the time I trusted the advice. They know a lot about alpine rescue here.
So … a lazy day to read my book. Take a nap. And, of course, do the rest of the local day hikes.
I made my own routes including parts of the Sulphur Wave trail (towards Brennisteinsalda). Wandered the Laugahraun lava fields. I climbed part way up Blue Peak (Bláhnjúkur).
The weather never really got any worse.
In fact, this was some of my best hiking of the trip.
I enjoyed another hot springs soak, of course.
And hung out in the cook tent as late as possible. Before climbing into my warm, comfortable bunkbed. Those out in tents were getting soaked.
I bought my fuel at Iceland Camping Equipment in Reykjavík. It’s VERY expensive.
Later I learned that every hostel and campsite has plenty of free fuel canisters left behind by foreign hikers who will soon fly out.
I enjoyed my last restaurant meal – traditional Icelandic meat soup.
There are a number of ways to get to Landmannalaugar. Reykavik Expeditions and TREX are the two biggest bus services.
I went early to catch the 4pm bus. … Last bus leaves at 1pm. Never believe anything you read on the internet.
click for bigger map
Next morning I was surprised to see young people from Alaska loading bikes. I’d not heard of people cycling Laugevagur. Turns out it’s a bad idea.
Reykjavík to Landmannalaugar is about 4 hours … if you don’t get stuck.
It would be FUN to drive your own rental monster truck.
Landmannalaugar is a sprawling mess of a campsite.
While the rest of the world was suffering a heat wave, Iceland has had the worst summer weather in recorded history (100 years).
Forecast was not good. We worried whether or not we’d be able to attempt the hike.
I put my Hubba up on a platform in case of flood during the night.
At the information office you can buy a crappy day hiking map for about $3.
Most recommended is the Suournamur loop (about 9km). I first took a detour up the Ljiotipollur ‘Ugly Puddle’ trail and found myself this lookout for lunch. Ljiotipollur is an explosion crater lake.
If you find any trail crowded in Iceland, you only need walk a few minutes on any side trail to feel like you have the island to yourself.
Suournamurtrail is gorgeous. It climbs up above the campsite.
… The route is long, rough and remote — the trailhead from Escalante, Utah takes 2 to 3 hours to get to during periods of good weather — and you still have to navigate 8-9 miles off-trail through fully-exposed sand and sage brush, across slickrock, and up and down rutted desert ravines.
Don’t be fooled by the name either. This long, exposed hike is not really through a canyon …
Quick Facts
Distance: 16-18 miles out-and-back (26-29 km)
Days Needed: 2 days
Peak Elevation: 4,466 ft.
Elevation Gain/Loss: 1,234 ft.
Best Travel Time: Late March to May and September to October
besthike.com 
