Category: cost

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scrambling Annapurna Base Camp, NEPAL

My old hiking buddy from South America 2004, Canadian Grant Assenheimer, just climbed down from the high Himalayas. He was on a “holiday” between assignments for Doctors Without Borders.

From Grant’s email:

Just got back from ABC and had a fantastic time. The ‘scare’ tactics used by the tour companies almost had me convinced that I should take a guide but it is TOTALLY NOT NECESSARY. Pass the word! Even if you are only moderately fit, you can easily do any of the teahouse trekking without a guide or porter.

grant.jpg
larger version – flickr

My favorite day was a scramble up from the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). Although most people stop at ABC, I rounded up a couple of New Yorkers and the 3 of us did this great day trip UP to the base camp for Tent Peak, one of the smaller ‘trekking peaks’ in the area. We started at 4100 m, went down and crossed the stone-covered glacier and then climbed to 4800 m via a steep morrain, icy river through a narrow gorge and finally a bit of a slog through steep high-altitude grassy slopes. This gave us GREAT views of the Annapurna Range, Machapuchre and some other ‘lesser’ 5 and 6 thousand meter peaks. The way UP was a bit challenging (ie. GREAT) because we didn’t see the PATH until we were already pretty much at the top. Lets just say that the way down was MUCH easier and didn’t involve navigating that icy river in that steep canyon or the 60 degree grassy slopes…

I also read Annapurna by Herzog during the hike. Wow. All I can say is that the Nepal of today is NOTHING like the Himalayas of the early mountaineers. I mean, they actually walked in from India. No apple pie or internet cafe waiting at 4000 m for them. What a story.

I started in Phedi, walked to ABC and then came out via Gorenpani and Poon hill. Truly spectacular and worth putting up with everyone else for the views. Definitely NOT a wilderness experience but if you go in without expecting one, its a great time.

nepal.jpg
larger version – flickr

Thanks Grant.

The Base Camp is the best side trip off the famed Annapurna Circuit.

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an elephant in the lobby

A regular occurrence at the Mfuwe Lodge in the South Luangwa National Park in Zambia where the lodge was unwittingly built on the Elephant’s traditional path through to some wild mango trees on the property.    The herd of a dozen or so elephants walk through the lodge’s reception area at least twice a day for about 4 weeks and then sporadically for about another 3 weeks to feed on the trees.   No incidents reported to date! 

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more photos – Elephants march through hotel lobby after it was built on their migration trail – Gossip Rocks

I’d love to spend a night there. ($300 / night during high season.)

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larger original – flickr

Thanks Rocco.

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hiking Hawaii on the cheap

I hiked Hawaii for the first time this past Spring. And it’s been much on my mind since.

When can I get back for more?

My friends Lexi and Kelly hiked in Kauai this past year too. They very much liked Polihale State Park:

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Also the Nualolo and Awaiawaipuhi trails:

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We agreed that Hawaii can be VERY inexpensive. You only need a tent, a rent-a-car and hiking packs. Beach campsites in Kauai cost $3-5 / night.

My inexpensive lunch with a view:

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  • related besthike posts tagged “Kauai”
  • related article: Hawaii on a Dime – NY Times
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    Grand Traverse, New Zealand for $100

    The Grand Traverse starts on the shores of Lake Wakitipu and stretches the length of the Greenstone and Routeburn Valleys, crossing the main divide twice in the process. The Greenstone and Routeburn Tracks have long been New Zealand’s most accessible and popular routes into the spectacular South Island high country.

    The Grand Traverse passes through two national parks: Fiordland and Mount Aspiring, and is part of Te Wahipounamu, South West New Zealand World Heritage Area. The pristine bush is home to a myriad of native birdlife: the Robin; Kea; Fantail; Parakeet; Bellbird; and Yellowhead, just to name a few. The sheer isolation and raw beauty of the Greenstone provide the perfect stage for the breathtaking scenery of the Routeburn. An unsurpassable combination to make a memorable walking experience. …

    Ultimate Hikes – Official Booking Site – Milford and Routeburn Tracks, Fiordland New Zealand – Ultimate Hikes

    =====

    Sure you could sign on with the tour (above). It costs between $1,600 and $2,500 New Zealand, depending on what optional extras one prefers. … Or you could do it independently like Scottwoz for about $100.

    Here’s his independent trip report:

    manmeetsworld1114389900dsc00868.jpg

    … Most of the scenery and landscape we covered was nothing short of spectacular and over the course of the five days we got to see a lot more than we should have, certainly more than the law of averages would normally allow. We hiked, on average, around six hours each day and covered an incredibly diverse terrain. …

    In the Thick of it … The Grand Traverse, New Zealand – trip report

    Sign me up.

    I’m planning a return to New Zealand in 2011.

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    hike the West Coast Trail Aug. 23rd

    From email:

    I have a two-person permit for the West Coast Trail for park entry from Port Renfrew on Saturday August 23rd, 2008. Unfortunately I have broken my ankle and will not be able to make the trip. I am also no longer able to obtain a refund as I am within the 21 day cancellation window. I thought that you might be connected to a network of folks who may be interested in using my reservation as I know they are difficult to come by. My cost was $300 US, but I would consider any reasonable offer. Thank you for your time.

    Nick Juhle

    734.717.7294

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    Alpacka Raft for hiking

    AT bought an Alpacka Raft.

    I’m jealous.

    alpackaraft-66-3.jpg

    Alpacka rafts are ultra-light inflatable rafts designed for wilderness boating. They are ightweight (about 2kg), very durable, repairable in the field, and suitable for running whitewater. In certain terrains (such as Lapland), packrafts tremendously expand your exploration options. The unique virtue of the packraft is its portability. Alpacka Raft is designed to be carried for extended distances, along with its propulsion system (usually collapsable paddles or lightweight oars).

    Wanderlust

    Ouch. $790 retail. I still can’t afford one.

    Alpacka Raft – official website

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    public transport to best hike trailheads

    Do you hate parking a rental car at the trailhead?

    glacier-wiki.jpgThanks JTownshend for pointing us to a website which clearly explains transportation options from my home town — Calgary, Alberta, Canada — to Waterton National Park on the U.S. border.

    Why is this such valuable information?

    Because that’s how you can most easily access our #6) best hike in the world: Glacier North Circle, Montana, USA, at least from Canada.

    If you do not have your own vehicle, here’s how to get to one of the trailheads from the Calgary airport:

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    Airport Shuttle Express – Calgary to Waterton

    (I’d skip the airport taxi, instead taking the public bus downtown for $2.50.)

    If you have not yet decided on what BIG hike to do this summer, consider the North Circle. It’s awesome.

    And — as a bonus — out of Calgary you could add our #5 best hike in the world — Sunshine to Assiniboine — in the Canadian Rockies. No personal vehicle needed for that adventure either, assuming you start and finish at the Sunshine Village trailhead.

    Another great option is our #2) best hike in the world — the John Muir Trail, in California.

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    Democracy comes to Bhutan

    Will this help open up the country to independent hikers?

    A political party seen as the more royalist of two groups seeking power swept the first parliamentary elections ever held in this secluded Himalayan kingdom, Bhutan’s election commissioner said Monday.

    The Bhutan Peace and Prosperity Party took 44 of the 47 seats in the new parliament, Election Commissioner Kunzang Wangdi said. …

    Turnout was slightly more than 79 percent of the 320,000 registered voters, Wangdi said. Even in remote corners of the largely rural country — in tiny hamlets where voting machines were delivered by yak — the election went smoothly, officials said. …

    The vote ended more than a century of absolute monarchy in the mountainous land long known as a quirky holdout from modernity, allowing television and the Internet only in 1999.

    The election came with a twist: It was the king, not the people, who pressed for democracy. …

    Royalist Party Wins Election in Bhutan – AP

    bhutan-vote.jpg
    photo Paula Bronstein/Getty Images – About.com

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    cost of trekking in Bhutan increasing

    Bad news for me.

    I’ve been waiting on Bhutan to open up for independent trekking. Planning on being one of the first to get a hiking permit.

    It was Rogier Gruys of BluePeak.net who first got me interested in hiking Bhutan.

    bhutan.jpg
    original – BluePeak on flickr – more photos

    Now Kira Salak penned a wonderful Snowman Trek trip report / article for National Geographic.

    A small excerpt:

    … Then I saw the tiny fortress, Lingshi Dzong, sitting on a hilltop before the great audience of the Himalaya. I stopped. For some reason I never quite understood, I sat down and wept. Maybe it had something to do with the starkness of the distances, with the dramatic vying of sunlight and storm. Or perhaps it was subtler, harder to explain. As if, in that ancient dzong—that speck of human proclamation sitting before the indifferent valleys and rise of the Himalaya—it was my own voice calling out into the void. I found myself making an appeal of grief about my brother, who’d had his own history, his stories. What would happen to them now? Where do they—where do any of our stories—go? …

    lingshi-dzong.jpg
    Lingshi Dzong – larger version – flickr – reddoggirl01

    read the entire lengthy, intense travelogue – Trekking Bhutan’s Higher Planes

    bhutan-map.jpg

    VISITING BHUTAN: Though there is no cap on the number of annual visitors, the Bhutanese government charges at least $200 a day for any in-country travel, and all tourists must book trips with one of 77 government-approved outfitters. Once you’re there, a guide accompanies you at all times.

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    National Geographic Bhutan Adventure Guide

    In her article, Kira Salak states that she’s heard price will double in the near future. Go from $200 to $400 / day.

    Leave a comment if you can confirm that rumour.

    (via The Adventure Blog)

    Related posts:

    trekking in Bhutan

    Snowman Trek, Bhutan

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    Parks Pass price hike 60% – How did that work out for them?

    atbpass07.jpg

    The demise of the beloved National Parks Pass cost the National Park Service more than $1.3 million last year, although agency officials expect revenues to rebound as folks grow accustomed to the America the Beautiful Pass.

    According to Jane Moore, the Park Service’s fee program manager, 2006 sales of the $50 National Parks Pass, good for entrance into all units of the national park system, generated $22.1 million for the agency. During 2007, the first year of the $80 America the Beautiful Pass, the agency took in $20.79 million, a 6 percent dip in revenues.

    Kurt Repanshek – National Parks Traveler

    Who could have predicted a 60% jump would generate less income?

    The full story is not in as yet, of course. I feel confident in calling the America the Beautiful Pass price a huge mistake.

    I used mine recently in California. Many people were needed to check my Pass, especially the date punch, and it slowed down traffic every time I drove out of the Park. In Canada we hang our Park pass from the rear view mirror, a better system, much easier to police.