self-guided hiking in Europe

Last summer in Europe I met many hikers on “self-guided” trips. That concept is very popular there, not so much anywhere else.

Here’s how it works.

You hire a company to do all your logistics in advance: transportation, accommodation, some meals, etc.

They choose a “best” itinerary for you. No need to plan.

One example from Bredson Outdoor Adventures:

We will be offering a special one-time, 10 night/11 day, self-guided departure from July 18 – 28, 2010 that melds the best of our two existing French Pyrenees self-guided hiking itineraries with an opportunity to view two legs of the Tour de France as it passes through the Pyrenees. During this anniversary year of the Tour de France you’ll have an opportunity to see history in the making as the Tour celebrates its 100th year in the Pyrenees. This trip is rated moderate to strenuous. …

Ten nights, half board (breakfast and dinner).

Minimum two star hotels and likely one three star hotel, all with private bath; friendly, traditional accommodations in beautiful settings with very good food

Local transport and baggage shuttle included.

Price: $2,300 USD per person double occupancy. Minimum 2 people. No single rooms available. Price reductions available for more than two people.

Deposit of $500/person by the beginning of December in order to secure hotels.

details

TOUR DE FRANCE  16

This sounds ideal for someone who’s always wanted to hike the Pyrenees. AND who loves the Tour.

Check the cost, however. About $200/day plus extras. Not everything is covered in your package.

You could do a similar trip independently cheaper, … if you’ve got the gumption and language skillz.

the sorry campgrounds of Hawaii

Over the past 3 years I’ve checked out or tented most of the official campgrounds on Kauai and Maui.

Despite being an outdoor tropical paradise, the campground situation on those 2 islands is a mess.

Your choices include National Campgrounds, State Campgrounds, County Campgrounds and a few private campgrounds.

Though inexpensive, the problem is actually getting a campsite permit for the State and County locations. You must find an administrative office and get there during office hours. You cannot simply show up at the campground at dusk.

Here are some signs I saw 2009 posted at the Waianapanapa State Park campground office on Maui.

no-permit-no-camping

notice

Looks like morale is low. Budget tight.

In fact, the County of Maui has closed campgrounds recently: Baldwin and Rainbow.

The cabins at Waianapanapa are oft called the the best lodging deal on Maui, but they get mixed reviews.

=== Best for tenting – Kauai or Maui?

Kuaia is generally better and more relaxed than Maui. When I camped without a permit in Kauai I was awoken by a friendly officer who informed me that I needed to go to an administrative office, … then charged me $5 cash instead of the usual $3 permit fee. I was very happy with that compromise.

But both islands could and should offer far better tenting than they do now.

=== Dislaimer:

Before you leave an angry comment, I did find a few good campgrounds. Mostly in the National Parks.

I stayed 2 nights free at the superb Kipahulu Campground on Maui. Loved it … despite the fact that drinking water is not available.

tent

Hosmer Grove I liked too. It’s also free. But why don’t they expand the tenting area?

The two wilderness campsites in the Halekala volcano are both great, especially Paluku.

tent-volcano

The Kokee State Park campground on Kauai is superb.

Kokee

I loved, too, the wilderness campground at the end of the Kalalau Trail on Kauai.

tent-on-beach

Most of the Kauai beach campgrounds, however, are filled with loud party animals. Locals use them as party sites 7 nights a week.

What Hawaii really needs is more private campgrounds. Camp Olowalu on Maui is the best private on the island. It would be great … except for the traffic roaring by all night long. And the big dogs running free that threatened while I was there.

=== Are things going to improve?

The Big Island finally has an online system for buying your Camping Permits. Nice.

Leave a comment if you have an opinion on Hawaiian campgrounds.

getting Nepal trekking permits

If you sign up with a trekking company, they take care of your permits.

But if you hike independently, you’ll need to get your own. The recommended way is to pick them up in Kathmandu in advance of your trek.

Back in 1997 it was a Royal pain to get a permit. Long line-ups. It took a half day minimum. We laughed when, in comparison, it was so easy to make a “donation” to the Maoists on the Annapurna Circuit. The rebels were so much more organized, friendly and efficient. Every donation was issued a receipt.

Times have changed. It’s easy to get your advance permits now in Kathmandu.

The document on the left is my entrance fee to the National Park on the Everest Trek. (US$13.50) Park entry fees vary depending on where you hike.

IMGA0734.JPG

On most of the major hikes, independent trekkers must get a TIMS. That’s the card on the right.

After trying and failing to introduce a trekking permit system that would force independent trekkers to take a licenced guide, the government compromised in 2008 by introducing the Trekking Information Management System (TIMS) …

Lonely Planet

It’s free. But you need bring 2 passport photos and a photocopy of your passport.

more information – timsnepal.com

Get your photo of Edmund and Tenzing near the Entry Permit desk.

IMGA0735.JPG

hiking the Tour de Mont Blanc

Carol gives a shout out for Alpine Exploratory, a company specializing in walking and trekking holidays in the Alps.

They did the “self-guided” version of the tour.

I think self-guided is a nice compromise. You don’t need to follow behind your group (like sheep). But you have experts who speak the local languages setting your itinerary for you.

+ Trek all the stages, completing the whole route
+ Start on any day you choose
+ Expert, unlimited advice on all the options

The Tour du Mont Blanc is a trek of superlatives: the most famous trek in Europe, forming a circuit of Western Europe’s highest mountain Mont Blanc (4,808m). Our circuit takes the standard 11 days, starting and finishing in the Chamonix valley. …

Tour du Mont Blanc – Self-guided trekking holiday

tourdumontblanc-map

What does all this cost?

14 nights, staying in:
3-star hotels (4)
2-star hotels (5)
Auberges (2)
Mountain huts (3)

Included
Accommodation and itinerary
Breakfasts and 6 evening meals
Expert and unlimited advice
Routecards, maps, local info
Emergency card, language card

Dates
July to mid-Sept 2010 …

Prices
£860 per person
(Single supplement £140)

£860 = US$1,410

===

UberFit is blogging their TMB from this past summer. Great photos. (Especially food pics.)

MBT Stage I – Chamonix to Les Contamines

MBT (Stage 2: Les Contamines to Bonhomme de la Croix)

TMB-guidebook

besthike TMB information page

need insurance to hike Europe?

What if this happened to you?

What would it cost?

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

The days of foreigners being “covered” for health costs in nations with socialized medicine are ending. In Switzerland you would pay the full cost of helicopter rescue if you are not a citizen.

Even in the developing world, hospital costs could crush you:

… Aussie tourist took an unlucky fall off a steep mountain track in India and ended up paralyzed in a hospital in New Delhi. And yes, you guessed it, this guy was traveling without any insurance, even though he was 64 years old and should have known better.

The result of this stumble is that his family back in Oz have maxed out their credit cards to pay the hospital bills and so far can’t afford to get him on a plane and home. …

A Traveling Without Insurance Nightmare For Aussie Man In India

You must buy travel insurance if hiking out-of-country. Most policies allow trekking, but do not cover climbing nor mountaineering. Double check your coverage.

====

On a related issue, posted in Gadling – Should a medical exam be required before a major trek?

Physicians and politicians in Australia are calling for mandatory physicals for any trekkers preparing to hike the Kokoda Track according to Aussie newspaper The Age. The Kokoda is a difficult and remote trail in Papua New Guinea, which has claimed the lives of three hikers this year alone. …

read more – Should a medical exam be required before a major trek?

My gut feeling is that regulation is going too far. The normal “release” form should be enough.

Adults must be responsible to make their own decisions in so far as adventure sport is concerned.

If a company voluntarily requires a medical, no problem. But a government should not impose this requirement.

Dolpo-Trek

For example, A Sierra Club Upper Dolpo Trek in Nepal requires a full medical and approval by the trip leader, but not because the government requires it.

… I’m personally shopping for travel insurance right now. Leave a comment if you have a recommendation.

Laugavegur Tour, Iceland

After many, many hours trying to find a good deal on airfare. And rent-a-car. I finally gave up on trying to hike the island nation this summer.

I’ll start months in advance next time. And travel off-season.

Here’s what I missed …

Landmannalaugar
Landmannalaugar

… Arguably the most famous hiking tour in Iceland is the Laugavegur Tour. Traditionally done north to south, the trek begins at a drop off point called Landmannalaugar. This tiny launch pad is a destination in its own right, in fact I would argue that it is the single most beautiful place I have ever been.

The area consists of one small hut (sleeps 80), a large campground for trekkers, a small building with sinks, toilets and showers, a covered eating area, an old school bus turned store, and the most coveted of all… a large natural hot spring that serves as swimming pool, meeting place, bath, warming room and of course bar. …

read the trip report on DolomiteSport – Iceland Laugavegur Tour (Aug. 2009)

Check out the PatitucciPhoto Iceland Trekking Photos for inspiration.

I’ve not found a good hiking guidebook for this trek, certainly one of the World’s best.

Mt Blanc to Matterhorn – day 3

Hiking trip report by site editor Rick McCharles. Day 3 of 7.

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

This turned out to be the most memorable day of many amazing days.

The weather was terrible. All day. Terrible.

The most remote and wild terrain of the entire route.

intensely glaciated
intensely glaciated
surreal glacial tarn
surreal glacial tarn

I was quite happy to finally arrive at Cabane de Prafleuri.

alpine hut
alpine hut

These refuges offer accommodation as well as food. Nice.

Rosti
Rosti

I got a chance to dry out. And warm up. Then walked on when the rain slowed.

Very impressive this day was Lac Dix, man made, created by one of the highest dams in the world.

Lac Dix (Lake 10)
Lac Dix (Lake 10)

The wildflowers and wildlife this day, were the best of the entire Haute Route. It’s an animal reserve.

wildflowers

marmot
marmot

In the early evening the weather worsened. Again.

I decided to stay at an alpine hut rather than try to climb out of the valley.

A long, impressive ridge would take me up to Cabine Dix.

Cabine-Dix

That photo I shot the following morning. The night before, in the rain and dark. I thought I’d never get there. It’s very high. Nearly 3000m. Higher than the pass I would cross next day.

Cost for dinner, bunk bed and breakfast was US$65.

The dinner was excellent. The bed very comfortable. The breakfast the worst I had in Europe.

I was the only Anglophone that night. Ordered about like a German soldier.

Overall, I’d rather sleep in my tent and cook my own food.

See the rest of my photos from day 3.

on to day 4

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

best way to cost a tent site?

$23 / night for a walk in campsite at Thomas Raddall campground in 2009. That’s $23 / person!

The same charge is levied for 6 adults with 3 tents. That’s less than $4 / person.

Nova Scotia Parks … FEES

click for official brochure (PDF)
click for official brochure (PDF)

I drove down the highway and stayed at the hostel. … The hostel that costs $25 / person. Hot shower. Kitchen. WiFi.

Charging $23 for a solo tenter is far too high, Nova Scotia.

… I like how tenting at a campground is billed in Europe. There’s are separate charges for each tent, each vehicle and each hiker. A very fair system, I find.

Leave a comment if you have an opinion.

camping, hiking, kayaking on the rise

On Paul Gilbert’s blog:

… In just the last year, the Northern Virginia Regional Park Authority has seen a jump in camping of 10 percent increase over last summer, and an astonishing 75 percent increase since 2004. …

kayaks

… Tom Doyle, Vice President of Information and Research at the National Sporting Good Association, says the increase in visitation is no fluke. “In our last national survey, we found that camping has dramatically increased, from 46 million campers (nationally) in 2005 to 49.4 million last summer.”

Those figures show no sign of slowing either. Camping, hiking, kayaking – all three areas remain on the rise according to Doyle. Meanwhile, tent sales nationally have been trending up the last few years.

“I fully expect the increase in camping to continue,” Doyle said. “People are foregoing expensive travel.” …

Regional Parks

(via TrailVoice on twitter)

future climbing trip to the Italian Dolomites?

Dreaming …

Via Ferrata are, in effect, a range of protected scrambling routes, comprised of skilfully installed fixed cables, ladders and gorge-spanning bridges, which assist ascents to high levels, from which you walk on, often to a nearby rifugio, or back to the starting point via a path.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

I wouldn’t want a guided trip. But one instructional session would be valuable.

The gear costs about $200. Helmet, and carabiners. Or you can rent it for about $10 / day.

via-ferrata-gear

Best timing would be the first 3wks of July. Or September.

There are plenty of good guidebooks.