trek Easter Island

Easter Island truly is in the middle of nowhere.

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Everyone has heard of the monolithic human figures carved from rock called Moai.

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But I also want to hike Rano Kau in Rapa Nui National Park world heritage site.

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David Stanley, author of Moon Handbooks South Pacific (Moon Handbooks), says Easter Island is the Pacific Island that “offers most to the hiker“. That’s surprising since the island is only 11km wide, 23km long!

I will get there. Sooner or later.

hairy, scary road in Norway

On your way to Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen) …

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larger size – flickr – larskflem

… and the Kjeragbolten …

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larger size – flickr – 7ty9

you can take in one of the world’s most dramatic roadways:

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This is the Lysebotn Road in Lysefjord, Norway – complete with 27 switchbacks and a 1.1 kilometer long tunnel at the bottom, also with three switchbacks inside. Let one driver tell the story (courtesy Stefan Jonsson):

“The first half of this road was nothing too special, but then… then came the fun part! The last 30 km (18 miles) to Lysebotn were the most fun I have ever driven! This part of the road was a true roller-coaster! It was narrow but with a perfect surface, and you just sat there on the bike with a big smile on your face as you pushed on for some really active driving. Not a straight part of the road as far as you could see. It was up and down and left and right all the time! The road ends with a 27 hairpin serpentine road taking you from 1000 meters (3280 ft) above sea level down to Lysebotn and the Lysefjord. At the end of the serpentine road you go through a tunnel that screws itself 340 degrees through the mountain and as you come out of it (slightly dizzy) you have Lysebotn in front of you. If you ride a motorcycle in Norway, then this road is something you simply can not afford to miss!”

via Dark Roasted Blend

related post: sphincter-tightening fjord vistas in Norway

superb West Coast Trail trip report

Photographer Hank Leukart penned one of the best trip reports I’ve yet seen on our #1 hike in the world

WEST COAST TRAIL, Vancouver Island, British Columbia — After our extraordinary Alaskan backpacking experience this past August, my brother and I had become addicted. For months following the excursion, we daydreamed, researched, and gushed about the possibilities for our next adventure. We considered a number of tempting options, including a Grand Canyon rim-to-rim-to-rim hike, a journey along the pristine Lost Coast of California, and even a long trek through remote Patagonia. But then, we read about the Graveyard of the Pacific. …

… When we arrived at the trailhead, Parks Canada gave us and the rest of the “West Coast Trail Class of June 2, 2008” a short presentation about the hike’s dangers. We were warned to use tide tables to time our coastal hiking and avoid being trapped by dangerous swells; we learned that if a helicopter flew overhead dropping tsunami warnings in bottles (seriously!), we would need to immediately drop our backpacks and sprint up towering ladder networks to avoid being swallowed by the sea; we were told to use the cable cars whenever possible to perform river crossings, which made us laugh due to “our extensive river crossing experience”; and we were urged, once again, never to run from a bear (or a wolf or a cougar).

After the park ranger sufficiently scared us, she sold us our trail permits. We donned our 50-pound backpacks (we were arguably overprepared for this trip, with more than two extra days of food and of course, the requisite board games we always take on backpacking trips) and stepped onto the ferry that took us to the beginning of our adventure. …

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read the rest on Without BaggageBrothers tackle dangerous surge channels on the West Coast Trail.

The annotated photos are spectacular!

West Coast Trail: Days 1 – 3 Photography.
West Coast Trail: Days 4 – 5 Photography.
West Coast Trail: Days 6 – 8 Photography.

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Congratulations to Hank and his brother. That was some adventure!

I instantly subscribed to Without Baggage. And recommend you do too.

Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Peru

When I was there, I was immensely reminded of the Mediterranean.

I’m thinking of South America now as it’s Spring in Patagonia.

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Lake Titicaca south of Yampupata

Gorgeous.

The best trip report is found on Photodiary of a Nomad:

Our walk started from the Hostal Imperio del Sol, our accommodation on the island with views across the Isla de la Luna to the snow-capped 6000m plus mountains of the Cordillera Real. This magnificent range, crowned by the 6429m peak of Cerro Jankhouma, was a constant companion on our wanderings up and down the island. …

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read more – Lake Titicaca and the Isla del Sol

Isla del Sol is one of our best hikes in South America.

trek Bahia Lapataia – Tierra del Fuego

A coastal walk between two beautiful bays on the southern shore of the Land of Fire, one of the remotest regions on earth.

Here’s a good trip report from Khan on one of the southernmost hikes in the world:

Tierra del Fuego, the Land of Fire, is an island divided between Chile and Argentina at the southern tip of South America. Ushuaia, on the south coast of the island overlooking the Beagle Channel, is the base for all the best hiking on the island. It bills itself as la Ciudad del Fin del Mundo – the City at the End of World. Indeed, there is nothing below this windswept place but 650 miles of treacherous southern seas and the icy continent of Antarctica.

Just to the west of Ushuaia is Parque Nacional de Tierra del Fuego. Rich in forest, lakes and jagged mountains, it is a beautiful but tough landscape, tormented by unpredictable weather. When we hiked here in March we found it surprisingly warm – even turning to ‘t-shirt’ weather after the bitter cold of early morning. But we were lucky. In January, at the height of the southern summer, it had been cold and even snowed for several days.

This hike follows the Senda Costera – Coastal Path – from Bahia (bay) Ensenada to Bahia Lapataia, with beautiful views over the Beagle Channel. …

continue reading – Bahia Lapataia – Tierra del Fuego – Hiking Trailer

I’ve been down as far as Ushuaia. Bleak and beautiful.

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larger version – flickr – lrargerich

There is another strange, confusing photo of the region on flickr. Check it out.

hiking Hawaii on the cheap

I hiked Hawaii for the first time this past Spring. And it’s been much on my mind since.

When can I get back for more?

My friends Lexi and Kelly hiked in Kauai this past year too. They very much liked Polihale State Park:

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Also the Nualolo and Awaiawaipuhi trails:

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We agreed that Hawaii can be VERY inexpensive. You only need a tent, a rent-a-car and hiking packs. Beach campsites in Kauai cost $3-5 / night.

My inexpensive lunch with a view:

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  • related besthike posts tagged “Kauai”
  • related article: Hawaii on a Dime – NY Times
  • “extraordinary year” for Canadian Parks

    Kurt Repanshek from the States reports:

    … Imagine if the National Parks Conservation Association, or the Sierra Club, or The Wilderness Society reported that the U.S. government deserved credit for an “extraordinary year” in protecting the National Park System. That would be some news, wouldn’t it?

    Well, that’s not the case. However, the Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society did have that to say about the Canadian government. In looking back over the past 12 months (from July 2007 to July 2008), CPAWS reports that “Canada’s federal and provincial governments deserve credit for ‘an extraordinary year’ of progress in protecting the country’s parks and wilderness areas.”

    Why the praise? Well, there are several reasons. …

    National Parks Traveler

    Much more is left to preserve in Canada than the U.S.A.

    I wish the B.C. and / or Canadian Government would do something to protect the coastline of Nootka Island.

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    Nootka Trail Hiking Adventure – Paul Talbot – Club Tread

    trail run the West Coast Trail

    Wanetta Beal just ran the West Coast Trail in 19 hours and 13 minutes. … As far as she and Parks Canada staff know, she’s the first woman to do the 75-kilometre route in less than 24 hours — instead of the usual six days.

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    “I knocked it off my list of things to do in my thirties,” said Beal, 35, of Whiskey Creek. “I feel like if I can do this, I can do anything.”

    (via FART)

    The men’s record is Frank Wolf and Kevin Vallely of North Vancouver, 10 hours and 13 minutes. “They set it on 24 July 1997, 10 days after finishing first and second in the North Vancouver Kneeknacker Race. The time measurement is from Bamfield Trailhead to the end of the trail on the west shore of the Gordon River. It includes all stopping time, including the wait for the Nitinat Ferry. This is a good and fair convention for measuring the time of future runs.“

    meeting a bear on the Juan de Fuca Trail

    In preparation for the longer West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island, Matt made a 2-day dash on the adjacent Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. That’s 47km (29mi) of tough hiking.

    One part of his trip report struck home:

    …on the trail around 9:00. Sombrio River was quite low, so I opted to wade through it rather than trek up to the suspension bridge. The sun was shining, so I wasn’t too worried about wet feet. After a bit more beach walking, my spidey-sense was tingling. In a field of grey boulders, I saw one furry black boulder that looked out of place. Sure enough, a small bear was eating something, probably a dead seal. Luckily, the tide was out, so I was able to give him a wide berth. I had a chat with him on the way past, and we came to an understanding. I wouldn’t eat his dead seal, and he wouldn’t eat me.

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    read the entire trip report with more photos

    On my only hike on the JdF I had an encounter, as well. A small black bear decided to climb a tall tree in the middle of the campground. I was the only camper.

    A quick exit was prudent.

    There are a lot of bears in that part of the world.

    I just subscribed to Matt’s blog: Take a Load Off – Lightweight Backpacking

    hike the Rubicon Trail, Lake Tahoe

    … NOT to be confused with the Rubicon four-by-four trail.

    We were looking for a good trail run close to Squaw Valley. A local Adventure Racer, Todd Jackson, sent us to cross the Rubicon.

    Good call.

    In the 1880s, a Sacramento newsman compared Lake Tahoe’s sapphire depths to bluing solution, so astonishing was the color. Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) said Lake Tahoe’s air was pure enough for angels. Clear sky and water still startle the senses here, especially when you spend the day close to shore on the 6 1/2-mile Rubicon Trail. …

    Lake Tahoe trail casts a spell – Laura Read

    It was crowded with families, hikers, leashed dogs. But gorgeous.

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    vista from high on the trail

    I loved it.

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    Adventure Racers cooling off after the run

    Kevin Gong has an excellent trip report with photos: Rubicon Trail, D.L. Bliss State Park and Emerald Bay State Park