the sorry campgrounds of Hawaii

Over the past 3 years I’ve checked out or tented most of the official campgrounds on Kauai and Maui.

Despite being an outdoor tropical paradise, the campground situation on those 2 islands is a mess.

Your choices include National Campgrounds, State Campgrounds, County Campgrounds and a few private campgrounds.

Though inexpensive, the problem is actually getting a campsite permit for the State and County locations. You must find an administrative office and get there during office hours. You cannot simply show up at the campground at dusk.

Here are some signs I saw 2009 posted at the Waianapanapa State Park campground office on Maui.

no-permit-no-camping

notice

Looks like morale is low. Budget tight.

In fact, the County of Maui has closed campgrounds recently: Baldwin and Rainbow.

The cabins at Waianapanapa are oft called the the best lodging deal on Maui, but they get mixed reviews.

=== Best for tenting – Kauai or Maui?

Kuaia is generally better and more relaxed than Maui. When I camped without a permit in Kauai I was awoken by a friendly officer who informed me that I needed to go to an administrative office, … then charged me $5 cash instead of the usual $3 permit fee. I was very happy with that compromise.

But both islands could and should offer far better tenting than they do now.

=== Dislaimer:

Before you leave an angry comment, I did find a few good campgrounds. Mostly in the National Parks.

I stayed 2 nights free at the superb Kipahulu Campground on Maui. Loved it … despite the fact that drinking water is not available.

tent

Hosmer Grove I liked too. It’s also free. But why don’t they expand the tenting area?

The two wilderness campsites in the Halekala volcano are both great, especially Paluku.

tent-volcano

The Kokee State Park campground on Kauai is superb.

Kokee

I loved, too, the wilderness campground at the end of the Kalalau Trail on Kauai.

tent-on-beach

Most of the Kauai beach campgrounds, however, are filled with loud party animals. Locals use them as party sites 7 nights a week.

What Hawaii really needs is more private campgrounds. Camp Olowalu on Maui is the best private on the island. It would be great … except for the traffic roaring by all night long. And the big dogs running free that threatened while I was there.

=== Are things going to improve?

The Big Island finally has an online system for buying your Camping Permits. Nice.

Leave a comment if you have an opinion on Hawaiian campgrounds.

best of the Bibbulmun Track, Australia

The Bibbulmun Track is a long distance walk trail in Western Australia, … almost 1000 km long. The name comes from the Bibbulmun, or Noongar people, Indigenous Australians from the Perth area.

Dave Tomlinson gives some tips on best sections, water, fuel and tenting vs shelters:

Our Hiking Blog – Bibbulmun Track – Advice and tips on this long distance hike

Bibbulmun

more photos tagged “Bibbulmun”

Waianapanapa State Park, Maui

There are a number of day hikes, short and long, out of uber popular Waiʻanapanapa State Park.

The park includes … seabird colonies, anchialine pools, native hala (Pandanus tectorius) forest, caves, heiau (religious temple), a natural arch, sea stacks, blowholes and a small black sand beach….

Waianapanapa-map

You can walk to Hana (3mi) along the coast, if you like. I walked most of that, often closer to the water than the official trail. Some call this the WAI’ANAPANAPA COASTAL TRAIL.

A few pics:

Wainapanapa-Park

rocky-shore-cliffs

chair-on-shoreline

Close to the parking lot, the most popular attraction is this black sand beach.

black-sand-beach

All very pretty. Especially the contrasting bright green vegetation against dark black lava stone.

rocky-islet

see the rest of my photos

Waimoku Falls / Pipiwai Trail, Maui

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

Most tourists in Maui drive a rent-a-car to Kipahulu Visitors Center in Haleakala National Park, the end of the famed Road to Hana.

The main attraction are the so called “Seven Sacred Pools“, a name invented by some overzealous tourism marketer. In reality, the ʻOheʻo Gulch has dozens of pools and a number of waterfalls, a few very welcoming of swimmers.

Oheo-Gulch-pools

Welcoming if you’re not scared off the warning signs posted everywhere.

warning-sign

warning-sign-2

I spent only a few minutes at the pools, instead quickly beginning the climb up Pipiwai Trail. I knew it would be fantastic as Trailspotting calls it their “favorite hike on Maui”:

Distance: 4 miles
Type: Out & Back
Difficulty: Medium
Elevation gain: 900ft (from 200 – 1,200ft)

Beginning at the rugged and remote eastern Maui coastline follow the Pipiwai stream inland and you’ll soon be surrounded by dense jungle, heading towards a series of waterfalls each increasingly more impressive than the last. En route you’ll cross bridges and streams, and negotiate an unforgettable boardwalk journey through a dense bamboo forest that towers so far above your head that daylight struggles to reach you. And since the Hawaiian islands are some of the wettest places on earth, you’re sure to be impressed with the towering 400 foot wall of water at the end of the trail that is Waimoku Falls. …

Pipiwai Waterfalls & Bamboo Trail

The bamboo was the highlight for me, too.

bamboo-forest

Actually, this kind of bamboo is one of those dread invasive species. But it’s an invasive species I love. I’m an invasive species, myself.

You’ll be warned about mosquitos. I never saw even one during 2wks on Maui in October.

Pipiwai gets better and better the closer you get to Waimoku Falls.

Waimoku-Falls

Click that last photo to see a larger version of a true Hawaiian paradise.

The other highlight of this hike for me was tenting at Kipahulu Campground right at the trailhead.

campsite

Waimoku Falls Pipiwai Trail map

I spent two nights. It’s free after you pay for your National Parks pass. Authorities are frantically improving the visitor center right now. I expect the primitive campground will be improved, as well.

Walking the shoreline here is highly recommended. A half mile stretch is called the KAHAKAI TRAIL.

Kipahulu-campground

See all my photos from Pipiwai, one of the very best hikes in the world.

Or, better, check out Stuart’s photos – Trailspotting: Hawaii, Maui: Pipiwai Waterfalls. Click on his trail map for a larger view.

Pipiwai-trail

Leave a comment if you’ve done Pipiwai and have something to add.

Hoapili Trail, Maui

Trip Report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.

I first heard of this hike on Trailspotting.

… the Hoapili Trail will take you across … 200 year old lava beds to a secluded beach.

From the trailhead hike through patches of kiawe woodland and beaches scattered with sand and white coral, contrasting starkly with the black of the lava outcroppings. Eventually and suddenly the vegetation stops – a telling sign that you’re on the newest of the lava beds – and take a sharp left turn through a gate before proceeding on through fields of barren lava formations. …

I was intrigued.

Hoapili-coastline

You can see how far the lava had to flow from the volcano to the sea.

lava-volcano

This is part of what is called the Hawaiian “King’s Highway”.

Kings-highway

Past the beach I saw a four-wheel drive truck and people camping. One reference tells that wild camping is allowed there. Tempting.

Instead I only enjoyed a short break on the log swing at Keoneoio Beach.

Rick-log-swing

All the Maui hiking guidebooks include Hoapili. But many references wrongly calculate the distance from La Perouse Bay to Kanaio Beach as 5.5 miles. It’s about 2mi (3.2km) one way.

I’ll not include Hoapili on our list of the best hikes in the world. I liked it. But many would find it too hot, too desolate. The jagged lava is tought on the feet, as well.

There’s definitely no water or other facilities. If you are hiking the Hoapili, you must be self-sufficient. Like this guy.

feral-goat

more photos from this hike

Hoapili-map

new thru hike in Australia

… We hope to develop a walking trail network of some 2,000 kilometres (about 1,250 miles), which will pass along the Eastern Cape York Peninsula.

Cape-York-map

This is one of the last pristine tropical regions in the world. It is wild, beautiful and presently largely trackless and inaccessible. The coast has many stunning tropical beaches lapped by the azure blue Coral Sea, with the Great Barrier Reef running the closest it gets to the Queensland Coastline. ….

You can help with this project by filling out a short, fairly painless survey linked from the home page. (click the survey START button)

Eventually the network of trails could be connected into one of the greatest long hikes anywhere.

Dreaming-Trails

DreamingTrails.com

hiking blog – Madeira Walking

Madeira is an archipelago in the Atlantic, an Autonomous region of Portugal. Madeira Island and Porto Santo Island are the only inhabited islands.

madeira_map

I’ve just subscribed to Madeira Walking, a quality, impressive site.

The unique attraction of this area are Levada, irrigation channels that double as ideal hiking trails.

450px-Levada

Nature Meetings, partners on this site, offers guided half and full day Levada walks or “dramatic Mountain walks”.

Madeira-Walking

home page – Madeira Walking

Lahaina Pali Trail, Maui

Though it needs more, this Hawaiian Island has only one roadway tunnel.

only tunnel in Maui

Before the tunnel was built, an impassible headland forced travelers to either swim or climb over. The 5.5mi Lahaina Pali Trail bypass was built between 1830 and 1850.

Lahaina Pali Trail, Maui

Though the trail is well signed, I managed to get lost within the first 10min, scrambling the wrong ridge until I intersected the trail. The vegetation is both itchy and thorny!

As my guidebook recommended, I climbed only high enough to get a good view of the only windmills on Maui. Then backtracked.

windmills, Maui

Not one of the best hikes in the world, but I enjoyed the vistas during the late afternoon light, returning to my vehicle just in time for sunset.

more photos

new – Canary Island hiking blog

AndreaMy name is Andrea. I was born and raised in Leicestershire in the U.K. In 1994 I drove 15,000 miles around the United States and on returning home, couldn´t seem to settle back into the old routine. So, I uprooted myself from there to come and work ´for the summer´ on the island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. Well, that was twelve years ago now. Since being here, I have realised that there is definately more on offer on this volcanic island than just beaches and nightlife and so, armed with my passion for walking, I have decided to share these thoughts and ideas with you along with alternative outdoor pursuit options. ..

So, what´s this blog about?

It is a blog aimed to show people a different way of exploring the island by getting away from the typical tourist bus tours where you find that you only have a limited time to discover the places that you are shown. Initially, I will cover walking tours showing parts of this impressive island that can´t be viewed from a car or bus window. I then aim to show the numerous alternative outdoor pursuits available here ranging from kayaking, diving, mountain biking, surfing and horse riding, to name a few. …

about the Outdoor Lanzarote blog

Quality of the posts is good. Click on either of the two images to see a sample.

Mancha Blanca – Caldera Blanca
Mancha Blanca – Caldera Blanca
Las Casitas de Femés – Femés
Las Casitas de Femés – Femés

Outdoor Lanzarote ….a walk on the wild side

I’ve subscribed by RSS to this site. The Canary Islands are high on my personal list of future hiking destinations.