bushwhacking Olympic Peninsula, Washington

On the Freezer Bag Cooking blog I learned of an amazing hiker named Mike.

Mike does trips I don’t even want to dream of. The thought of fording the Queets River in the Olympics multiple times in a day, to find an elusive waterfall is something I don’t think I will ever be capable of!

Mikes spent 31 days in 2004 crisscrossing rugged, remote wilderness, often solo, often off trail.

He’s put up an excellent new website called Mike’s Rain Forest Treks.

The first of a series of planned photo trip reports is already posted. Detailed and inspiring.

My big-picture plan for the next month will take me on a disjointed spiral around the west side of Olympic National Park’s million-acre wilderness. My route is varied enough to explore all the major ecosystems of the world’s most ecologically and geologically diverse slice of land.

Starting out in typical northwest spruce and fir forests, I will see the park’s high alpine playgrounds, its extensive coastline beaches, its uncannily immense glaciers, and it’s most prized treasure… the finest remnants of old-growth temperate rainforests left in the world.

The route has been split into three manageable “legs,” ending with a 16-day mega-trek through the most remote and untouched off-trail wilderness in the entire park. These first two legs (each a week-long trip) will be a fantastic “warm-up,” a way to strengthen my legs and awaken my soul before testing my limits.

2004 Olympic Solo Trip

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daunting remote trails in Fiordland, New Zealand

Fiordland (like S.W. Tasmania and Patagonia) on the S.E. corner of the South Island is astonishingly unvisited. For good reason.

200px-new_zealand_map.gifFiordland National Park, which has an area of 12,120 square kilometres, making it the largest national park in New Zealand and one of the larger parks in the world. Most of Fiordland is dominated by the Southern Alps and its ocean-flooded, steep western valleys. Situated within Fiordland are Browne Falls and Sutherland Falls, which rank among the tallest waterfalls in the world.

The name “Fiordland” comes from the now-common variant of the Norwegian word “fjord”. Fiordland features a number of fiords often misnamed sounds, of which Milford Sound is the most famous, though Doubtful Sound is even larger and has more and longer branches.

Fiordland has few human inhabitants and is the least-populated area of New Zealand … and many areas almost inaccessible except by boat or air. Te Anau township, the only larger settlement close by, has under 2,000 permanent habitants, though it boasts around 3,000 tourist beds.

Fiordland – Wikipedia

This region is ideal for those who are looking for a real trekking challenge. (The sandflies alone were enough to drive me off.)

An article called Hidden Valleys of Fiordland, a bushwhack to George Sound, may be enough to scare you off, as well:

It all began on the shores of Lake Te Anau at a pessimistic looking information sign. The town of Te Anau is shown to sit in a rain shadow, with an average rainfall exceeding that of the legendary Milford Sound. We then knew the full extent of what to expect, as one trip member, John, put it “This is possibly the wettest trip we could attempt, except maybe a traverse of the lake bed!

Hidden Valleys of Fiordland

Fiordland is drenched. Even the well established hikes (Hollyford, Kepler, Routeburn, Milford, etc.) are challenging in the rain.

Choose a more remote track — Doubtful Sound and Dusky Sound would be our first choices — and you are up for a memorable trip.

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Te Anau area hikes – Dept. of Conservation

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Doubtful Sound – original – flickr

See our entire list of the best hikes in New Zealand.

best section of the Colorado Trail?

Running 479mi from Denver to Durango, the Colorado Trail is a classic. It shares about 200mi with the CDT.

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planning – ColoradoTrail.org

For those of us who do not have a long month, what’s the best section?

Outdoor Magazine recommends:

… concentrate your efforts during a ten-day romp along a remote 95-mile ribbon that runs just east of San Luis Peak to Molas Pass, in the southwestern part of the state.

Start at Spring Creek Pass, 33 miles northwest of Creede amid the 13,000-foot-plus San Juan Mountains. Plan on grinding up to 15 miles a day along airy ridges, down steep gorges, and up winding switchbacks.

You’ll spend four days cruising above tree line, at nearly 12,000 feet, and the closest you’ll come to a town (Lake City) is about 17 miles, which means tackling thousands of vertical feet each day with a heavy pack.

Take a break and frolic in Snow Mesa, a flat, grassy expanse so huge it takes a few hours to cross.

Outdoor

Sounds great. We’ve added San Luis Pass to Molas Pass to our list of the best hikes of the world.

ColoradoTrail.org calls it Section 6 – San Luis Pass to Molas Pass (advanced difficulty).

Next, what’s the best guidebook?

The Official Guidebook (Colorado Mountain Club Guidebooks)

Colorado Trail: The Official Guidebook (Colorado Mountain Club Guidebooks)

Get packing!

great photos – Mono Andes

Mono Andes from Concepción, Chile is a big time outdoors photographer on flickr.

Here are just a few of his great photos.

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Volcano Villarrica

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Descanso

more Mono Andes HIGHLIGHT photos – flickr

He’s using every feature of flickr, including geotagging.

Here’s the map of his Araucanía photo set:

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source – flickr

You can see those photos and interact with the map on his Andes – Araucanía set page.

A couple more, to inspire a trip to Chile.

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source

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source

controversial new bridge to Machu Picchu

A village near Peru‘s Machu Picchu has built a bridge over a turbulent river to open another route for backpackers trekking to the lofty Inca ruins.

The bridge was inaugurated Saturday in the village of Santa Teresa despite the objections of government cultural experts, who fear increased tourism could threaten the UNESCO World Heritage site as hostels and restaurants spring up to serve travelers.

But authorities in Santa Teresa, less than 10 miles from Machu Picchu, are hoping the bridge over the Vilcanota River will help the local economy get a piece of the tourism pie. …

The new route, involving a daylong bus ride through twisting dirt roads and a seven-mile hike along railroad tracks, targets thrifty backpackers who want to avoid the pricey train tickets.

An average of 2,000 tourists a day visit Machu Picchu, with a maximum set at 2,500. Some archaeologists say the limit should be much lower, arguing that large numbers of visitors trekking over the stone steps will eventually damage the ruins.

White Rock Reviewer

I have mixed feelings. I too worry about degrading the Machu Picchu experience. On the other hand, another option for hikers is a good thing.

Leave a comment if you know more about the new bridge.

The nearest current hike to Santa Teresa is what we call the Salcantay Trek. (information page)

Canada’s best outdoor towns

Chris Benway runs Cafe Andino, the hub of hiking activities in Huaraz, Peru. And he’s the man behind La Cima Logistics, the recommended top end guiding company in town.

I always recall Chris telling me that … if he had not settled in Huaraz, he would have chosen Canmore, Alberta.

… published in Explore, March 2007. The winners:

Rossland, BC
Gold River, BC
Jasper, AB
Dauphin, MB
Parry Sound, ON
Whitehorse, YT
Baie-Saint-Paul, PQ
Sussex, NB
Cornerbrook, NL
Lunenburg, NS

In my opinion, missing are: Canmore AB, Squamish BC, and Tofino/Ucluelet BC. These are all famous for their outdoor activities.

Bluepeak: Canada’s best outdoor towns

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Canmore – by ginnia

Canmore – Wikipedia

USA loses nuclear material in the Himalayas 1965

This is one of the great stories of the outdoors. And I had never heard of it until today via The Piton.

An award winning new book — An Eye at the Top of the World — details a CIA operation to plant a listening device atop Nandi Devi, one of the highest peaks in the world, in 1965.

That mission was a failure. The device and its nuclear core disappeared!

To get a quick overview of the story, check the trailer for a movie directed by Robert Schaller.

If that peaks your interest, the Seattle Post-Intelligencer published an excellent article written by CAROL SMITH: Spy Robert Schaller’s life of secrecy, betrayal and regrets.

Seattle PI also posted an excellent, short audio interview and slide show with Schaller.

I think I need to read the book. This is fascinating.

The Terrifying Legacy of the Cold War's Most Daring C.I.A. Operation

An Eye at the Top of the World: The Terrifying Legacy of the Cold War’s Most Daring C.I.A. Operation

Also recommended is Spies in the Himalayas: Secret Missions and Perilous Climbs by Kohli & Conboy. (2003)

3300 miles around the Alps

We recently posted Andrew Skurka’s audacious 7000mi Great Western Loop. I doubt there are any unbelievers.

In Europe Judy Armstrong has already begun a 3300mi quest she’s calling the Alpine Challenge, the first to attempt to circumambulate the Alps.

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Judy has a fantastic website — AlpineChallenge.info posted in four languages!

Check the brilliant way she shows the map of her intended route.

And her detailed gear list: 7.13kg (15lb 11oz).

You look terrifically well organized Judy. Good luck!

with kids on the Routeburn Track, New Zealand

Margaret Pincus posted an entertaining trip report on the Australian website.

We are on day two of New Zealand’s spectacular Routeburn Track, which wanders between the Mt Aspiring and Fjordland national parks in NZ’s Southern Alps through some of the most inspiring wilderness left on earth.

The walk is universally regarded as one of the 10 best in the world. For three days we will hike hut to hut between the Holyford and Dart valleys, through high mountain peaks and deep mossy valleys and alpine lakes.

Not universally regarded, actually. (see our list of the top 10 hikes in the world). But we won’t protest too loudly. Routeburn is fantastic. And much less expensive than the Milford Track.

We (me, my husband, our four children, and one aunty) set off in brilliant sunshine. We start slowly, like a family of snails creeping up the path, stopping every 10 minutes to retie shoes and adjust backpacks.

The Australian

Hiking with children can be challenging. Especially when Margaret’s family ran out of food!

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Routeburn Valley, by Justin de Booy (Garion88) – flickr

more Routeburn photos – flickr

photo – atop Kilimanjaro

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original, uploaded by Bzzzt.

Machame route from Moshi to Uhuru peak. Check out Ringo Expeditions and talk to Adam there if you want a good guide and crew.

more Kili photos – flickr – posted by Christian LøverÃ¥s, Norway.