alternative trails to Machu Picchu

Not a bad article on Inca Trail Trek to Machu Pichu in the New York Times:

As it runs through craggy mountain passes and ancient Incan ruins, the fabled Inca Trail in Peru reveals surprise after surprise to travelers hiking its length to the lost city of Machu Picchu. But here’s a new one: To set foot on that fabled Andean footpath, you’ve first got to fight through a three-month waiting list. …

A few years ago, the Inca Trail was becoming the Long Island Expressway of central Peru, brimming with trash, tourists and growing concerns about overuse. So the Peruvian government began enforcing strict limits on the number of people allowed on the trail. Right now, only 500 people a day may enter — about 200 tourists and 300 guides and porters.

And so, “alternative” Inca Trails are gaining popularity with travelers unable or unwilling to book a slot three to six months in advance. These treks can be booked a day or two in advance and can cost less than half as much as a hike on the Inca Trail.

Taking the Back Roads to Machu Picchu – New York Times

We agree that most serious hikers would prefer one of the alternatives to the Inca Trail.

The standard is Salcantay which was good when we did it in 2004, but is degrading rapidly. And now also regulated.

Far better and far more difficult is Choquiquirao to Machu Picchu. Hurry on that adventure, however. Peruvian officials are already looking at it.

At besthike we have high hopes for Bolivia. Trekking there is as yet very little developed due to government instability. But one day …

Check our full list of the best hikes in South America.

choquequirao.jpg
day 2 – Choquequirao to Machu Picchu – Zusk’s trip report

heli-hiking Berg / Robson in Canada

One of the best hikes in the Canadian Rockies is Berg Lake / Mt. Robson.

Of many highlights, getting a shower under majestic Emperor Falls is special. I’d actually never heard of these Falls before I hiked Mt. Robson. The are the most impressive Falls in Western Canada.

Heli-hiking is the best way to do Robson. A chopper is available twice a week to deliver you to Berg Lake. From there you want 3 days to explore the high alpine and another day to walk out.

Berg_Lake_Canadian_Rockies.jpg
Olivier George – Berg Lake from the Mumm Basin trail – Wikipedia

when can I hike Wonderland?

I’ve wanted to hike the Wonderland Trail since first hearing of it from a Washington State friend.

One group took 12 days in 2005 to circumambulate Mt. Ranier 90mi (145km). But they planned for resupply by having a friend walk in to meet them from the opposite direction.

Good idea.

Summerland to Indian Bar was an “incredible scenic route”. And at Indian Bar they saw 3 black bears.

Sadly, terrible flooding in November 2006 wrecked havoc. Hopefully the trail will be passable by summer 2007. But damage had not even been assessed in December.

Check out the trip report and 65 photos from the Wonderland Trail.

wonderland.jpg

Wonderland Trail – besthike information page

there’s no such thing as quicksand – right?

It’s just a movie invention.

That’s what I thought until I stumbled into quicksand in Paria Canyon, Utah.

quicksand.jpg

It sucked.

I had no problem getting out. Moving slowly, trying to float. But cattle regularly get trapped and die in the American canyon country.

More information:

Quicksand – wikipedia

Quicksand – How Stuff Works

what’s with Dunham boots?

My favourite hiking footwear is made by Dunham. The last store selling Dunham in my city of a million people dropped the line.

dunham.jpg

Why are the excellent Dunham products so poorly distributed?

Their “store locator” web page has been “under construction” for as long as I can recall.

When I phoned the customer information line I was surprised to get an immediate answer.

But was then directed to the “Canadian number” (877) 738-6426 where I was left hanging.

Dunham seems to have been acquired by New Balance. I hope retail distribution improves with new management. I like to try on new footwear, not buy it online.

where to hike next?

where-001.jpgA good use of besthike.com is to get planning advice.

Start on our world map home page. Then narrow down your search geographically. Do you want a great hike close to home? Or are you willing to travel far?

You might click through to the Chilkoot Trail in Yukon / Alaska, for example.

On that page you’ll find specifics on how and when to organize a hike. Check first the “best months” to hike to see if you are available.

chilkoot.jpg

2006 Photo Contest Winners @ National Geographic Traveler

Agh.

This photo freaks me out.

photocontest_gal7.jpg
John Dranchak, Long Beach, California

It was a Merit Prize winner in the most recent National Geographic contest chosen from 15,000 entries.

John Dranchak—until recently, an aerospace engineer in Long Beach, California—took this image in Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia, where he was traveling with friends. Dranchak says the guide is holding onto his friend’s belt to keep him from falling into the water.

“I was afraid to go down there and stand in that crevasse,” he says. “I walked up to the top of the ridge, and I thought, ‘This is just gorgeous.’ The colors of the image caught my eye.”

2006 Photo Contest Winners @ National Geographic Traveler

See the rest of the winning photos.

(via Adventure Blog)

hiking Angeles National Forest, California

Escaping the smog of LA is not so tough.

You could drive up to Mt. Whitney.

Or what about Timber Mountain via Icehouse Canyon in Angeles National Forest?

Modern Hiker posted a terrific trip report with photos, video, Google map, a flickr photo set, … (Is this blog GREAT, or what!)

Theirs was a challenging 10mi day hike with the wind blowing hard. But you could do a multi-day trip via Ice House Saddle if you prefer.

I opened the door to the Mount Baldy Visitor’s Center and walked inside. The warm, dark wood interior was a welcome respite from the howling winds outside. The rangers stood behind their desk – a bearded man and blond woman – smiling at me.

“Hi. I’d like a permit for the Cucamonga Wilderness.”

Still smiling, the woman said, “We are not recommending anyone go up there today.”

“Oh?”

The man chimed in. “We’re measuring wind gusts at 60 miles an hour. I almost got knocked down today.”

“But of course, we can’t do anything to stop you,” said the woman. Still smiles, that one.

I reached for a ballpoint pen and started filling out our Wilderness Permit. “I’m going to try for Ontario Peak. Is it more windy in the canyons, or on the ridge?”

“It’s windy everywhere.” The man with the beard was not smiling. All gravitas, he.

“What about ice?” …

Timber Mountain via Icehouse Canyon – Modern Hiker

349791860_93dea68d30.jpg

wild flower hiking

I love wild flowers but could not name a one.

I need to hike with Kris Light, editor of the East Tennessee Wildflowers website.

Kris has a big site which includes favourite wildflower hiking destinations, index of names, photo galleries and more.

Don’t be fooled by the name of the website. Kris lists over 1000 different wildflowers, fungi, and “critters” from Alaska, Arizona, California, Florida, Massachusetts, Tennessee and Utah.

Know that timing is everything when it comes to wildflowers.

You need plan your hike for one of the peak weeks of the season. This takes some research.

Check out EastTennesseeWildflowers.com.

coneflower_bee1.jpg
photo – Coneflower with Bumblebee

Apocalypto – the trek

The new Mel Gibson movie Apocalypto (2006) brought public attention to the Mayan ruins of El Mirador in Guatemala close to the Mexican border.

The 5-6 day hike to the fabled ruins of El Mirador is one of the best hikes in the world — we think.

mirador.jpg
National Geographic illustration of the original Mayan city

Our one attempt to get there, independently, we postponed. It’s a tough slog reports Ben Brazil:

Spider monkeys had hurled branches at us from treetops. Clouds of mosquitoes dogged our every step with the mechanical persistence of zombies. Although the jungle had wowed me with its ecological diversity, it had mainly stung me, sucked my blood and dehydrated me.
source – L.A. Times

For now we recommend you sign on with trekking company:

Trekking to El Mirador is a no-frills experience that demands toughness and good physical condition. You’ll need a guide and at least five days, round-trip — six to see the Nakbé ruins, which are on a different trail. Expect long days (six to 10 hours of walking). Pricier tours may offer a combination of walking and horseback riding.

Maya Expeditions … The American-run company offers seven- to 10-day treks costing $625-$1,085 per person with a four-person minimum. …

Martsam Travel … has five-day treks for $350 per person or seven-day treks for $460 per person for groups of four. English-speaking guide is extra. It also arranges guided, one-day helicopter trips to El Mirador, which cost $1,420 for up to four people if a helicopter is available in Flores. Often the helicopter must come from Guatemala City, raising the cost dramatically.

Many travel agencies in Flores sell cut-rate trips. Be careful: Some have sent clients without sufficient food or water, and service may be surly or worse.

source – L.A. Times

Read the full L.A. Times article – Atop the world of the Maya

Images from an entertaining 2003 trip report by Dave Howard in the Waterbury Observer.

tarantula.jpg
tarantula