Krista Morris posted some great pics on Facebook.
… 11 hours of hiking, 4 hours of driving! …
They summited Niblock, Whyte, and a 3rd peak on a beautiful sunny July day near Lake Louise, Alberta in Banff National Park.
harsh night on an Italian mountain
Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.
I was super excited to hike the Alpe di Siusi region of the Dolomites.
… Seiser Alm, (Italian: Alpe di Siusi) is the largest high altitude Alpine meadow in Europe. Located in Italy’s Bolzano-Bozen province (South Tyrol) in the Dolomites mountain range, it is a major tourist attraction, known for skiing and hiking. …
I planned 3 days, 2 nights. A big trip. Lots of mileage.
To get started, I cheated by riding the cable car to Compaccio 1844m (5050ft), a busy mountain tourist trap.
Arriving late afternoon, I was quite quickly forced into a cave.
OK, it was actually a storage space under a ski lift. I relaxed, dry, for about 90min.
The typical late afternoon rain ended. Some blue sky appeared. So I set off across gorgeous alpine meadows in the direction of the high peaks. Towards Rifugio Bolzano. I was following the Walk 24 itinerary from Walking in the Dolomites: 28 Multi-Day Routes by Gillian Price.
I was alone in the early evening except for many friendly cows.
Surprisingly, the skies threatened rain once again. To stay completely dry, I quickly set up my (technically illegal) tent on the side of the mountain. There I got pounded with a severe storm. Thunder and lightning non-stop for at least 5hrs. Super dangerous in the mountains. I feared for my life.
It continued raining all night.
I stayed in the tent 10hrs before I finally heard it stop.
Unzipping the fly , I was astonished to see this winter wonderland. It was July. In sunny Italy.
Snow is always better than rain for a hiker. I packed up as quickly as I could. And headed back down the mountain. The only other hikers I passed were a couple from Norway. They had the same idea. Hiking in the snow is beautiful. Hiking in the rain, a drag.
That night I ended up in a soft bed in a terrific hostel in the quiet mountain town of Brixen.
All’s well that ends well, I guess.
But I REALLY want to go back ….
By the way, my friend Jeni had a similar experience on this same route. She got lost, taking a wrong trail/animal track. On the side of a steep mountain she decided to rope herself to the cliff. Gathering her wits, she finally decided on the safest way out of danger.
Even when there are hundreds of other hikers around, the mountains can still be very dangerous.
This was a cautionary adventure for me. It was almost as scary as the lighting storm I experienced on the John Muir Trail.
best hike Grossglockner, Austria?
Right now in Saltzburg.
Cannot seem to put my hands on any of the Cicerone hiking guidebooks covering the region. (They do not stock many English language titles in Austria.)
Leave a comment if you have a recommendation for the best hike around the biggest mountain.
Bus and Bike the Italian Dolomites
To rest my feet between hikes, I rented a mountain bike for an “easy” day in the mountains of North Italy.
I did a good chunk of this loop. The bus delivers you to a high pass. And you roll generally downhill.
The Rails to Trails sections were awesome. But at times I was pushed out into astonishingly dangerous holiday traffic. I can’t believe they don’t have several deaths a day.
The cycling was brilliant. So much fun that I ended up cycling about 120km. Probably the longest day in the saddle I’ve ever done.
(There was some chaffing.)
My 19 Euro / day bike was great. The company – Noleggio – does a very professional job. I could drop the bike anywhere around the loop.
Check this out … a custom water bottle holder for a 1.5 litre Coke Lite.
Brilliant!
hike the 5 Towers, Dolomites, Italy
Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.
Like my hike to the 3 Peaks, again this trailhead starts high, at a bus stop mountain pass
I followed exactly trip #10 from my hiking guide. I planned, as recommended, to sleep the unique and extreme Rifugio Nuvolau 2575m (8450ft)
Sadly all the bunks were reserved, the only Refugio I’ve found completely full, so far.
This lofty aerie is totally dangerous. It would never be allowed in Canada. I assume one or two people fall to their deaths off the cliff every year.
Here’s a guy drying his t-shirt on the helicopter landing pad a few feet from the brink.
I’m a little more cautious getting that close to the drop-off.
There are the famed 5 towers far below.
From here they don’t look like 5 towers. But from Cortina they do.
It was a fantastic hike. Just gorgeous. See the rest of my photos.
On the return to my starting point I checked 3 more Refugios. All had space for me. But I did not like any of them. Especially the one that suggested the price 45€.
The one previous charged 26€ for a basic bunk bed.
Happily there was a late bus back to town. I slept in my own tent in Camping Rocchetta back in Cortina. Cost 9€.
The 5 Towers is a well known destination for mountain climbers:
… Cinque Torri, meaning “Five Towers”, is a group of actually more than 5 towers that lies on the south slopes of Falzarego Pass above Cortina d’Ampezzo. …
Summit Post – Cinque Torri Group
Highly recommended!
hike the 3 Peaks in the Dolomites, Italy
Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.
These are the famed and disclaimed 3 Peaks. The most photographed mountains in the Dolomites, I reckon.
… The Drei Zinnen (German for “Three Peaks”), also called the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Italian), are three distinctive battlement-like peaks, in the Sexten Dolomites of northeastern Italy. They are probably one of the best-known mountain groups in the Alps. …
People come to the Locatelli Refuge (IT Rif. Locatelli) to enjoy a fine meal at high altititude.
I’ve never seen so many hikers in one place at one time before, except on the Tongariro Crossing in New Zealand.
Why are they here?
It’s easy to take a bus right to 2300m (7545ft), the very base of the mountains.
But, for some reason, the crowds did not bother me. It was wonderful to see so many people exposed to hiking in such an easy and painless way.
If you hate crowds of enthralled visitors, go hike Alaska.
I adored everything about this hike.
I loved the wild flowers. Alpine meadows. The WW 1 history. The tunnels. Especially the Via ferrata (Iron Way) side trips. I think I’ve found a new life passion.
Hiking in Italy is far easier than I expected.
1) Travel to Cortina, Italy
2) Buy a bus ticket to TRAILHEAD at Rif. Auronzo
3) Wander where you like for as long as you like
4) Take a LOT of photos
I used Walking in the Dolomites: 28 Multi-Day Routes by Gillian Price. This Cicerone title is the best available in English for this region. This area is covered by hikes 1,2 and 3. Buy your guidebooks in advance of travelling to Italy. English books are not widely available here as there are so many other titles in German and Italian.
Cicerone has several other guides including Treks in the Dolomites: Alta Vie 1 and 2 and Shorter Walks in the Dolomites. But the one I used is the best for most hikers.
No need to carry a hiking pack. There are great mountain huts every hour or two. Hosts will feed you and give you a bed for 40-50 Euro a day.
I left a Summit Stone on behalf of artist DSD. Look for it in the cairn atop the carved stone steps starting the Via ferrata closest to Refugio Pian de Cengia. (That’s a FUN Via ferrata by the way. Exhilarating, but safe.)
If looking for more inspiration to plan a trip to Italy, see all 134 of my photos. (I went crazy with the camera.)
sleep cheap – The Tent – Munich
This place is ideal for European hikers in transit who have the gear and experience to sleep on the ground, outside.
The hostels and low cost hotels in Munich are often full. As an overflow, you can always stay at “The Tent”, a non-profit organization.
It’s a campground. A big tent full of bunkbeds.
Or a big tent where you can sleep on the Floor.
Cost in 2009 depending on which you choose varies from 7.50 – 11 Euro / person. Even less if you put 2 or more people in your own tent.
See more photos. The many services offered.
read some reviews
They have a tent in Berlin, Germany, as well. A real party “scene” at both places.
I’ve always felt there’s a market for low cost accommodation. You could make money offering cheap sleeps in many parts of the world where hostels are over-priced.
hiking Port Joli Head, Nova Scotia
Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.
Finally, a success story from my hiking days in Maritime Canada.
I loved this pretty little 8.7km day hike loop, the seaside adjunct of Kejimkujik National Park. That’s the only National Park in all of Nova Scotia.
It was all good. A lovely coastal walk to visit the seals.
bushwhacking Cape Split, Nova Scotia
An information kiosk lady told me I would not like the Cape Split Trail. That peaked my interest.
Was she wrong as so many information kiosk ladies are wrong about hikes?
It looked appealing on the map.
At the trailhead a woman coming off the trail looked muddy and disappointed. She inspired me to take to the coastline (left side) instead of the regular inland trail.
Perhaps I could make it all the way to the end. Then backtrack on the regular trail.
I love the beach boulder boogie at low tide. There were no impassable headlands as far as I got. It was great FUN … but required the agility of a mountain goat.
Eventually, time pressing, I decided to bushwhack across the Spit to the main trail. And return back to my rent-a-car that way.
How far could it be?
Turned out this was the worst bushwhack since George decided to lead us through the Devil’s Club in Alaska, bear hunting.
I do wish I had made it to the end of the spit.
Nova Trails – information
Ronnie Sculion – trip report
best hike Nova Scotia – Cape Chignecto FAIL
Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.
Cape Chignecto Coastal Trail is the best hike in Nova Scotia:
… approximately 51 kilometres (40 miles) long beginning and ending at the Red Rocks Trail Head. When you venture along the coastal trail at Cape Chignecto be prepared for one of Atlantic Canada’s most spectacular adventures. The views are breathtaking. It can be done from either direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise). A three to four day trip will allow time to stop and explore the beaches and viewpoints along the way. …
David Beattie of the Gillespie House Inn had recommended Chignecto. That was the first time I had heard of it.
At Mountain Equipment Co-op in Halifax (the major airport closest to this adventure), staff advised me to get Wilderness Trails and Day Hikes of Cape Chignecto by David Hamilton, the only dedicated guide.
While wolfing down a $5 steak dinner special, I skimmed the guidebook. That was the night before driving to the trailhead. Cape Chignecto sounded quite straight forward. No special concerns.
I wish I’d checked the website, as well: CapeChignecto.net
Picking up my rent-a-car at Noon I enjoyed a leisurely drive through rustic Nova Scotia. On the map the trailhead did not look far. I expected to check in at the Visitor’s Centre in the afternoon and get a good start before dark. … Unfortunately the drive on narrow scenic highways took far longer than I expected. I did not arrive at the trailhead until 5:02 PM.
It closed at 5PM.
I was still psyched, though. Happy to have made it. Raring to go.
Disappointingly there was no information posted outside the building on what after hours arrivers should do. Where to camp?
I could not deposit money for my Park Entry Fee and camping fees ($23/night) into a drop slot. There was none.
I drove back to the only open store in town. They had no additional information for me.
Still “early”, I decided to drive out to Elliot Field campground, hoping to find someone to notify that I was hiking. Or someone to accept my fees.
Nothing.
There were no people. No vehicles at Elliot Field. The only signs posted by the Provincial Park warned that my unregistered vehicle would be towed. That concern nagged.
The section from this campground to Seal Cove my guidebook called “The Crown Jewel” of the hike. I decided to leave my vehicle at Elliot Field campground and enjoy the 6km walk to Seal Cove.
It is gorgeous.
I chose a tent site overlooking the world’s highest tides in the Bay of Fundy below.
How’s this for creative food bag hanging?
I left a Summit Stone on behalf of artist DSD atop the highest point on Seal Beach.
In the morning I finally decided to hike back to the car. And drive away. Happily, my rental was still there at 8AM.
Irked at having FAILED on this hike, I didn’t bother to go complain at the Visitor Centre. Nor pay my Park fee.
There’s a reason that Cape Chignecto Trail is deserted in July, while the West Coast Trail is overbooked.
Cape Chignecto simply has not been promoted enough. Nor is it managed properly.
Fact is Cape Chignecto is the best hike in Nova Scotia. Perhaps all the Maritimes. Yet almost nobody knows about it.
You can have it to yourself if you go.
But don’t show up at the trailhead except during office hours.
See my photos from this too short hike on flickr.
besthike.com 