Rick Mc

July 24, 2009July 26, 2009

hike the 5 Towers, Dolomites, Italy

Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.

Like my hike to the 3 Peaks, again this trailhead starts high, at a bus stop mountain pass

Rick-at-mountain-pass

I followed exactly trip #10 from my hiking guide. I planned, as recommended, to sleep the unique and extreme Rifugio Nuvolau 2575m (8450ft)

Sadly all the bunks were reserved, the only Refugio I’ve found completely full, so far.

This lofty aerie is totally dangerous. It would never be allowed in Canada. I assume one or two people fall to their deaths off the cliff every year.

Here’s a guy drying his t-shirt on the helicopter landing pad a few feet from the brink.

I’m a little more cautious getting that close to the drop-off.

Rick-on-the-brink

There are the famed 5 towers far below.

From here they don’t look like 5 towers. But from Cortina they do.

It was a fantastic hike. Just gorgeous. See the rest of my photos.

On the return to my starting point I checked 3 more Refugios. All had space for me. But I did not like any of them. Especially the one that suggested the price 45€.

The one previous charged 26€ for a basic bunk bed.

Happily there was a late bus back to town. I slept in my own tent in Camping Rocchetta back in Cortina. Cost 9€.

The 5 Towers is a well known destination for mountain climbers:

… Cinque Torri, meaning “Five Towers”, is a group of actually more than 5 towers that lies on the south slopes of Falzarego Pass above Cortina d’Ampezzo. …

Summit Post – Cinque Torri Group

Highly recommended!

July 23, 2009July 22, 2009

hike the 3 Peaks in the Dolomites, Italy

Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.

These are the famed and disclaimed 3 Peaks. The most photographed mountains in the Dolomites, I reckon.

… The Drei Zinnen (German for “Three Peaks”), also called the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Italian), are three distinctive battlement-like peaks, in the Sexten Dolomites of northeastern Italy. They are probably one of the best-known mountain groups in the Alps. …

People come to the Locatelli Refuge (IT Rif. Locatelli) to enjoy a fine meal at high altititude.

I’ve never seen so many hikers in one place at one time before, except on the Tongariro Crossing in New Zealand.

many-hikers

Why are they here?

It’s easy to take a bus right to 2300m (7545ft), the very base of the mountains.

But, for some reason, the crowds did not bother me. It was wonderful to see so many people exposed to hiking in such an easy and painless way.

If you hate crowds of enthralled visitors, go hike Alaska.

I adored everything about this hike.

I loved the wild flowers. Alpine meadows. The WW 1 history. The tunnels. Especially the Via ferrata (Iron Way) side trips. I think I’ve found a new life passion.

Hiking in Italy is far easier than I expected.

map-of-Dolomites

hiking-guidebook 1) Travel to Cortina, Italy
2) Buy a bus ticket to TRAILHEAD at Rif. Auronzo
3) Wander where you like for as long as you like
4) Take a LOT of photos

I used Walking in the Dolomites: 28 Multi-Day Routes by Gillian Price. This Cicerone title is the best available in English for this region. This area is covered by hikes 1,2 and 3. Buy your guidebooks in advance of travelling to Italy. English books are not widely available here as there are so many other titles in German and Italian.

Cicerone has several other guides including Treks in the Dolomites: Alta Vie 1 and 2 and Shorter Walks in the Dolomites. But the one I used is the best for most hikers.

No need to carry a hiking pack. There are great mountain huts every hour or two. Hosts will feed you and give you a bed for 40-50 Euro a day.

I left a Summit Stone on behalf of artist DSD. Look for it in the cairn atop the carved stone steps starting the Via ferrata closest to Refugio Pian de Cengia. (That’s a FUN Via ferrata by the way. Exhilarating, but safe.)

If looking for more inspiration to plan a trip to Italy, see all 134 of my photos. (I went crazy with the camera.)

July 22, 2009

sleep cheap – The Tent – Munich

This place is ideal for European hikers in transit who have the gear and experience to sleep on the ground, outside.

The hostels and low cost hotels in Munich are often full. As an overflow, you can always stay at “The Tent”, a non-profit organization.

It’s a campground. A big tent full of bunkbeds.

bunk-beds

Or a big tent where you can sleep on the Floor.

sleep-on-the-Floor

Cost in 2009 depending on which you choose varies from 7.50 – 11 Euro / person. Even less if you put 2 or more people in your own tent.

See more photos. The many services offered.

official website

read some reviews

They have a tent in Berlin, Germany, as well. A real party “scene” at both places.

I’ve always felt there’s a market for low cost accommodation. You could make money offering cheap sleeps in many parts of the world where hostels are over-priced.

July 22, 2009July 26, 2009

hiking Port Joli Head, Nova Scotia

Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.

Finally, a success story from my hiking days in Maritime Canada.

I loved this pretty little 8.7km day hike loop, the seaside adjunct of Kejimkujik National Park. That’s the only National Park in all of Nova Scotia.

map

It was all good. A lovely coastal walk to visit the seals.

see the rest of my photos

July 21, 2009

bushwhacking Cape Split, Nova Scotia

An information kiosk lady told me I would not like the Cape Split Trail. That peaked my interest.

Was she wrong as so many information kiosk ladies are wrong about hikes?

It looked appealing on the map.

Cape-Split-map

At the trailhead a woman coming off the trail looked muddy and disappointed. She inspired me to take to the coastline (left side) instead of the regular inland trail.

Perhaps I could make it all the way to the end. Then backtrack on the regular trail.

I love the beach boulder boogie at low tide. There were no impassable headlands as far as I got. It was great FUN … but required the agility of a mountain goat.

Eventually, time pressing, I decided to bushwhack across the Spit to the main trail. And return back to my rent-a-car that way.

How far could it be?

Turned out this was the worst bushwhack since George decided to lead us through the Devil’s Club in Alaska, bear hunting.

I do wish I had made it to the end of the spit.

cape-split

Nova Trails – information

Ronnie Sculion – trip report

July 17, 2009

best hike Nova Scotia – Cape Chignecto FAIL

Trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles.

Cape Chignecto Coastal Trail is the best hike in Nova Scotia:

… approximately 51 kilometres (40 miles) long beginning and ending at the Red Rocks Trail Head. When you venture along the coastal trail at Cape Chignecto be prepared for one of Atlantic Canada’s most spectacular adventures. The views are breathtaking. It can be done from either direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise). A three to four day trip will allow time to stop and explore the beaches and viewpoints along the way. …

David Beattie of the Gillespie House Inn had recommended Chignecto. That was the first time I had heard of it.

At Mountain Equipment Co-op in Halifax (the major airport closest to this adventure), staff advised me to get Wilderness Trails and Day Hikes of Cape Chignecto by David Hamilton, the only dedicated guide.

While wolfing down a $5 steak dinner special, I skimmed the guidebook. That was the night before driving to the trailhead. Cape Chignecto sounded quite straight forward. No special concerns.

I wish I’d checked the website, as well: CapeChignecto.net

Picking up my rent-a-car at Noon I enjoyed a leisurely drive through rustic Nova Scotia. On the map the trailhead did not look far. I expected to check in at the Visitor’s Centre in the afternoon and get a good start before dark. … Unfortunately the drive on narrow scenic highways took far longer than I expected. I did not arrive at the trailhead until 5:02 PM.

It closed at 5PM.

I was still psyched, though. Happy to have made it. Raring to go.

Cape-Chignecto-sign

Disappointingly there was no information posted outside the building on what after hours arrivers should do. Where to camp?

I could not deposit money for my Park Entry Fee and camping fees ($23/night) into a drop slot. There was none.

I drove back to the only open store in town. They had no additional information for me.

Still “early”, I decided to drive out to Elliot Field campground, hoping to find someone to notify that I was hiking. Or someone to accept my fees.

Nothing.

There were no people. No vehicles at Elliot Field. The only signs posted by the Provincial Park warned that my unregistered vehicle would be towed. That concern nagged.

The section from this campground to Seal Cove my guidebook called “The Crown Jewel” of the hike. I decided to leave my vehicle at Elliot Field campground and enjoy the 6km walk to Seal Cove.

It is gorgeous.

I chose a tent site overlooking the world’s highest tides in the Bay of Fundy below.

tent

How’s this for creative food bag hanging?

hanging-food

I left a Summit Stone on behalf of artist DSD atop the highest point on Seal Beach.

beach

In the morning I finally decided to hike back to the car. And drive away. Happily, my rental was still there at 8AM.

Irked at having FAILED on this hike, I didn’t bother to go complain at the Visitor Centre. Nor pay my Park fee.

There’s a reason that Cape Chignecto Trail is deserted in July, while the West Coast Trail is overbooked.

Cape Chignecto simply has not been promoted enough. Nor is it managed properly.

Fact is Cape Chignecto is the best hike in Nova Scotia. Perhaps all the Maritimes. Yet almost nobody knows about it.

You can have it to yourself if you go.

But don’t show up at the trailhead except during office hours.

See my photos from this too short hike on flickr.

July 16, 2009July 16, 2009

Italian Dolomite Mountains: insanely GREAT

by site editor Rick McCharles

My first trip to the Dolomites, I now know that it was a grievous injustice that we left this astounding scenery off our list of the top 10 hiking regions of the world.

I’ll be correcting that in the coming weeks.

These mountains are the best I’ve seen anywhere.

Trip reports to come. Internet access in the mountains is lousy. (The worst thing I can say about these mountains.)

I’ve moved to the S.W. part of the region for my next two hikes.

July 13, 2009July 9, 2009

my new MSR Reactor Camping Stove

Review pending.

Just purchased the Reactor:

We’ve combined state of the art cookware with revolutionary stove design to make the Reactor stove the fastest, most fuel efficient stove system ever. The Reactor stove’s radiant burner is enclosed by a unique heat exchanger for unmatched performance in windy conditions while an advanced pressure regulator provides optimal heat output over the life of a fuel canister. Stove and fuel stow inside of the high-efficiency 1.7-liter pot that’s great for everything from solo trips to cooking for groups of up to three people. A collapsible handle locks the unique see-thru lid in place for safe and easy transport.

Unmatched Wind Protection: Radiant burner head is enclosed by heat exchanger for maximum protection in even the windiest conditions.

Unrivaled Boil Time: Out-performs the competition in lab tests—boiling a liter of water in just 3 minutes—with a far greater advantage in windy conditions.

Maximum Efficiency: Patent-pending radiant burner and heat exchanger make the Reactor the most efficient all-condition stove system, so you carry less fuel.

Integrated System: State-of-the-art stove and high-efficiency pot are combined into one compact, easy-to-use system.

MSR

Amazon – MSR Reactor Stove System

I want to use it in Europe carrying one canister of fuel to last many days. They claim 80mins of burn time / canister.

Volume and weight were the main factor in my decision. The alternatives were messy, finicky multi-fuel systems.

The best website I consulted was Zen – How to Choose a Backpacking Stove – Stove Choices

related post – Jetboil vs MSR vs Primus stoves

July 11, 2009July 11, 2009

besthike pilgramage to the Dolomites

by site editor Rick McCharles

Arrived first in Cortina, Italy. First trek is Tre Clime di Lavaredo Circuit.

click for larger photo of the Three Peaks - bergretter — click for larger photo - bergretter

Looking at a multi-day mountain biking trip next.

July 10, 2009July 9, 2009

new – Sierra Club Trails wiki

Natalie Gaber let us know that the Sierra Club launched a new website Thursday, July 9th.

It’s called Sierra Club Trails, the first hiking wiki. (So far as we know.)

Using Wetpaint software, anyone can edit any of their listed trails. For example, check Angel’s Landing in Zion National Park. (You can read that page. But must log-in to edit.)

Or start from the home page: