In the death zone everyone is at risk. It’s not an Olympic yacht race. The same rules do not apply.
Anyone who climbs that high knows the risks.
As I write at least 10 have died during the 2006 Everest high season. Thomas Weber died on the way up at 8,700m. His partner David Sharp freaked out on the way down and died 300m below the summit. Perhaps 40 climbers passed unwilling or unable to save him.
They were criticized by Edmund Hillary — but I don’t judge them. I’m not sure what I would do.
Lincoln Hall, another day, was left for dead at 8,800m. He survived overnight, a miracle, and was helped down the mountain next day.
What I am saying is that this issue is more complicated than it seems. Read Beck Weathers uplifting book Left For Dead before you pass judgement.
besthike.com 
Just heard a podcast with climber Andrew Brash.
Brash helped save Lincoln Hall, forfeiting his chance to summit. He stopped 250m from the top even though conditions were perfect that day.