paradise – the Kalalau Trail in Hawaii

Most do only the 4mi return from the trailhead at stunning Ke’e Beach through to Hanakapiai Beach (one drowning / year). This is the glorious, but dangerous, Na Pali coast.

Serious hikers definitely want to overnight on the Kalalau Trail, the best hike in Hawaii. The highlight of my 3wks on Kauai.

I was there 3 days, 2 nights.

You need a camping permit ($10 / night). I picked mine up in person at the DOFAW office in Lihue. They sell maps, as well, but a guidebook map is enough. Far better would be to apply for your permit months in advance as the quota is often sold out.

I hiked all 11mi (17.7km) the first day. That’s the best itinerary — but you should get an early start. There’s a public bus on Kauai, but it does not go all the way to the trailhead. The closest campground is Haena Beach Park about a mile from the start.

Kalalau is surprisingly more difficult than it looks.

I fell once each day. Total, I saw 3 seriously injured hikers. This was in PERFECT weather. It would be very sketchy in wet weather.

The trail is sometimes closed due to rain. But most often storms like this blow in and right over the trail, settling on the high peaks above.

Even in perfect weather, there are a many places where an unexpected stumble could hurtle you to your death.

Some say the cliff trails are eroded to the point where the Kalalau should be closed. I wouldn’t go that far. And I did see maintenance guys working on it while I was there.

It’s dangerous. But not as dangerous as the West Coast Trail in Canada, in comparison.

I thought the views might be wonderful, but similar. All massive green cliffs.

Not at all. It is terrifically varied. Over the 11mi you go from lush rainforest to an almost arid environment.

I set up camp at the very end of the Kalalau. Paradise?

The camping area is over a mile long, the beach huge. It was not particularly crowded when I was there.

Here I had something of an odd experience. Logically I knew, “It doesn’t get any better than this.” Yet I was emotionally unmoved by paradise. (Perhaps being a blogger is making me too analytical on these trips.)

Next day I moved on to investigate side trips including Hanakoa Falls.

Gorgeous.

Just as good, I thought, but further to reach, is Hanakapiai Falls.

There’s too much to highlight in one post. If you’ve been waffling about heading to Hawaii for hiking, I say go for it. Kauai, of course.

I did get back safe-and-sound to my rent-a-car at Haena Beach Park campground.

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I used Kathy Morey’s guidebook, the best overall, Kaua’i Trails.

Great on flora and fauna. Less than perfect when it comes to written descriptions of trails.

Here’s what Kathy’s got to say about this hike:

“The Na Pali Coast’s Kalalau Trail is sometimes touted as one of the world’s most beautiful hikes, but I disagree. Those wishing to see the Na Pali Coast as it’s typically shown in calendars, travelogues, and coffee table books may find that helicopter of boat trips are better at providing the experience and scenery they expect. Being on the Na Pali Coast’s Kalalau Trail is a very different experience, often far from idyllic. It’s the difference between looking at a beauful animal from a distance and being a flea on that animal.

… Camping areas are filthy, overused, crowded, and bug-and-toad infested. …

… once notorious for its resident population of hippies and their ultra-casual, clothing-optional lifestyle. Those days are over. Nudity has always been illegal at all Hawaiian beaches. Expect to find a resident caretaker in the Kalalau area who will keep an eye on visitors and educate them …

… Call me an iconoclast, but I regard backpacking the Kalalau Trail … As a poor use of the limited time most visitors probably have on Kauai. … you’re better off day hiking it.” …

I beg to differ. Everyone I’ve spoken with loved this hike. Many told me it was the greatest hike of their lives.

Certainly in March I saw no mosquitoes, no toads, no bugs. The campsites are littered as is much of Kaua’i, but it in no way ruined the experience for me.

One “hippy” approached me for leftover food. Another I saw fleeing inland. (The police were around organizing the evacuation of a hiker with a sprained ankle.) Since Kathy wrote the book, authorities have cracked down on illegal camping.

I did see both topless and nude women at the beach and in the waterfall — that in no way ruined the experience for me, either.

Had a wild boar checking out my campsite at dusk. I took care of that brute, though.

Chased after him with my camera. (This pig some hunter had left to dry beside the highway.)

Check the annotated photos from my Kalalau hike on flickr.

If you’re wondering if this trail is safe enough for you, read more on these two posts:

Kalalau Trail Conditions – A Kaua’i Blog

More Kalalau Questions – A Kaua’i Blog