Climbing Rinjani, Indonesia – day 3

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Tim posted the BEST 20 photos from our trip in an Instagram story. Scroll through.


7am UP on our final day.  

I actually carried my own tent on this adventure. Air mattresses in the provided tents were not good. ๐Ÿ˜€

The crater rim vistas really are superb. 

The biggest takeaway from this trip for everyone is being impressed with the porters.  Rather than use the more efficient tump system, they balance these loads on one shoulder while doing big step-ups and step-downs.  

They all wear flipflops.  Until they break. 

We were headed down, back to civilization. 

Somewhat slippery โ€” but overall fairly easy. 

We had lunch in a shady forest, monkeys and cows standing by to gobble down what leftovers they could get. 

It was a shock to get to the trailhead.  Noisy motor cycles. 

Perhaps 120 people readying to start.  

Those who sign up for 2 days, 1 night begin and end here close to Sembalun village.  They miss the lake and hotsprings.

It took about an hour to drive back from Sembalun to our start at Senaru village.  We returned rented gear and recovered our luggage left in storage. 

TIPS

  • BEST HIKE is our itinerary (3 days, 2 nights in tent) with an afternoon ascent rather than the crowded, dusty line-up for dawn.  Day 1 is long and hard, however. 
  • WAIT for a good weather forecast, if you can  
  • Green Rinjani looked one of the most professional companies at camp, to me.  Modern tents. Tables and chairs.
  • Grippy and comfortable shoes are the most important piece of gear.  Wear a size larger than normal so your toes arenโ€™t crushed on the descent. 
  • Protection from sun and wind is important.  Sun screen.  I brought a sun hoodie.  
  • Porters provide as much water as you can drink.  
  • I fell about 8 times over the 3 days.  No injuries as I almost always landed on my backpack. 
  • I didnโ€™t bring trekking poles.  And that was a mistake.  Our guide gave me one pole for long down climbs.  
  • Itโ€™s badly littered.  
  • Sanitation standards are low.  No water for washing up.  Not even the expected containers of alcohol gel that Iโ€™ve had on similar trips around the developing world. 

I completely enjoyed Rinjani.  It could hardly have gone any better for our group with the afternoon ascent.  

BUT โž™ Bottom line โž™ I canโ€™t recommend this hike.  Itโ€™s simply too dangerous.  

During the July 2018 Lombok earthquake, multiple climbers and guides were killed by landslides triggered on Rinjaniโ€™s slopes. 

March 2007, seven people died of exposure after illegally scaling the volcano during a ban. 

Be sure to have evacuation insurance, just in case.

Youโ€™ve been warned. 

Trip Report

Indonesia – Bromo Volcano at Dawn

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Iโ€™ve long wanted to get to this famous vista.ย  It didnโ€™t disappoint.ย 

Mount Bromo 2,329 meters (7,641ย ft) is an activeย somma volcano andย Hindu pilgrimage site inย East Java,ย Indonesia.

The name Bromo comes from the Javanese pronunciation ofย Brahma, theย Hindu godย of creation.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Getting there is a wild ride. ย  Almost everyone signs up for a jeep tour.ย  Only these small Toyota Landcruiser Jeeps are allowed up the mountain.

I departed my hostel in Malang City at 12:45am.ย  It was a scary Mad Max ride over dirt tracks before reaching the viewpoint at 3:15am.ย 

They get you there so early in case of road problems.ย  And jeep breakdowns.ย  It happens.ย 

They also hope youโ€™ll rent warm jackets and blankets.ย  Or buy some souvenirs. ย 

Itโ€™s well worth being there at very first light through dawn, in any case.ย  The volcano vista keeps changing.ย  Every photo a possible postcard.ย 

Here are just a few of the dozens I shot.ย 

Itโ€™s crowded!ย  Everyone scrambling for the best position. ย 

The adventurous bushwhack down the hillside looking for more unique framing.ย 

Iโ€™ll never forget Bromo.ย 

From here the jeep takes you down to the smouldering caldera for a crowded, dusty climb up stairs.ย  I was disappointed with this and the sea of sand beneath.ย  There are many better volcanoes to climb in Indonesia.


DETAILS

Of a number of 1, 2, or 3 day options, I ended up doing the most popular โž™ Bromo Sunrise Tour. Very inexpensive at CAD $50 which includes entry fees.

Itinerary:

  • 00:30: Prepare for pick-up from Malang hostel by 4ร—4 Jeep
  • 01:00: Journey to Penanjakan (sunrise viewpoint by jeep).
  • 03:30: Arrive at the viewpoint and wait for sunrise
  • 05:00: Witness the magical sunrise from Penanjakan.
  • 06:30: Drive down to the Bromo crater area.
  • 07:00: Free time exploring the Bromo Crater.
  • 08:30: Visit the Sand Sea area and the Savanna.
  • 09:00: Begin the journey back to Malang.
  • 11:30: Approximate arrival back at the hostel.

Hiking Lake Sรธrvรกgsvatn, Faroe Islands

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Almost every tourist to the Faroe Islands goes to see the lake hanging over the ocean. Unique and spectacular.

Sรธrvรกgsvatn is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands. 

… surface is about 40 m (130 ft) above the level of the sea.

It is surrounded by a higher cliff which prevents it from emptying fully into the ocean, the waterfall Bรธsdalafossur being the outlet.

The greater height of the cliffs on either side of Bรธsdalafossur can give the illusion from certain perspectives that the lake is higher above sea level than it is.

The waterfall vista is great. But personally I liked even better walking the Trรฆlanรญpan cliff โ€”ย aka the โ€˜Slave Cliffโ€™. Supposedly where slaves were pushed to their deaths.

There are many, many birds nesting on those vertical sides.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

In 2024 the hiking fee was 450 kr (USD $42) / adult (ages 15+) for a guided walk. 200 kr (USD $20) / adult (ages 15+) to hike on your own, as I did.

Price is $teep. And has been going up in recent years. Know that there are other great cliff walks free in the Faroe Islands. ๐Ÿ˜€

official website – tralanipan.fo

related – Moon and Honey – Lake Sรธrvรกgsvatn (Floating Lake above the Ocean) and the Trรฆlanรญpa Hike, Faroe Islands

Moon and Honey – entrance