BEST HIKES Arches and Canyonlands, Utah

It’s all good.

This may be the best region in the world for hikers.

i could not find a bad official hike anywhere out of Moab, Utah.

That’s a problem for someone trying to list the “best hikes”. Still, in this post I sum up recommendations for hikers coming to the area for the first time. It’s a starting point.

Travel to Moab, Utah … in a motor vehicle. The US National Park system caters to everyone, no matter how obese. No matter how obese their motor home.

But the hiker with no vehicle is looked upon with suspicion. Indeed, is cited if caught hitchhiking.

Best hikes closest to Moab:


Delicate Arch
, Arches

Devil’s Garden, Arches
Negro Bill’s Canyon

A mad walker can do these 3 dayhikes and more in a long day. Better would be 2-days.

Next drive 45min up to astonishing Dead Horse Point State Park. In fact, I suggest you stay in the car campground there, one of the best in the entire 4 corners region.

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source – USGS

Next, move on to Island in the Sky in Canyonlands and hike (at least) Syncline Loop. There are perhaps 6 more essential short “parking lot hikes” including Mesa Arch. You need minimum 2 days on the Island in the Sky.

I’d strongly recommend you bypass Canyonland’s The Maze entirely. It’s too remote, too dangerous. Perhaps the most isolated land mass anywhere in the lower 48 States.

Instead, take a leisurely, scenic drive down to The Needles. Spend the rest of your hiking days there starting with the Chesler Park area.

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campsite CP2 – Needles

You can do a lot in a week out of Moab as access to trailheads is so easy and most of the trails short. (Two weeks would be twice as good.)

And there is plenty to interest everyone. Many of the walks are wheelchair accessible. But those looking for adventure need merely scramble off-trail up the slickrock.

Read Edward Abbey’s 1968 classic Desert Solitaire while in the desert.

The Fall is slightly better than Spring for this region. The bugs are gone by early August. October would be best — but in October 2006 some of the roads were washed out due to atypical rainy weather.

John Hyde – Alaska photos

WOW.

I want to go to Alaska.

It’s well worth taking the time to see the professional slideshow of these photos. These are only “thumbnails” of the real thing.

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Stumbled upon Wild Things Photography, found many pretty pictures. The shooter is John Hyde of Juneau, Alaska.

Two-Heel Drive

FalconGuide’s Trailhead on-line community

Welcome to the FalconGuides Trailhead. This is your starting point to a community filled with experts and enthusiasts who all share a passion for the outdoors and an interest in sharing their stories, photos, and experiences with others.

FalconGuide’s Trailhead | Falcon Guides

Thanks to Tom for pointing out this interesting new experiment:

It’s all brand-new now, so it’s hard to judge how well it will turn out, but it’s worth a look. The “trail finder” is just a link to trails.com, a subscription service I’ve never felt compelled to invest in.

Two-Heel Drive

I’ll join and report back here. Quick to criticize what I don’t like about Falcon Guidebooks, this way I could be part of the system working to improve them.

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Falcon hiking guidebook feedback

Falcon has more hiking guidebooks than anyone else in North America, some of them not very good.

Here’s their pitch:

FalconGuides are leading the way with more than 800 titles in over 30 series. Our 500-plus authors have personally hiked, climbed, pedaled, paddled, and recorded a total of more than 11,000 published FalconGuide trails, rides, and waterways and as many as 50,000 climbing routes in nearly every state in the nation and in nine European countries. All are documented on the more than 6,000 maps we produce every year for outdoor enthusiasts.

Falcon Trails

I’ve often seen the brand as an “impulse” buy. Available almost everywhere at a low cost. But not all that usable in the real outdoors.

To my happy surprise, on a 2-week hiking trip out of Moab, Utah, the Falcon was by far the best guidebook available. I bought Hiking Canyonlands and Arches National Parks, 2nd edition 2005.

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It is written by Bill Schneider, founder of Falcon, now the retired President. It looked pretty good. Bill obviously loves this region. The text is well written, without conspicuous errors.

After my trip I emailed Bill to give him some feedback on the book.

First day we encountered two big snakes on the trail.

I whipped out my guidebook to check if they were a dangerous species. What? There is no section on animal dangers! What about scorpions, black widow spiders, rattle snakes and centipedes?

Ask a Ranger. It’s not in your guidebook.

A bigger frustration I have with this book (and others) many others is lack of an index. Bill tells me that creating a good index is far more difficult than people think. He would love to have one, but it is a lot of work for the publisher.

The most important part of any hiking guidebook to me are the maps. And, happily, the second edition maps are a HUGE improvement. They look very “clean”.

Too clean. Imagine my disappointment to discover that not all backcountry campsites are included on these Falcon maps.

Specifically I was looking for CP5 in Chesler Park. It’s not in my guidebook though it is on all the NPS on-line maps:

chesler-needles-map.gif

Bill pointed out that “no hiker should rely on the maps in any guidebook”. His book clearly states that it is to be used with a proper map.

Happily, I had bought a map at the trailhead. But when I opened my $3 Trails Illustrated Canyonlands-Needles National Park … I found it also left off the backcountry campsites.

You need to buy the $10 Trails Illustrated, Canyonlands National Park – Maze District of the entire Park if you want to be able to locate your campsite.

Bill explained, ” … listing designated campsites is a moving target for guidebook authors. Virtually every year, the NPS has to change campsite locations, close campsites, open new campsites, etc. for management reasons, but a guidebook is in print for many years.”

I sheepishly asked each hiker I met if they had any idea where I could find my campsite.

Despite my problems, we’ll be recommending Hiking Canyonlands and Arches National Parks. And I look forward to 3rd edition improvements. In the meantime, I recommend Falcon check some of the best hiking guidebooks in the world for inspiration.

Moab, Utah – living a lie?

I went to Moab to hike.

moab-green.jpgWhen I told other tourists that Moab had been awarded a major environmental award as a “green town” they thought I was joking.

Located on the Colorado River near the state line between Utah and Colorado, is the 4-square mile City of Moab. A desert oasis, the 5,000 or so Moab residents host over a million tourists annually. Visitors come to enjoy the adjacent National Parks Arches and Canyonlands, the Dead Horse Point State Park as well as biking, hiking, water sports and gorgeous vistas.

To most tourists who pass through Moab annually, it’s a hot, noisy highway lined with junky, over-priced souvenir shops.

Moab is perhaps less known for being the Nation’s first EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) Green Power Community and a steward for clean energy. Under the leadership of Mayor Dave Sakrison, the town began purchasing wind power for 50% of the City Office building electricity demand in 2003. Local electricity customers were encouraged to purchase pollution-free wind energy through Utah Power’s Blue Sky voluntary wind program. As a result Moab became the region’s first Blue Sky Community.

Desert City Leads Utah Clean Energy Movement (TreeHugger)

I hope Mayor Sakrison is not buying his own press. If Moab is the model of a town of the future, we are all in trouble.

Moab reminds me more of Mad Max than a desert oasis. The road warriors here ride gas guzzling jeeps. Or modified Hummers if they can afford the rental.

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Highpointhummer.com

Another opinion:

Can’t say I am thrilled to be in Moab other than to get my final resupply box and get out of town. Never much cared for this place despite trying to like it. The community here is great, certainly friendly folks, but something about the constant marketing vibe that runs through town just bugs me…Adventure This! and Adventure That! Extreme! I know it is a tourist based economy and one that caters to thrill seekers (whether motorized or not) but it just is a bit over the top.

ULA – Hayduke Trail 2005

I’m overstating the problems. Likely Moab is on the right track. The boom there is relatively recent.

If you turn off the highway into town you’ll find great school grounds, fantastic bike trails, an award winning library. And some amazing facilities for a town of this size.

If you are ready to pack up and move to Moab, speak up and leave a comment.

Buttes, Mesas and Tepuis

The buttes and mesas of the Colorado Plateau remind me of those other “islands in the sky” — the tepuis of South America.

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tepui art – CanyonsWorldwide.com

I’d really love to climb Roraima in Venezuela:

• bordering Venezuela, Brazil & Guyana, Roraima is remote
• it’s in the world’s largest national park — Canaima
• the highest tepui at 2810m (9219ft)
• 6-day, 5-night round trip trek to the summit
• no mountaineering skill or gear needed
• the impressive Prow of Roraima was not climbed until 1973
• unique dreamscape at the top: weird rocks, gorges & gardens
• a full day needed to explore on high
• many unique species found only atop tepuis
• inspiration for Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s The Lost World
• same trip visit nearby Angel Falls, world’s highest 979m (3212ft)

Our Roraima information page.

Moab Photography Symposium

I was in town for the Moab Photo Symposium.

Talking to some of the attendees reminded me of the difference between real photographers and myself. They are willing to WAIT for the right shot.

(I merely take pictures of whatever happens along while I am hiking.)

Still, the gap between real photographers and the rest of us is narrowing due to the decreased cost of digital equipment.

Check out their 2006 photo contest winners.

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DO NOT BUY Adventure 16 Firefly Liquid Light

I rushed out and bought this innovative product — a Nalgene bottle lantern — as soon as I heard about.

Having used it on my last hiking trip, my score is 2.0 out of 10.

A great idea, very badly executed.

There are several problems:

• special tool needed to attach the lantern lid to the bottle
• special screwdriver needed to change batteries
• it’s too heavy
• you are asked NOT to put the top in water
• it gives surprisingly little light

Would someone please manufacture a light-weight, washable version?
(It’s a water bottle, for cripes sake!)

And how many people are going to carry special tools for it on the trail?
(I actually had one. The eyeglass screwdriver from my Swiss Army Knife worked.)

==== original post March 20, 2007

gear I need NOW – water bottle lantern

Adventure 16 Firefly Liquid Light - grey

This nifty little device acts first as the lid to a bottle of water. Press a button, however, and the lid emits an “integrated LED light” which turns the water bottle into an instant lantern. Hang it from a tree and you’ve got enough light to play that game of cards around the campfire.

Things can get really funky if the bottle is full of green Gatorade or pink lemonade. Just don’t fill it full of chunky soup.

Price: US$21.95

Turn your Water Bottle into a Lantern – Gadling

Adventure 16 Firefly Liquid Light – grey – Amazon

hiking reservations on Recreation.gov

I just tried using the new Recreation.gov website to book a campground in the USA.

A bit “clunky”. Fairly slow.

But at least it seems to work.

The history of government National Park websites is a sad one. But they are slowly, slowly getting better.

Recreation.gov is now the place for all your federal recreation reservations

Be assured that all of your existing reservations remain in good standing, though they cannot be displayed or cancelled from this new website …

New Membership required to make reservations

You will need a Recreation.gov Membership to book reservations on this new website.
You cannot sign-in with your old ReserveUSA.com or Reservations.NPS.gov membership.

About Us – Recreation.gov

recreationgov.jpg

Leave a comment if you have had any experience with this system.

coffee on the trail

Like Russ at Trailcraft, I need coffee in the morning when I’m hiking.

He’s recommending a new one on me:

The Press-Bot Coffee Press by ventureDESIGNworks made great coffee. In fact, everyone in the group enjoyed it. The only complaint was that it was occasionally difficult to remove from the Nalgene bottle. …

As an added bonus, the PRESS-BOT only weighs 2.8 ounces!

Coffee Nalgene Style

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nestlelaitconcentratetubepa.jpgNo doubt Russ will be mortified with my preferred hiking coffee “system”. I buy tubes of Nestle sweetened condensed milk and mix it with instant coffee. Fast, easy and … surprisingly delicious.

In fact, I’ve even tried the coffee flavoured sweetened condensed milk. (Not nearly as good.)

This product is available throughout South America, in Australia and Europe. But I’ve not yet found it in Canada or the USA.

Leave a comment if you know where I can get it in North America.

(via Two-Heel Drive)