hike the Aurland Trail, Norway

I cannot find much information on-line regarding the Aurland Trail in Norway.

I understand 30,000 hikers a year walk sections between Vassbygdi, Geiteryggen and further toward Hallingdal on an old East – West trail.

kz7.jpgI enjoyed a well written trip report by Kathleen Hill Zichy. Part of her Travels with Wally series. (Wally is a Kiwi hiking guide.)

The hikes were spectacular and strenuous. Wally provided encouragement and a bit of light-hearted humor in an accent both charming and perplexing. Certain expressions had to be repeated several times before I could decipher them. He frequently powered out on the trail and then looped back to find the rest of us. As I was the least experienced hiker, Wally was elected by his co-leaders to the position of my guardian. He did so in a gentle and unobtrusive way that did not mark me as a quivering novice but gave me a little boost in confidence when I was facing a major drop-off or was lagging behind on the downhill.

I had never seen so much rock. We scrambled, stumbled, mumbled, crawled, held on by our fingernails as we slid over cliffs on the British Route, desperately clutching the famous cable-and hoping fervently that our insurance was paid up. At the bottom of the cliff after that hair-raising slide, we were greeted by a small party of Norwegian hikers. An older woman in that group with hair pulled back and greying at the temples asked me what I thought of my descent down the cable. “There’s nothing like that in Manhattan,” I replied. “We usually take the elevator.”

“This is the toughest hiking trail in all of Norway,”
she informed me. Her statement was confirmed within minutes when we encountered a man with his head wrapped in bloody bandages, being led to the end of the trail by two fellow backpackers. …

The Long Trip Home: Archives

Unfortunately, the natural environment there has been much affected by hydroelectric development:

… the great waterfalls in the Aurlandsdalen have been silenced. The standing waves, spray and mist from the rapids and waterfalls has been substantially reduced. Due to diversion through tunnels, the water level in the river gorges is drastically reduced; dams restrain the thundering inferno that filled the gorges before the development. There are impacts beyond the loss of scenic beauty as well. The Aurlandselvi river is no longer one of the finest salmon rivers in Norway. Farmers no longer drive cattle, pigs and goats to spend the summer at Østerbø and Stemberdalen. The pack horses, formerly a common sight in the valley, as Jon Fimreite and Knut Sønnerheim among others transported provisions and supplies to Steinbergdalshytta and Østerbø, have become part of history.

Aurlandsdalen has become like the most of the other valleys, characterized by traffic, tourists and gradual urbanisation. Only the remote Nesbø-Vassbygdi region remains mostly undisturbed, if one ignores the strong reduction in the water flow in the Aurlandselvi and the visible stretch of highway between Berdalstunnellen (Berdal tunnel) and Nesbøtunnellen (Nesbø tunnel) visible in the hillside from the path at Heimrebø.

Power development and environmental impacts – Wikipedia

There are plenty of pretty pictures tagged Aurland on flickr. Here’s my favourite:

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Aurland downtown – larger original on flickrTom (Aurland resident)

related post – WOW – Aurland Lookout, Norway

trekking in Afghanistan?

I’d love to get to Afghanistan for hiking.

This article from the Time’s Online says it’s only for the very adventurous at this point:

Afghanistan is bursting with potential as a future tourist destination. Its mountains could rival Nepal as a trekking destination, while Silk Road cities like Herat with their brightly tiled mosques are the match of more celebrated rivals like Samarkand or Isfahan. The jewelled lakes of Band-e Amir are itching to have feet dipped in them. Nomads lead their camel caravans past the broken remains of tanks. The promise is there, and Afghans and travellers alike are just waiting for the right moment to finally return.

How to holiday in Afghanistan | Asia – Times Online

Of course the late, great Eric Newby went in dangerous times. One of my favourite hiking books:

A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush

A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush – Amazon

Everest Rocks 2007

My first reaction to “rock musicians on Everest” … ah, another media stunt.

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Yet they look entirely serious. Very well organized.

Perhaps this will help the Nepalese trekking industry too, which is again threatened by Maoist rebels.

They are getting big-time media attention: USA Today, MSNBC Music, SKY News, BBC and more.

… our most momentous climb and concert benefiting The Nepal Cancer Relief Society (NCRS). Cancer survivors and co founders of the Love Hope Strength Foundation (LHSF) Mike Peters and James Chippendale will lead 40 musicians, cancer survivors and mountaineers to Base Camp to perform an acoustic concert to help the Bhaktapur Cancer Hospital build the infrastructure of its clinic, NCRS, by providing them with much needed equipment and funding. In a country where the Avg. annual income is $300 a year our donation and support is going a long way to save lives NOW.

… The entire journey will be captured by a documentary team headed by Alex Coletti (the acclaimed producer of MTV’s ‘Unplugged’ series). The taping will include the training, kickoff events, trek and base camp acoustic set. …

Everest Rocks 2007

And we can even apply to join their trekking support team for future Love Hope Strength events like this.

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trekking route – map

WOW – Aurland Lookout, Norway

Somehow I stumbled on to some photos by Todd Saunders (one of the architects) and they really took me by surprise. This unique destination opened 2006 and I had not heard of it until now.

At first glance I thought this was the Grand Canyon Skywalk we’ve written about before, but this is much cooler, I think.

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It’s the Aurland Lookout in Aurland, Norway. True Scandinavian design — think IKEA tourism, with a dash of Tony Hawk thrown in.

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The design makes it seem as if you can fall right off if you continue walking to the end, but in reality a sheet of plate glass protects would-be daredevils from sliding off the edge into the woods.

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Amazing Views of Norway at the Aurland Lookout – Gadling – Justin Glow – more photos

new website for Trail Divas

We are building this site to help other women have the confidence to be outside. It can be confusing getting into hiking and backpacking. Many books, websites and gear are aimed at men, with women getting the dregs. Yet, out on the trails, women are becoming stronger in numbers every year. We want to show other women that you can love the dirt, find some peace and maybe, just maybe get your kids out there with you.

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What are Trail Divas?

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trekking the Sinai, Egypt

Mohamed Mabrouk recommends one of his favourite hikes:

ALGALT is a beautiful pool up the mountains in Sinai passing through some of the most beautiful wadis between Sinai mountains. Licensed Bedouin guides (obligatory by St Katherine Protectorate) and Cameleers (porters there carry with their camels) are professional and punctual.

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The trail is just beautiful that I wonder why not many around the world are jumping on it when it has all the necessary facilities and hikers attractions. Perhaps Red Sea diving towns such as Sharm and Dahab are overshadowing it.

I am sending two photos from the Circuit that starts and ends in St Katherine’s town (WHS by UNESCO) where the Byzantine Monastery is situated.

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I hate to admit it. I went to Dahab in the 1990s. Did the standard overnight camel-into-the-desert adventure. And did not hike.

Next time …

I like Mohamed’s email tag line too:

I might sound like a crazy dreamer but.. only crazy dreamers can come up with ideas like the Egyptian pyramids!

video – Kintaro Walks Japan

Not much of a thru-hiking story, none the less I recommend this light-hearted, comic adventure.

Kintaro Walks Japan is a documentary film produced and directed by Tyler MacNiven. It is an account of MacNiven’s journey walking and backpacking the entire length of Japan from KyÅ«shÅ« to Hokkaidō, more than 2000 miles in 145 days.

MacNiven cited three reasons for the journey. On his first trip to Japan in 2002, he fell in love with the country. It was on this trip that a friend nicknamed him “Kintaro,” which means “Golden Boy,” because of his blond hair. Occasionally accompanying him on the trip was his girlfriend, Ayumi Meegan, whose father, George Meegan, completed the longest unbroken walk in recorded history – a nearly 7 year sojourn from the southern tip of Argentina to the northern tip of Alaska. Inspired by their story, MacNiven conceived of the task after learning that his father, whose parents were foreign missionaries, was born in an unknown location in Hokkaidō. Armed with a desire to impress Ayumi and find his father’s birthplace, as well as an interest in Japanese culture, MacNiven set sail to Japan. …

Kintaro Walks Japan – Wikipedia

You can watch the movie for free on Google Video (67min). Or buy it on Tyler’s official website .

Here’s a very short sample …

Kintaro Walks Japan

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Kintaro Walks Japan – official website

(via Jaman)

custom made sleeping bag – Kluane Mountaineering

I really should get a new bag. Perhaps -5C.

Ewen from Outdoor Video Magazine recommends a Canadian company, Kluane.

He describes his good experience getting them to make him a custom down jacket.

As for their sleeping bags:

Kluane built its reputation on the quality of its sleeping bags and Kluane down sleeping bags are, we believe, the finest obtainable anywhere. No other sleeping bag offers all the design and construction features found on Kluane bags.

Consider the following: Hot cutting (we use heat to cut our material so the seams will not fray); 1.9 oz. ripstop nylon (not as light as others, but it will last a long time)

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800 loft Canadian white goose down; heavy duty YKK delrin two-way zips; nylon tricot baffles (again, not as light as others, but we have never had a returned product because of baffle failure); heavy double zipper baffles, channel block baffle and differential cut (except Inner, Summerthought and rectangular bags) and hidden stitching (there are only two exposed seams in the whole bag).

Sleeping Bags – Kluane

I will be up at their home base in Edmonton in a couple of weeks to check them out.