hill walking the Glendorragha Horseshoe, Ireland

to Hell or Connacht

The Act for the Settlement of Ireland imposed penalties including death and land confiscation … (after) the Irish Rebellion of 1641.

In Ireland they remember Cromwell. They still recall him declaring that Catholic Irish landowners must go, “to Hell or to Connacht“, west of the River Shannon. Whether he said it, or not.

Today rough Connacht has fantastic hill walking. The weather is a challenge.

Click PLAY or watch one man’s Horseshoe on YouTube.

A 7-hour hike of The Glendorragha Horseshoe, in the Nephin Beg mountain range of County Mayo, West of Ireland. At 698 m, Birreencorragh is the highest point of the Horseshoe.

My man Mike, who grew up in the region, wants 8-10hrs for that a nearby route, the Binnlettery/Glencoaghan Horseshoe in the twelve Binns or Beanna Beola area. He declares his Horseshoe the “best day hike in Ireland”.

John Muir Trail by night

James Vlahos in National Geographic:

… It’s midnight when I emerge from the forest atop a plateau beneath an infinite canopy of blackness and stars. The terrain ahead glows under the moon as if lit from within. Moving slowly, I cross a meadow and pass clusters of wizened mountain hemlocks. To the right something glimmers white, drawing me magnetically. Soon I stand transfixed by reflected moonlight that sweeps across an alpine lake to the base of a snowy massif. A light breeze drops to nothing, ripples in the lake go still, and the light coalesces into the single dot of the moon, the water around the reflection so placid that it reveals the pinpricks of stars.

This view at Island Pass in California’s High Sierra is sublime and rarely witnessed, too, though not for lack of hiker traffic. Every summer hundreds of people follow the route I’m hiking the John Muir Trail (JMT), which runs for 211 glorious miles from the base of Half Dome in the Yosemite Valley to the top of Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48. En route are a dozen major passes, alpine lakes photographed by Ansel Adams, and granite whipped skyward like the surface of a giant lemon meringue pie. The trail is well loved—too well loved, if you value unbroken solitude in the wilderness. But almost nobody sees Island Pass like this, when scenery that’s merely pretty during the day becomes downright magical at night.

I’ve made moonlit hikes before, out-and-back walks of only a few miles. Those jaunts were so memorable that I was inspired this past summer to tackle the entire JMT that way. My plan was to sync my movements to the rise and set of the moon, which would typically encompass late afternoon, dusk, and several hours of moonlit night. …

read more – Star Trek: Yosemite to the Moon

Check our besthike JOHN MUIR TRAIL information page.

(via The Goat)

climbing Croagh Patrick, Ireland

The most popular mountain on the island, perhaps 100,000 attempt the summit each year. St Patrick offers Holy Water at the trailhead.

Croagh Patrick (Irish: Cruach Phádraig), nicknamed the Reek, is a 764 metres (2,507 ft) tall mountain and an important site of pilgrimage in County Mayo, Republic of Ireland.

It is 8 kilometres (5 mi) from Westport, above the villages of Murrisk and Lecanvey. It is the third highest mountain in County Mayo after Mweelrea and Nephin. On “Reek Sunday“, the last Sunday in July every year, over 15,000 pilgrims climb it (some barefoot) …

Saint Patrick reputedly fasted on the summit of Croagh Patrick for forty days in the fifth century and built a church there. Popular legend says that at the end of Patrick’s 40-day fast, he threw a silver bell down the side of the mountain, knocking the she-demon Corra from the sky and banishing all the snakes from Ireland. …

This small chapel dates back to 1905.

St. Paddy camped here. I left a Summit Stone as a token of respect for his good works.

Because many amateur, under dressed non-hikers make the pilgrimage, there are more incidents on this peak than any other on the Emerald Isle.

I was in good hands, guided by Mike from the Mayo Mountain Rescue Team.

More photos from our day hike.

The other big celebrity attraction of the remote, rugged region is John Wayne. He filmed The Quiet Man (1952) here. Cong’s gorgeous Ashford Castle, featured in the film, is the centre of the tourist hub bub.

Gullfoss (Golden Falls) Iceland

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Of the many wonderful waterfalls of Iceland, these were the most impressive I saw.

They seem to suddenly disappear into the earth.

Gullfoss (English: Golden Falls) is a waterfall located in the canyon of Hvítá river in southwest Iceland.

Gullfoss is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the country. The wide Hvítá rushes southward. About a kilometer above the falls it turns sharply to the left and flows down into a wide curved three-step “staircase” and then abruptly plunges in two stages …

This is early season, yet the observation deck already seems near the breaking point.

I hiked down the river a ways to take in the vista from more of a distance.

See the rest of my Gullfoss photos.

More interesting photos tagged Gullfoss on flickr.

… there is another must see attraction near Gullfoss, the original Geysir. You can skip it. Go to Yellowstone, instead.

Iceland waterfall Skógafoss

Skógafoss (pronounced [ˈskou.aˌfɔs]) is a waterfall situated in the south of Iceland at the cliffs of the former coastline. After the coastline had receded seaward … the former sea cliffs remained, parallel to the coast over hundreds of kilometres, creating together with some mountains a clear border between the coastal lowlands and the Highlands of Iceland.

It’s difficult to take a bad photo of these falls on a nice day.

See the birds nesting on the cliff walls.

… Due to the amount of spray the waterfall consistently produces, a single or double rainbow is normally visible on sunny days. …

See the rest of my Skógafoss photos.

… At the eastern side of the waterfall, a hiking and trekking trail leads up to the pass Fimmvörðuháls between the glaciers Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. It goes down to Þórsmörk on the other side and continues as the famous Laugavegur to Landmannalaugar.

Sob. That’s the trek I came to Iceland to complete. But a harsh Spring resulted in it opening too late for me. … I’ll have to return to Iceland another time.

Látrabjarg bird cliffs, Iceland

The major bird cliffs of Iceland ranked #1 on a Lonely Planet list of the greatest wildlife spectacles worldwide.

1. Látrabjarg bird cliffs, Iceland

The famed white cliff s of Dover get their hue from the chalk stratum. At Látrabjarg, the very far western extremity of Iceland (and Europe), the rock faces – some over 400m high, and about 12km along – aren’t naturally white. When you hear that these cliff s host the summer roosts of millions of seabirds, you’ll guess what those stains are: an unbelievable quantity of guano. The swirling, squawking cacophony of puffins, razorbills, guillemots, fulmars, cormorants and kittiwakes is extraordinary; even if you’re not into birdwatching, the comic antics of the puffins and the sheer scale of the mob are mesmerizing.

Access is easiest with a car, though a bus runs three times weekly from June to August from Isafjordur, the Westfjords region’s main town. …

see more of The greatest wildlife spectacles

Click PLAY or see a feature YouTube.

There’s a wonderful hike along the cliff top.

Þingvellir National Park, Iceland

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Historical hiking.

Þingvellir is a site of historical, cultural, and geological importance and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Iceland. It is the site of a rift valley that marks the crest of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge.

Due to acoustics, historians feel this rift is the most likely spot for people to assemble.

… Parliament or Alþingi was established at Þingvellir in 930 and remained there until 1789. …

It’s speculated that Clan Chieftains from across the island met here regularly for a 2wk Assembly.

I quite enjoyed wandering the area, imagining times past, ancient and modern.

See more photos.

Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon, Iceland

Jökulsárlón (lit. “Glacier Lagoon”) is the largest glacier lagoon or lake in Iceland.

… it evolved into a lagoon after the glacier started receding from the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. The lake has grown since then at varying rates because of melting of the Icelandic glaciers. The lagoon now stands 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi) away from the ocean’s edge and covers an area of about 18 km2 (6.9 sq mi). …

The size of the lagoon has increased fourfold since the 1970s. It is considered as one of the natural wonders of Iceland.

tourism promo photo

Some are ash covered, from recent eruption.

… The Jökulsárlón lagoon provides outstanding views of the Ice Cap, which is a vast dome of ice that rises to a height of 3,000 feet (910 m). It spills to the lagoon 12 miles (19 km) away from the jagged glacier hill to the edge of the water line. …

Iceland is a photographer’s dream. And this lagoon may just be the single most photogenic site on the island.

I do love icebergs.

click for larger image

Don’t miss the ocean shoreline, the other side of the bridge, far less visited than the lagoon.

See more photos of this incredible place.