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Markha trek, Ladakh – day 0

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | info page

I flew Delhi to Leh in September (the best month) to circumambulate the most famous mountain in the area, Stok Kangri.

LehAT A GLANCE

  • the most popular hike in Ladahk, northern India, bordering Tibet
  • easy access out of Leh
  • 6-8 days
  • 111km (69mi)
  • early June to mid-October
  • moderate-demanding
  • big risk of altitude sickness
  • 2-3 high passes (4900m-5200m)
  • several nights at very high altitude
  • sleep in tent or in “homestays”
  • frequent flights from Delhi. Infrequent flights from Srinagar and Jammu.
  • hike independently or with a Guide
  • check the confusing tourist visa requirements for India. Some nations can get a visa-on-arrival at airports.

Nobody speaks about hiking distance in the Himalaya. Only altitude truly matters. Markha ranges from 3190m – 5287m.

Acclimation is critical.

I spent 3 nights in dusty, cluttered Leh. And a 4th day cycling from the highest road pass – 38kms back to town.

I was hoping 4 days would be long enough to successfully start from Stok, rather than the usual place – Zingchen.

click for larger version

I’ll leave my luggage locked up in a Leh hotel. And try for a solo, independent, tenting week in the high mountains.

Wish me luck. 🙂

See all my high resolution photos from this day on flickr.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | info page

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The Trail – Ray Anderson

Scheduled for publication October 27, 2015. I’ll be buying it immediately. 🙂

The Trail Anderson Paul Leroux is a serial killer wanted for murdering women in North Carolina. When the police start to catch up with Leroux, he panics and decides to escape to Canada on the Appalachian Trail, where thru-hikers use trail names and travel anonymously.

Leroux, who is overweight and unhealthy, struggles at first on the trail but begins to relax as he gets stronger and can utilize the physical changes he gains from his intense hiking as a disguise. His urge to kill, however, is invigorated by the nearness of female hikers, and his intention to stay away from them on his trip begins to weaken.

His life is further complicated when Desert Storm veteran Karl Bergman, who is also trying to escape his own failure, becomes suspicious of Leroux and begins to pay careful attention to his every move.

Leroux becomes increasingly panicked as he realizes that both Bergman and the police are close on his tail as he races to the border hoping to find a haven with his Canadian family. In this cat-and-mouse thriller, Ray Anderson dives inside two men’s minds as they struggle to fight their identities and confront their fears and internal turmoil.

Amazon

Ray Anderson is a thru hiker who goes by the name Hamlet. He was inspired to write this book on a dark, stormy night while walking the Appalachian Trail in 2003.

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Cocuy Circuit, Colombia

Cam was warned off this (supposedly) dangerous part of the world. But decided to go anyway based on local information.

The Colombian Andes.

The most northern part of the world’s longest mountain range.

The hiking highlight of this month’s trip to the region was a circuit of the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy …

59 miles (95 km approx.) …

Cocuy Circuit | Colombia, 2015

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related – best website – pnncocuy.com

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camping stoves compared

Chris Townsend was the first hiking guru I read.

He’s used dozens of different stoves in the wild, comparing them in a long opinion piece:

… lighting a stove. Some come with Piezo igniters – in my experience these break after a while. I’d never rely on just one type of lighter anyway. I always carry at least two – a fire steel and a lighter and/or matches. …

Choosing a stove is as much about choosing the fuel as choosing a burner. The availability of fuel, how long a given amount lasts and how well it works in different conditions are all factors to take into consideration. …

The main fuels are butane/propane, white gas (Coleman Fuel and similar), and methylated spirits (meths)/alcohol. Less commonly used are petrol/gasoline, paraffin/kerosene, diesel, solid fuel and wood. Some stoves are multi-fuel, which can be a big advantage. The heat output from butane/propane, white gas, petrol and paraffin is similar but meths/alcohol is much less powerful so more fuel has to be carried. …

STOVES FOR WILD CAMPING

Click through his advice.

Stoves-1

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hike northern Albania

Volunteers are building 130km of trails around the remote village of Curraj Eperm.

Albania trails

It’s part of a non-profit, student project called the Albanian Challenge (www.albanianchallenge.cz).

The village is cut off from the rest of the world. In fact it takes two days to walk there.

Highlights include caves, waterfalls and peaks  3000m high. Typical Albanian culture (food, architecture and customs) will be of interest to foreign visitors.

Click PLAY or watch a promo video on YouTube.

The Albanian Challenge was launched after the town lost its bridge in a flood. Increased tourism will help with the rebuilding effort.

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Shawnte Salabert – on hiking

… The last mile to camp is always a drag. Almost always. Or always. I could be strolling through a wonderland of gold and diamonds and chocolate fountains and unicorns, but moving like an uninspired sloth. My feet are tired. My butt is gently chafed. I need nutrients.

In camp, I immediately engage in some sort of polite battle with fellow tent-pitchers over The Best Spot. “No, you pick first.” “No, no – you pick.” I invariably choose one that seems flat and windless. Seems.

Time for water math. Do I have enough? Should I filter tonight or in the morning? How much should I grab for dinner? …

A DAY ON THE PCT IN THE HIGH SIERRA

tent

Kolby brought this excellent blog to my attention. 🙂 I’m now subscribed.

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Malta Coastal walk

Walkopedia recommends Malta Coastal walk (155km) as one of the best hikes in the world:

Outstanding sea views
Unspoiled natural environment
Dramatic cliffs
Azure window and Inland sea
Archaeological remains
Tranquil countryside
Forts, towers and churches
Diversity of habitats and plants

The best months for walking are in spring (March to June) and autumn (Mid-September to December). …

Malta Coast Walk