girls love Paine Circuit, Patagonia, Chile

Recently a friend asked for a “best hike” recommendation for a female hiker, possibly travelling alone. She is very experienced with many serious treks completed in Europe and the States.

Immediately we suggested The Towers of Paine in Chile.

Paine is well policed and maintained. It is safe. No need to speak Spanish, though it helps.

As evidence, we link to a charming and entertaining trip report from two young women who just completed the most demanding itinerary, the Circuit. They LOVED it:

HIGHLIGHTS:

* Ascending John Garner Pass for a devastatingly beautiful view of Glacier Grey below on one side and Lago Paine on the other. I moment I will never forget.

* Eating chocolate surrounded by the Valle de Frances

* Seeing three shooting stars cross the Milky Way and a comet (and I was totally sober), whilst lying on a swing bridge, with a very energetic river flowing below us

* Drinking Pisco with Cowboys in the sunshine

* Making friends with Porters (Sherpas) and sharing our walks with them

* Watching ice bergs float past our tent whilst making a lovely cuppa tea snuggled up in my sleeping bag!

* That Condor moment! Seeing Condors sore majestically above the snowy peaks of Torres del Paine

* That vegetarian sandwich at Camp Chileno!

* The best drinking water in the world on tap! (We drank only the water that flowed through the Parque; no boiling no purification tabs). Ah, agua nectar!

* Realising what we thought may have been a clap of thunder and so the start of a wet day was only another ice berg making a splash into Lago Grey.

* Realising what we thought may have been another clap of thunder was merely another avalanche in the Valle del Frances.

* Meeting the boys from Ecuador at Camp Japonese (a camp only for climbers).

* The satisfaction of completing The Circuit when a lot of the locals thought we may be clinically insane!

Sophs in South America: Torres del Paine Circuit, Southern Patagonia, Chile.

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organize a trip to Paine, Chile – besthike.com

“Peru Gets Tough On Tourist Attacks”

Rick McCharles

The Adventure Blog posted on an MSNBC.com report on “Peru cracking town on attacks against tourists”.

This caught my interest as I was on the Huayhuash Circuit in Peru in 2004 when an Israeli trekker was shot and killed by bandits.

A new law passed by the Peruvian congress make the maximum penalty for murder or severely injuring a tourist is now life in prison. The law covers both foreign and Peruvian tourists visiting sites in their own country. Armed robbery against tourists is fairly common in the country and in 2005 there was a fairly well publicized event in which 13 tourists on the Inca Trail were robbed. Since then, the goverment has begun getting tough on crimes against tourists, even taking the step to patrol the Inca Trail and increasing the security presence at Machu Picchu.

The Adventure Blog: Peru Gets Tough On Tourist Attacks

Peru could be the best hiking destination in the world. … Could be.

But we’d recommend you hike New Zealand instead if security is a big concern.

Kokoda Trail – Papua New Guinea

Kokoda is one of the great (difficult!) established walks of the world. We got a strong endorsement for the lead guiding company from one of our Aussie contributors who joined one of their tours in 2006.

That company is Kokoda Trail Adventures.

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The Kokoda Trail is one of the world’s great treks, linking the southern and northern coast of Papua New Guinea, it is a challenge to be enjoyed by the fit bushwalker. …

The 96 km Kokoda trail passes through rugged mountainous country of rainforest, jungles of fern, orchids, birds and clean mountain streams which tumble into steep valleys.

The unspoilt villages throughout the Kokoda Track will welcome you and the Koiari and Orokaiva people will greet you with smiles and tempt you with seasonal fruit and vegetables.

Visit Kokoda and enjoy the adventure of your lifetime.

Kokoda Trail Adventures

It’s tough, even if you have porters carry your packs.

But it’s popular. Kokoda guided only 24 hikers in 2000. But in 2006 they led 850. (more stats)

It may be time to start planning a trip to PNG. No independent hiking is allowed, so far as we know.

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hikers and guides at the Isurava Monument

start packing for Nepal

Newsvine tipped us to this NYT article.

(Not that we were worried about the Maoist terrorists in the past.)

WITH political stability returning to Nepal, so too are adventure-oriented travel companies, many of which had discontinued their trips to the country over the last few years.

For the first time since 2002, Country Walkers, based in Waterbury, Vt., is returning to the Himalayan nation of Nepal with special tours in the fall, said to be the ideal time for trekking in the region.

Other outfitters, like Mountain Travel Sobek of Emeryville, Calif., and Wilderness Travel of Berkeley, Calif. — which had halted all trips but those to the Khumba or Everest regions in the northeast — are now offering trips to the Annapurna region in central Nepal. Mountain Travel Sobek is also starting treks to the remote Dolpo and Humla regions in the northwest, which they deemed off limits because of the political unrest.

After more than 10 years of bitter conflict, the Nepalese government signed a peace deal with Maoist rebels in November. …

And Maoists have stopped collecting money from tourists along trekking routes.

… GEOGRAPHIC EXPEDITIONS, which continued to operate trips to Nepal during the unrest but only to the Kathmandu region, is planning two new excursions. One, a rigorous 27-day trek through the Kingdom of the Mustang in the spring and fall, starts at $4,695 a person for a group of eight people. Another 31-day trek, Around Manaslu, to be offered in the fall, starts at $4,995 a person for eight people.

There are some added benefits to being among the first tourists to return to Nepal. “For the moment,” said Mr. Steigerwald, “it’s really a treat to be there without crowds.”

As Political Unrest Eases, Travel Picks Up – New York Times

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Snowman Trek, Bhutan

Rogier Gruys is an expert on the West Coast Trail in Canada, the hike we rated #1 in the world. Rogier’s BluePeak Travel Photography pics of the WCT are still the best we’ve ever seen.

But Rogier likes the Snowman Trek even better.

Very few have ever done that long Himalayan trek (minimum 19 days) due to high cost (US$200 / day) and high risk.

The Snowman trek is the most difficult trek in Bhutan because one has to walk and camp at high altitude for nearly three weeks. As long as one has no problems with the high altitude and the weather is good, it is not a particularly difficult trek. But, if something were to happen along the way, someone would have to carry you down to the nearest house, or try to find a telephone to get a helicopter from Thimphu. Both are often several days’ walk. Initially, many people planned and wanted to go with us on the trek, but in the end they all bailed out and only two of us went.

Snowman trek description, Bhutan

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BluePeak photo – high resolution version – flickr

Rogier recommends the Cicerone guidebook. It’s essential advanced reading for anyone considering trekking in Bhutan.

A Trekker's Guide (Cicerone)

Bhutan: A Trekker’s Guide (Cicerone)

books on ultralight Backpacking

The two most popular books on Amazon.com right now are:

  • 1) The Ultralight Backpacker : The Complete Guide to Simplicity and Comfort on the Trail, Ryel Kestenbaum, 2001
  • 2) Lighten Up!: A Complete Handbook for Light and Ultralight Backpacking (Falcon Guide), Don Ladigin, 2005
  • Of the two, I prefer the Ladigin as it is more accessible to beginners, friendlier in format and … weighs only 8oz. (It’s published by Falcon, a company we often criticize on this site. Good job with this book.)

    A Complete Handbook for Light and Ultralight Backpacking

    Lighten Up!: A Complete Handbook for Light and Ultralight Backpacking (Falcon Guide)

    In Australia I was surprised to see the vast majority of hikers with heavy, traditional (out-of-date) gear. The lightweight movement clearly has not reached Down Under.

    Experienced ultralight hikers will find more of interest on-line. But the inexpensive Ladigin book would be an ideal gift for any hiker you know who could easily reduce the size of their base pack weight.

    best bear-proof food container?

    There are a number of bear canisters on the market. Be aware that the list of “approved” canisters changes. For the latest information on bear canisters approved by the National Park Service</a.

    For tips on how to pack your canister, read The Care and Feeding of Your Bear Canister by Tom Reynolds.

    Pacific Crest Trail Association – Bears

    Cramming 18 pounds of food into a canister may, at first, seem impossible. However, following these instructions and a little planning and patience will accomplish the task.

    source – Tom Reynolds

    I am most interested in the “Ursack”, myself. (I could have used one in Australia to keep out pesky possums.)

    there’s no such thing as quicksand – right?

    It’s just a movie invention.

    That’s what I thought until I stumbled into quicksand in Paria Canyon, Utah.

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    It sucked.

    I had no problem getting out. Moving slowly, trying to float. But cattle regularly get trapped and die in the American canyon country.

    More information:

    Quicksand – wikipedia

    Quicksand – How Stuff Works

    2006 Photo Contest Winners @ National Geographic Traveler

    Agh.

    This photo freaks me out.

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    John Dranchak, Long Beach, California

    It was a Merit Prize winner in the most recent National Geographic contest chosen from 15,000 entries.

    John Dranchak—until recently, an aerospace engineer in Long Beach, California—took this image in Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia, where he was traveling with friends. Dranchak says the guide is holding onto his friend’s belt to keep him from falling into the water.

    “I was afraid to go down there and stand in that crevasse,” he says. “I walked up to the top of the ridge, and I thought, ‘This is just gorgeous.’ The colors of the image caught my eye.”

    2006 Photo Contest Winners @ National Geographic Traveler

    See the rest of the winning photos.

    (via Adventure Blog)

    trekking to Everest – recommended

    Baxter Gillespie is just back from 3 weeks walking to a trekking peak in the Himalayas.

    Yes he encountered the Maoist rebels.

    Yes he still recommends Nepal.

    In fact, Baxter is planning to return next season to bag another peak.

    Our plan was to carry all our own equipment but to hire a guide and stay in the guest houses for the three week trip to the 18,192′ summit of Kala Pataar which overlooks Everest Base Camp.

    Over the course of the trip our guide, Depak, became a great friend and ambassador to his mountain world.

    The Nepali people were very open and taught us much about their culture. The scenery was overwhelming. Even after seeing photos of the Himalayas for years, I was awed by the magnitude when viewing them in person. …

    The trip turned out to be a fantastic experience. We had incredible adventures from snake charmers in Kathmandu to dealing with Maoist rebels on the trail and bargaining with Tibetan traders in the town of Namche City. We are completely hooked on traveling in Nepal and are now planning a more technical climbing trip back for next Fall.

    If you are even contemplating going to Nepal, do it. I’ll see you there next year!

    Backcountry Blog: Nepal Trek – A Journey to Everest

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