not so Bravehearted in Scotland – MIDGES

by site editor Rick McCharles

Most who have never visited Scotland mainly know the country because of the 1995 Academy-award winning historical action-drama film produced and directed by Mel Gibson, Braveheart.

Mel-Braveheart

Scotland was right irked at the time when Mel and crew decided to move most of the movie shoot to … Ireland.

… Ireland had won by offering a whole basket of measures, including use of the Irish army as extras in battle scenes …

That’s the official story. But a Scottish bus driver who was working during some of the Scottish shoot told me that Mel and the crew could not work outdoors in Scotland … because of MIDGES.

What are MIDGES ??

Click PLAY or watch Scotland’s most ferocious predator on YouTube.

There’s even a Scottish Midge Forecast website.

map

By a terrible coincidence, most of the best hiking in Scotland is in Midge country, the rugged highlands and islands.

For example, one story out of LP Walking in Scotland from the best coastal hike, Cape Wrath:

… We lit the stove for a brew but, within a minute, were reduced to futile, flailing anguish as the black clouds of voracious insects swarmed upon us – even into our mouths. …”

I finally decided to give up on Scotland hiking while attempting the excellent Ring of Steall loop. At the trailhead I saw many of the Scot hikers coming off the trail with mosquito net hats. As you’ll see in the video, I did not have one with me.

Click PLAY or watch me on YouTube.

I’m not Bravehearted enough to face the midges.

They aren’t as bad as the sand flies of western South Island New Zealand, but they are too much for me.

One survey found that 86% of visitors warn their friends not to visit Scotland during the key summer months of July and August. Actually, Scotland is no problem in the summer, so long as you don’t stop moving. The cities are fine. But I’d warn everyone not to hike Scotland between June and September, unless you are much tougher than I.

Related:

midge facts

How do midges hunt?

climbing Kilimanjaro for Crohn’s disease

I have a friend with Crohn’s. It’s a bad disease.

From Jeremy Twigg via email:

… This September, 16-year-old Clinton Shard of Squamish, B.C. is climbing Mount Kilimanjaro as a part of a team of six people led by Crohn’s patient Rob Hill, who is the founder of the Intestinal Disease Education and Awareness Society, or I.D.E.A.S. Both of these adventurers have Crohn’s disease, and have overcome tremendous obstacles in order to be able to take on this challenge.

While they are on their journey, they will be posting updates on Twitter (#roberthillclimb, #weneedideas); blogging, posting photos and videos (IBDAdventures.com); and even answering questions via video from their fans on the web while they are climbing! …

Kili

Check out their IBD Adventures website.

I’ve subscribed to the blog.

Good luck to all.

Mt Blanc to Matterhorn – day 4

Hiking trip report by site editor Rick McCharles: Chamonix to Zermatt: The Walker’s Haute Route. Day 4 of 7.

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

After the rain storms of the previous day, the dawn at Cabine Dix was clear.

Cabane-Dix-vista

This hut is famous with climbers as it’s a perfect jumping off point for crossing the glacier early morning while the snow is still cold and stable.

glacier-walkers

I watched the Yellow-billed Choughs, entertaining mountain birds that are found anywhere hikers might picnic.

birds

I love ladders and had long been looking forward to those at the Pas de Chevre.

I dashed across the glacier below the hut. And rushed up to be first over the ladders.

ladders
ladders

I finished the 3rd ladder much more frightened than when I started at the bottom. These are long and scarifying.

Thank Gods I didn’t try to cross the previous night in the cold and dark.

There’s my goal. The Matterhorn, still many days away.

I was inspired
I was inspired

I was pretty happy making the descent to pretty Arolla, one of those picture postcard swiss villages.

horses-Arolla

flowers-Arolla

I relaxed by the river for a couple of hours. Then caught a bus across the valley, climbing quickly to Le Sage.

Swiss-farm

Near a typical high elevation farm I saw an interesting scene. It looked to me like the Swiss helicopter rescue service was doing some training.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Compared with the previous day, my climb over Col du Tsatse 2868m seemed easy.

mountain-pass

What a great hiking day!

See the rest of my photos from day 4.

Or start reading from the beginning of this 7-day journey, a valuable resource if you MIGHT want to do the Haute Route yourself.

… on to day 5

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

Mt Blanc to Matterhorn – day 3

Hiking trip report by site editor Rick McCharles. Day 3 of 7.

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

This turned out to be the most memorable day of many amazing days.

The weather was terrible. All day. Terrible.

The most remote and wild terrain of the entire route.

intensely glaciated
intensely glaciated
surreal glacial tarn
surreal glacial tarn

I was quite happy to finally arrive at Cabane de Prafleuri.

alpine hut
alpine hut

These refuges offer accommodation as well as food. Nice.

Rosti
Rosti

I got a chance to dry out. And warm up. Then walked on when the rain slowed.

Very impressive this day was Lac Dix, man made, created by one of the highest dams in the world.

Lac Dix (Lake 10)
Lac Dix (Lake 10)

The wildflowers and wildlife this day, were the best of the entire Haute Route. It’s an animal reserve.

wildflowers

marmot
marmot

In the early evening the weather worsened. Again.

I decided to stay at an alpine hut rather than try to climb out of the valley.

A long, impressive ridge would take me up to Cabine Dix.

Cabine-Dix

That photo I shot the following morning. The night before, in the rain and dark. I thought I’d never get there. It’s very high. Nearly 3000m. Higher than the pass I would cross next day.

Cost for dinner, bunk bed and breakfast was US$65.

The dinner was excellent. The bed very comfortable. The breakfast the worst I had in Europe.

I was the only Anglophone that night. Ordered about like a German soldier.

Overall, I’d rather sleep in my tent and cook my own food.

See the rest of my photos from day 3.

on to day 4

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | info

BIG in Europe: Nordic Walking

My stand on hiking canes remains unchanged.

I think they’re great for the elderly and infirm.

elderly-couple-hiking-poles

Just kidding.

I’m astonished at how popular this new activity is in Europe. It’s HUGE compared with North America.

Europe has dedicated Nordic Walking paths.

Nordic walking is defined as fitness walking with specially designed poles. … Hikers with knee pain discovered they could walk more powerfully with a pair of trekking poles, often eliminate or reduce hip, knee, and foot pain, and backpackers found relief from painful backs when using poles. …

Wikipedia

Nordic-Walker

Check out a video tutorial by trekkingpoleguru.

Swedes call it stavgång. In Norway and Denmark it is stavgang. And to the Estonians it is kepikönd.

where is the best hike in Austria?

by site editor Rick McCharles

Though I’ve been hiking in Austria out of Bad Gastein for a week, I’m still not clear where to find the best hikes in this country. More than 60 percent of the nation is mountainous. Seems to me you would enjoy hiking almost anywhere.

A good starting point for someone hiking Austria for the first time, however, is Hohe Tauern, the largest of Austria’s six national parks.

National-Park-Hohe-Tauern

Grossglockner 3,798m (12,460ft) is the highest peak in Austria.

Grossglockner

Every Summer, over 1.2 million people drive an expensive toll road to see it.

I wasn’t one of them this Summer.

Instead, I tried to spy the big guy from the top of Kitzsteinhorn. That’s a very popular day trip out of Zell am See.

Kitzsteinhorn

The Alexander Enzinger trail here is often touted a best hike in the area.

The day I rode one of the longest cable cars in the world (50min) the weather turned bleak. And I ran out of time to make it to the top station.

In fact, I must report that it was very ugly at the top of the ski lift. My least favourite place in the Alps, so far.

construction-atop-ski-resort

It was here, too, that 155 people died Nov. 11, 2000 in a tragic railway car tunnel fire.

… enough grim reporting from me …

Check out some gorgeous hiking photos of the area from Adventure4Ever. Everyone else aside from me loves this region.

Your Own Machu Picchu: Choquequirao, Peru

An excellent article on one of the best hikes in Peru was posted on Matador Trips: Discover Your Own Machu Picchu: Choquequirao, Peru

Did you visit Machu Picchu thinking you’d arrived 50 years too late? Wish you could’ve seen it before the tourist hordes and luxury hotel moved in? Then Choquequirao might be for you. …

There are very few trekkers there in comparison with Machu Picchu. We did it in 2005 and had the ruins to ourselves.

photo George Novak
photo George Novak

It’s a massive up and down hike. We hired a mule and mule driver to carry our packs.

The scenery is fantastic, of course.

photo George Novak
photo George Novak

Our biggest concern was the tiny biting flies. (Especially after their bites get infected.)

read the entire Matador article: Discover Your Own Machu Picchu: Choquequirao, Peru

Read the comments for some personal stories on continuing from Choquequirao to Machu Picchu without a guide.

P.S.

There’s one drastic mistake in the story:

From the village to the ruins and back, you’re looking at 74 km (46 miles). …

It’s nowhere near that far. … Is it?

More details and links on our besthike Choquequirao Trek information page.

future climbing trip to the Italian Dolomites?

Dreaming …

Via Ferrata are, in effect, a range of protected scrambling routes, comprised of skilfully installed fixed cables, ladders and gorge-spanning bridges, which assist ascents to high levels, from which you walk on, often to a nearby rifugio, or back to the starting point via a path.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

I wouldn’t want a guided trip. But one instructional session would be valuable.

The gear costs about $200. Helmet, and carabiners. Or you can rent it for about $10 / day.

via-ferrata-gear

Best timing would be the first 3wks of July. Or September.

There are plenty of good guidebooks.

lesson learned: don’t hike Iran/Iraq border

Three US nationals who crossed into Iran via Iraq have been arrested, the state-owned Al-Alam television has reported.

“An informed Iranian source confirmed the arrest of three Americans after they infiltrated through the Iraqi border,” the Arabic-language television station said on Saturday.

The two men and a woman entered Iranian territory a day earlier from Iraqi Kurdistan despite repeated warnings not to do so, a Kurdish official said.

A fourth American originally with the hiking party had not joined the trek due to illness, said Beshro Ahmed, a media adviser for the general security department in Iraq’s autonomous Kurdish region.

He named the three as Shane Bower, Sara Short and Joshua Steel, while Shaun Gabriel Maxwell stayed behind in their hotel in the autonomous Kurdish region’s second-largest city of Sulaimaniyah.

A spokeswoman for the US embassy in Baghdad said: “We’ve seen the reports and are looking into it but can’t confirm anything at this time.” …

map

… The arrests came after the three visited the mountainous resort region of Ahmed Awa, about 90km northeast of Sulaimaniyah.

Ahmed said: “The [Kurdish] tourist police in the area asked them not to climb the mountains because the Iranian border was very close. …

al jazeera