Climbing Rinjani, Indonesia – day 2

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

SUMMIT DAY

Tim’s great selfie (tim_de_bruijn on Instagram)

Awoke at the lake before dawn.ย  Went straight to the hotsprings on my own.ย  Had the hot bath to myself.ย 

We packed up camp quickly.ย 

Said goodbye to the lake.ย 

There are only a few bridges on this adventure.  More often you scramble down โ€” and back up.   It must be miserable in the rain. 

Rarely are there stone steps.ย  This ainโ€™t Nepal.ย 

We had about 600m to gain back climbing up to the 2nd crater rim from the lake.ย 

It was tough.

When I say tough, in addition to being technical, we increasingly had to deal with slippery ash. ย 

Once on the ridge, we set-up our tents. Had lunch.ย  Then a short lie down until 2pm. ย 

One of these pests actually went inside Mason’s tent while he was there! Cheeky.

Tim’s photo (tim_de_bruijn on Instagram)

Weโ€™d decided as a group to go for sunset today rather than sunrise the following morning.ย  This turned out to be our best decision.ย 

That means weโ€™d climb another 1100m trying to get to the top before the sunset.ย  A deadline.ย 

It looked doable to me. 

BUT it got increasingly slippery and dusty as we ascended.ย 

Once above the clouds, we were motivated by the amazing vista.ย 

Gorgeous views โ€” though it was dusty plodding in sections.ย 

Very, very slippery โ€”ย we all used systems to keep scrambling slippery scree.ย  I did bouts of 20 steps.ย 

Made it!ย  And well before sunset. ย 

Only 1 other group tried our itinerary.  Perhaps half their group finished, just about sunset. 

In fact, I left the top even before sunset as I wanted some visibility on the scree section at the top before it got dark.  

Descent turned out to be fairly easy.ย  Mostly screeing through the loose dust and rock (scree).

Views on the way down were even better than on the ascent. 

Eventually we had to turn on our headlamps.  I held mine in one hand, finding it easier to direct the beam. 

Exhausted, we had dinner in our tents.  And went to sleep early. 

Climbing Rinjani, Indonesia – day 3

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Tim posted the BEST 20 photos from our trip in an Instagram story. Scroll through.


7am UP on our final day.  

I actually carried my own tent on this adventure. Air mattresses in the provided tents were not good. ๐Ÿ˜€

The crater rim vistas really are superb. 

The biggest takeaway from this trip for everyone is being impressed with the porters.  Rather than use the more efficient tump system, they balance these loads on one shoulder while doing big step-ups and step-downs.  

They all wear flipflops.  Until they break. 

We were headed down, back to civilization. 

Somewhat slippery โ€” but overall fairly easy. 

We had lunch in a shady forest, monkeys and cows standing by to gobble down what leftovers they could get. 

It was a shock to get to the trailhead.  Noisy motor cycles. 

Perhaps 120 people readying to start.  

Those who sign up for 2 days, 1 night begin and end here close to Sembalun village.  They miss the lake and hotsprings.

It took about an hour to drive back from Sembalun to our start at Senaru village.  We returned rented gear and recovered our luggage left in storage

TIPS

  • BEST HIKE is our itinerary (3 days, 2 nights in tent) with an afternoon ascent rather than the crowded, dusty line-up for dawn.  Day 1 is long and hard, however. 
  • WAIT for a good weather forecast, if you can  
  • Green Rinjani looked one of the most professional companies at camp, to me.  Modern tents. Tables and chairs.
  • Grippy and comfortable shoes are the most important piece of gear.  Wear a size larger than normal so your toes arenโ€™t crushed on the descent. 
  • Protection from sun and wind is important.  Sun screen.  I brought a sun hoodie.  
  • Porters provide as much water as you can drink.  
  • I fell about 8 times over the 3 days.  No injuries as I almost always landed on my backpack. 
  • I didnโ€™t bring trekking poles.  And that was a mistake.  Our guide gave me one pole for long down climbs.  
  • Itโ€™s badly littered.  
  • Sanitation standards are lowNo water for washing up.  Not even the expected containers of alcohol gel that Iโ€™ve had on similar trips around the developing world. 

I completely enjoyed Rinjani.  It could hardly have gone any better for our group with the afternoon ascent.  

BUT โž™ Bottom line โž™ I canโ€™t recommend this hike.  Itโ€™s simply too dangerous.  

During the July 2018 Lombok earthquake, multiple climbers and guides were killed by landslides triggered on Rinjaniโ€™s slopes. 

March 2007, seven people died of exposure after illegally scaling the volcano during a ban. 

Be sure to have evacuation insurance, just in case.

Youโ€™ve been warned. 

Trip Report

Indonesia – Bromo Volcano at Dawn

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Iโ€™ve long wanted to get to this famous vista.ย  It didnโ€™t disappoint.ย 

Mount Bromo 2,329 meters (7,641ย ft) is an activeย somma volcano andย Hindu pilgrimage site inย East Java,ย Indonesia.

The name Bromo comes from the Javanese pronunciation ofย Brahma, theย Hindu godย of creation.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Getting there is a wild ride. ย  Almost everyone signs up for a jeep tour.ย  Only these small Toyota Landcruiser Jeeps are allowed up the mountain.

I departed my hostel in Malang City at 12:45am.ย  It was a scary Mad Max ride over dirt tracks before reaching the viewpoint at 3:15am.ย 

They get you there so early in case of road problems.ย  And jeep breakdowns.ย  It happens.ย 

They also hope youโ€™ll rent warm jackets and blankets.ย  Or buy some souvenirs. ย 

Itโ€™s well worth being there at very first light through dawn, in any case.ย  The volcano vista keeps changing.ย  Every photo a possible postcard.ย 

Here are just a few of the dozens I shot.ย 

Itโ€™s crowded!ย  Everyone scrambling for the best position. ย 

The adventurous bushwhack down the hillside looking for more unique framing.ย 

Iโ€™ll never forget Bromo.ย 

From here the jeep takes you down to the smouldering caldera for a crowded, dusty climb up stairs.ย  I was disappointed with this and the sea of sand beneath.ย  There are many better volcanoes to climb in Indonesia.


DETAILS

Of a number of 1, 2, or 3 day options, I ended up doing the most popular โž™ Bromo Sunrise Tour. Very inexpensive at CAD $50 which includes entry fees.

Itinerary:

  • 00:30: Prepare for pick-up from Malang hostel by 4ร—4 Jeep
  • 01:00: Journey to Penanjakan (sunrise viewpoint by jeep).
  • 03:30: Arrive at the viewpoint and wait for sunrise
  • 05:00: Witness the magical sunrise from Penanjakan.
  • 06:30: Drive down to the Bromo crater area.
  • 07:00: Free time exploring the Bromo Crater.
  • 08:30: Visit the Sand Sea area and the Savanna.
  • 09:00: Begin the journey back to Malang.
  • 11:30: Approximate arrival back at the hostel.

K2 Basecamp, Concordia, (possibly) Gondogoro Laย 

The most expensive guided trip I’ve found for 2025 is World Expeditions.

Ultimate K2 Trek: Basecamp, Concordia, Gondogoro La Exploratory

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

At less than 1/3 that cost, you can go with a discount company.

Vertical Pakistan, for example.

One Vertical Pakistan group in 2024 did make it over Gondogoro Laย โ€” but not all their clients were happy.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

I’m (again) considering signing up with one of these companies for summer 2026 or 2027.

Leave a comment if you have first hand advice.

RAIN on the Milford Track, New Zealand

Michael Lanza, family, and friends hiked the โ€œFinest Walk In The Worldโ€ in 2025.

They went hut-to-hut, the guided option. The easiest way to get a permit on that famous walk.

Lanza posted a terrific trip report and put together an up-to-date eBook on how to organize this adventure for yourself.

LEARNING TOโ€”LOVE?โ€”THE RAIN ON NEW ZEALANDโ€™S MILFORD TRACK

Check our Milford Information page for more.

Heights of Alay Mountains, Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan is a fantastic hiking destination โ€” BUT we wouldn’t recommend you trek there independently.

The Pamir Trail is a proposed 1000km+ route. A work in progress.

Jan Baaker, author of Ciceroneย Trekking in Tajikistan, hopes to connect the entire route soon.

Shorter and logistically easier to organize, is the Heights of Alay Mountains trail.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Trek Paine, Patagonia, via the Brush Variant

If you’ve already hiked Torres del Paine in Chilean Patagonia on the Circuit or W routes, you might be interested in a new adventure called the Brush Variant.

A 7-day trek from Bernardo O’Higgins national park to Chile’s most legendary park โ€” Paine.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube. (Guided)

W Trek In Patagonia

One of the best hikes in South America is the W Trek in Patagonian Chile.

Unforgettable.

The better alternative โ€”ย in our opinion โ€”ย is the longer Paine Circuit. It includes the W Trek.

If you can’t do the Circuit, do the W !

Zac and Ine had good weather โ€”ย but typical high speed winds near the glacier.

They booked everything in advance.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Ausangate Trek, Peru – Guided

This site features the best independent hikes.

And we did hike our #1 trek in South America independently in 2005.

It wasn’t easy.

Adam and Kathryn signed on for a guided trek with AB Expeditions โ€” and were VERY happy with the experience.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Hiking Wonderwall & Wonderland, UAE

If you get to Dubai in the United Arab Emirates, consider heading out to the Westernย Hajar Mountains, which run alongside the border with Oman.

Perhaps the BEST hike / scramble is Wonderwall & Wonderland.

Others include:

  • White Wadi
  • Jabal Jais southside
  • Leopard Canyon

Add on abseiling, if you sign on with Adventurati guides.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.