best hiking desert park – Death Valley

I’ve been many weeks hiking the deserts of the American southwest.

Wonderful.

The best of all, I’m thinking, is Death Valley.

… the lowest, driest, and hottest locations in North America. Badwater, a basin located within Death Valley, is the specific location of the lowest elevation in North America at 282 ft (85.5 m ) below sea level. …

Big, weird and wonderful.

The best hike is Telescope Peak.

Golden Canyon trailhead up to Zabriskie Point would be the signature day hike.

I’m reminiscing about the Valley of Death already.

Death Valley sand dunes

Amazon – Hiking California’s Desert Parks

hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Though May is reckoned to be the best month to hike Capitol Reef, rather than set up a tent I fled to this little “camping cabin“.

hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

Good call. Morning dawned well below zero with plenty of snow on the ground.

hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

The Visitor Center is everyone’s first stop. From there it’s only a few miles to Hickman Bridge trailhead where you have the option of 4 hikes:

• Hickman Bridge
• Rim Overlook
• Navajo Knobs – 9mi return, 1649ft ascent
• Cohab Canyon

These range from “easy” (Hickman Bridge) to “challenging” (The Knobs), ideal for a mixed ability group.

The route is well marked with cairns.

hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

Views are wonderful throughout though there’s not much protection from wind and sun.

Pectols Pyramid is the first highlight of many.

Pectols Pyramid - hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

My first rattlesnake ever! (They’ve seen me, but I’ve never seen one of them.)

hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

… Apparently it’s too early in the Spring for this guy. And a Ranger told me they are only very rarely found on this trail.

Was he looking for this guy?

hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

The route climbs parallel with the highway. Here’s the valley far below:

hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

That’s them?

The Navajo Knobs?

hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

A bit of a let down. They’re simply 2 bumps of limestone atop the Waterpocket Fold. The main reason to go the extra miles is to see around the corner. It’s impressive!

I left a Summit Stone atop one Knob, reward for anyone keen enough to get up there.

Rangers were pushing this guidebook: Capitol Reef National Park – The Complete Hiking and Touring Guide.

I used my trusty Lonely Planet Hiking in the USA.

As both a driving tour, and hiking destination, I highly recommend Capitol Reef.

See the rest of my photos from this day hike.

USA hikes with Gorgeous Finales

A good list from divine caroline by Vicki Santillano:

Kalalau Trail, Hawaii
Half Dome, California
Conundrum Creek Trail, Colorado
Bright Angel Trail, Arizona
The Hollywood Trail, California
Mount Riga State Park Trail, Connecticut
OldRag Mountain Hike, Virginia
Raven Cliff Falls Trail, Georgia
Mount Whitney Trail, California

… The ends of these popular hikes can replenish the most tired and weary of walkers and instill an invigorating sense of accomplishment in them. … the more motivation you’ll have to keep walking when the trails get tough …

click through for details and photos of each – Nine U.S. Hikes with Gorgeous Finales

(via Chris Weiss on uncooped who adds Angel’s Landing, Utah)

I’m liking Conundrum Hot Springs.

… located at a staggering 11,200′ within the famous Maroon Bells in the Snowmass wilderness. These steamy pools are 8.5 miles up the Conundrum Creek trail just outside of Aspen. …

click photo for details

Anniversary Narrows, Lake Mead, Nevada

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

As beautiful a slot canyon as any other on earth.

How could I resist?

That claim made by one of my guidebooks, Afoot and Afield Las Vegas, the best of those I used.

Simple.

Drive to this trailhead. …

Anniversary Narrows, Lake Mead, Nevada

An easy 2.5mi out-and-back.

Unfortunately, I didn’t do that.

Instead I parked on the highway, not trusting my low clearance vehicle to make it to the trailhead. This added about 2.5mi to the trip.

En route a couple of hikers told me I was off-route. They could not find the trailhead. (It was there.)

I diverted to the only other possible watercourse, following footprints down a dry creek. It looked feasible.

WRONG.

I circumambulated a minor peak on a scramble soon dubbed the DANGER MINE trail.

Anniversary Narrows, Lake Mead, Nevada

There must have been a dozen old mine shafts up there, right to the top of the peak.

Finally I spied hikers far below. On my original, correct route.

Anniversary Narrows, Lake Mead, Nevada

Anniversary Narrows are lovely.

Anniversary Narrows, Lake Mead, Nevada

Rick straddling Anniversary Narrows, Lake Mead, Nevada

Recommended. But another cautionary tale of how easy it is to get lost in the desert. It’s possible to fall into an abandoned mine shaft out there, too.

The crumbling ruins of the mining operation are a historical attraction.

Anniversary Narrows, Lake Mead, Nevada

see all my photos from this trip

Monument Valley, Wildcat Trail

Phoenix is more than 300 miles distant. Las Vegas more than 400 miles.

Yet Monument Valley is always packed with tourists, many of them European.

I found the Park badly managed. Perhaps they’ve no need to do better as it’s a must see attraction, as is.

No independent hiking is allowed save one track, Wildcat. The American Southwest had given it an underwhelming review, so my expectations were low.

Turned out I loved it, the only hiker on the trail.

Wildcat Trail, Monument Valley

Wildcat Trail, Monument Valley

Rick in Monument Valley

As the sun dropped in the sky, shadows became interesting.

Wildcat Trail, Monument Valley

See all my photos from this day hike.

Don’t drive by without doing this hike. Only $5 entrance fee. There’s a rough $10 dry campground at the trailhead. I recall 2 Germans telling me, years ago, that waking up in the morning with Monument Valley outside the window was one of the real highlights of their visit to the Southwest.

Jamie Compos posted an excellent trip report with photos. They were followed on the walk by a “tourist dog”, looking for handouts.

And check Hank Leukart’s hilarious winter visit to Monument Valley – Without Baggage – A surreal, Native American dream.

fear the Henry Mountains, Utah

These black, bleak peaks looming over 8000ft above the surrounding deserts are out-of-place.

Remote. Barren. Inaccessible.

Nobody lives there, aside from American bison. And that was by forced relocation. Poor beasts.

The Bureau of Land Management do not make regular patrols. Too dangerous, I assume.

… The Henry Mountains were the last mountain range to be added to the map of the 48 contiguous U.S. states (1872), and before their official naming …, sometimes referred to as the “Unknown Mountains.” …

One hiker dared climb, Bob Palin. Read his photo trip report: Hiking Mount Ellen

day hiking Valley of Fire, Nevada

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Valley of Fire State Park is 50mi (80km) northeast of Las Vegas. Though I’d been to Red Rock a dozen times, this was my first trip to Valley of Fire.

… It sounded similar to Red Rock.

… It derives its name from red sandstone formations, formed from great shifting sand dunes during the age of dinosaurs. These features, which are the centerpiece of the park’s attractions, often appear to be on fire when reflecting the sun’s rays. …

Ideal for family hiking, it would be difficult to lose your children on any of these short trails. Kids and adults love scrambling the rock features.

Valley of Fire, Nevada

Valley of Fire, Nevada

I’m very happy I made the scenic drive via Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Recommended.

more interesting photos tagged Valley of Fire

Spring and Fall are the best times to visit though it’s open year round.

related: Desert USA – Valley of Fire State Park

Mary Jane Falls, Nevada … in winter

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

April is a fantastic month for hiking out of Las Vegas.

desert near Las Vegas

It’s not too hot. Cactus flowers bloom.

cactus flowers

The closest hiking destination to Las Vegas is Red Rock. Millions visit each year.

The second closest major hiking area is much less well known, though it’s less than an hour’s drive from “the strip”.

I arrived April 15th in shorts and t-shirt at the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area and Mount Charleston Visitor Center, the woman there asked me: “Do you have snowshoes?”

Snowshoes?

Almost all of the 51mi of trails were “snowed in”. I needed to come back the end of May, or later, she told me.

Mount Charleston is totally different than Red Rock. Dense Bristlecone pine forests. It feels more like you’re in Colorado, than Nevada. There’s even a ski resort here!

Who knew?

I had been planning to start with the most popular trail, Mary Jane Falls.

Guidebook author and editor of Hiking Las Vegas, Branch Whitney says: “If you don’t enjoy this trail, forget hiking.”

Less than 3mi, return, be ready for a series of switchbacks. Your rewards is walking up to and behind a gorgeous waterfall. There’s a cave to explore, as well.

(A more challenging alternative is the boulder hopping scramble up to Big Falls from the same trailhead as Mary Jane.)

I took a look at the trailhead, just in case.

Mary Jane Falls hike, Las Vegas

How hard could it be?

I tramped up the packed snow. No problem … for a Canadian, like myself.

But on arrival at “the Falls” …

Mary Jane Falls hike, Las Vegas

No water. It was, of course, frozen up above.

Oh well, I’ve an excuse now to return in the Summer.

☺☺☺

Final recommendation …

Drive the scenic road Highways 95 to 158 to 156 back to 95. The prettiest I’ve done in Nevada. Even better, cycle down from the Ski Resort to 95.

biking/hiking Red Rock Canyon, Vegas

My favourite attraction in Las Vegas is Red Rock Canyon, perhaps the best hiking and scrambling destination in the world this close to a major city.

It’s super popular with road bikes, too. I was out-of-place on the 13mi (21km) scenic loop drive … on a mountain bike.

Rick cycling Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas

There is no off trail biking allowed at Red Rock.

My first stop was the new Visitor’s Center. Impressive.

From there I road on to the Calico Tanks trailhead:

… fairly strenuous, 1.2-mile hike and scramble runs up a canyon and over sandstone slickrock to a large natural depression (a tank or tinaja) near the top of the Calico Hills ridge. The tank sometimes holds water. There are great views of Calico Basin and the Las Vegas valley from a saddle just beyond the tank. …

Bird and Hike

Calico Tanks hike - Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas

The trail is not well signed nor defined. But at the Visitor Center it was explained to me …

Follow the obvious trail. When that runs out, look for stone steps.

stone steps - Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas

When there is no trail and no steps, scramble up the easiest way you can find. Until the next section of trail. Or steps.

Finally you reach the largest “tank” itself.

Calico Tanks hike - Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas

Five minutes higher and you just might be able to eye your Casino hotel in the distance.

Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas

See the rest of my photos.

The hiking’s fine at Red Rock. But, for me, the best activity is rock scrambling.

hiking the Grand Canyon today

by site editor Rick McCharles

Great news!

One of the toughest Backcountry Permits anywhere, early in the season I was able to grab 1-night at Bright Angel campground by getting on the wait list, 2-days in advance.

I’ll descend the South Kaibab Trail. Trudge up the Bright Angel Trail next day.

This is pretty much the most popular overnight hike in the Park.

I would have preferred one of the rim-to-rim adventures, but the North Rim does not open until May 15th. It’s still winter up there.