Category: coastal

Rick McCharles

Most serious hikers who travel to Tasmania hike the Overland Track as training for the far more rigorous South Coast Track.

That adventure on the southern most shore of Tasmania takes even fast hikers 7 days, 6 nights after flying into the Melaleuca airstrip trailhead. It’s 83km (51mi) to exit at Cockle Creek through the world’s largest temperate wilderness.

Me – I ran out of time.

Instead of doing the entire South Coast Track, I spent only 4 days, 3 nights enjoying the southern beaches out of Cockle Creek.

South Cape Rivulet campsite

I’ve seen tea stained water before, but never as dark as the water of south coast Tasmania. (It’s quite safe to drink.)

The only hassles on this section were biting flies and the odd very deep mud pool. (I almost lost my shoe knee deep at one point.)

I enjoyed the beach sunsets best of all.

Though it looks lovely, be aware that “there are no huts or people living along the track so you will need a tent. There are no fires allowed along most of the coast. You will need to carry your own fuel stove. Lastly and most important – there are no food resupply points between the two ends of the track. You must carry all your own food for the entire trip and also carry out your rubbish. There are no hut wardens …”

John Chapman – guidebook author on the South Coast Track

whale statue at Cockle Creek

More annotated photos of the South Coast Track out of Cockle Creek

Final word. One veteran hiker told me that the similar Kokoda Trail in Papua New Guinea was “more difficult by half” than the South Coast Track. On the other hand, in PNG you can have porters carry your pack.

The trail we named “best hike in the world” usually opens May 1. As this is the 100 year anniversary of founding, celebrations were planned. But the WCT opening may be delayed — a suspension bridge is missing and two cable-car crossings are out.

The West Coast Trail is one of North America’s best-known and most challenging wilderness treks, but the storm has left it impassible, at least until repair work can be done.

An estimated 2,000 trees are down in the park, one footbridge has been destroyed and three of the five hand-operated cable cars that allow hikers to pass over streams and ravines are out of service.

“It was unbelievable,” Mr. Brand said, recalling the Dec. 11 storm. “We had trees coming down everywhere. The sea was like a giant washing machine. . . . I think the problem was not just the wind, but the gusts. It went from 60 knots to 100 knots in a microsecond.”

STORM DAMAGE: B.C.’s trail of destruction – Globe and Mail

Happily, the Canadian federal government said it will pay for part of the cleanup.

West Coast Trail – besthike information page

The West Coast Trail

No surprise. We’ve called the WCT the best hike in the world since 1999.

Its “a near perfect hiking experience in pristine Canadian wilderness.”

Variety is the main reason we name West Coast Trail the finest walking adventure anywhere. Many hike it every year. On the “Shipwreck Coast” of Vancouver Island, it’s a thrill ride.

We’ve never taken more photos on any other trip.

A coastal hike of 75km (47mi) between Port Renfrew (Gordon River) and Bamfield (Pachena Bay), ideally you want 7 days, 6 nights though many do it in less.

 

• mystic dawns and mind-blowing sunsets
• pretty beaches, cool caves, hidden pocket coves, weird cliffs and coastal geology
• WCT is in a well protected National Park, but access is easy from Victoria or Vancouver
• it’s challenging — though 99% of those who start (somehow) finish
• evacuation in case of disaster is efficient
• thrilling boulder and log walking between Thrasher & Owen Point
• scrambling up slippery Sandstone Creek
• playing at Hole in the Wall
• impossibly situated pretty Tsusiat Falls
• walking in impressive old growth forest
• share the trip with whales, sea lions, mink. Maybe bear and cougar. Or even wolves!
• ship wrecks and other historical artifacts
• cable cars and ladders can be “fun”
• campfires below the tide line
• no biting insects
• excellent hiking guidebooks available

 

Considerations:

The biggest hassle is the quota system which limits the number of people starting each day to 52. You need to be organized months in advance to get your hands on a Trail Permit.

 

• hikers have died on the West Coast Trail
• rogue waves and surge channels pose the greatest risks
• this is not a good hike for those who have never done a long multi-day trip
• though it gets a little easier each season, it is still tough
• slippery footing causes almost everyone to fall multiple times
• few finish this adventure pain-free
• you must carry your own heavy pack
• you may need to climb 50 huge ladders
• miserably exposed, rain and wind is the norm. You need a good tent.
• can you handle 6 inches of rain in 12 hours?
• summer highs around 14C (57F)
• risks of both hypothermia and heat stroke
• river crossing are normally no problem

 

Get the details on how to organize to hike it on our West Coast Trail information page.

Can you spare $400,000 to finish construction?

“The North Coast Trail, which runs into the northern part of Cape Scott Provincial Park, is almost complete,” Trevena wrote. “Even in its incomplete state, it is attracting widespread interest from people who want to hike it.”

A North Coast Trail would be another draw to bring tourists north of Victoria, and it would relieve pressure on the “overcrowded” West Coast Trail, said Trevena.

“The North Coast Trail was brought into being by a volunteer committee; they have built the trail to an extremely high and exacting standard,” said Trevena. “However, that committee has been unable to find, through business partnerships or through fundraising, the money to complete this trail.

“A further $400,000 is being sought,” …

BCNG Portals Page

click to see larger map

Living close to the Rocky Mountains I generally look down on any hikes … east of the Rocky Mountains.

But when Kevin Huinink contacted me about his 8-day trek along the rugged shore of Lake Superior in Ontario, I was impressed. In fact after reading his trip report, I added Pukaskwa to our list of the best hikes in the world.

Kevin, like myself, is keen on coastal hiking — much more challenging and fascinating than you might expect.

Kevin’s trip report makes you feel you were there. They struggled at times though it sounds like the two boys aged 11 and 13 handled it well. Congratulations. An adventure like this they will remember for life.

The Coastal Hiking Trail … is a tough hike and requires proper planning, equipment, fitness, and backcountry skills. Campsites are located near beaches and bays.

All backcountry hikers must register-in and register-out with park staff. The park limits the number of parties permitted in the backcountry. …

Trail base may be masked with windfall, herbaceous plant growth or washouts. The northern section of the trail (Hattie Cove to Cave Harbour) is well used and generally clear. Southern sections, especially south of Oiseau Bay, are quite rugged, less used and can sometimes be confused with game trails. A compass, topographic map (1:50,000 scale) and trail guide are strongly recommended.

Do not attempt to swim or wade across swollen rivers or fast flowing waters.

Parks Canada – Pukaskwa National Park of Canada

The Coastal Hiking Trail winds from Hattie Cove, south through the boreal forest and over the hummocky rock of the shield to the North Swallow River (60 km).

Kevin actually reversed the normal route, hiring a boat to carry them to North Swallow River, then hiked back. Check out Kevin’s web page on the trip.

map – Parks Canada