Category: books and magazines

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Elfin Lakes hike, Squamish B.C.

• 22km round trip to Elfin Lakes campground (600m gain) + Gargoyles side trip
• LOTS of snow at the end of July
• be prepared for very wet trails
• BUGGY !
• registration online or by phone required to stay overnight

From the start I had problems. First finding the trailhead out of Squamish, B.C. – street signage is not all that clear. I asked different mountain bikers to find the right gravel road.

Elfin Lakes is popular. The parking lot was full. I squeezed my rent-a-car in on the side of the approach.

The first 5km to Red Heather Meadows campground is a road.

You share most of this trail with mountain bikers. And chipmunks.

Breaking out of the trees first vista is impressive Diamond Head. Actually, that’s Atwell Peak. Many make the same mistake I did.

We’d enjoyed dry sunny weather for weeks at this point. Still many parts of the trail were wet with snow melt. Some sections have been improved.

On a hot day like this, walking snow fields was fun.

I’d read the hike was on Paul Ridge. True. But it’s not a ridge walk. Normally you are on one side of the ridge or the other, not the top.

Elfin Lakes campground. A beautiful scene.

You can sleep in a large shelter or tent on one of these side slope platforms.

Elfin Lakes are not lakes, they are meltwater ponds. One for drinking water. One for … swimming.

Earlier in the week a mouse had somehow gotten into my Ursack food bag while up on the line, so I switched to a dry bag.

I enjoyed a siesta in my tent (escaping the voracious bugs) and was sluggish getting going for the recommended side trip to the Gargoyles.

Here’s the trail from Camp leading to the Gargoyles. More interesting but wetter than the Elfin Lakes approach.

Climbing up to the Pass was easy but long. Snow conditions good, you simply walked in footprints or kicked in your own steps.

Looking over to the other side.

A trail runner came down recommending I scramble the Gargoyles.

Instead I listened to my audiobook and relaxed.

The next 3 hikers arrived keen to climb. One had been here before. I climbed up the first Gargoyle to take some photos. Wow.

Suddenly inspired I scrambled the ridge myself to the end to get to this view – scenery reminding me of the Himalayas.

That’s the 11.5km trail continuing to the new Rampart Ponds Campground (Mamquam Lake Campground is permanently closed).

Tempting.

See all my high resolution photos.

Guidebook – 103 Hikes in Southwestern British Columbia

 

 

 

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Evliya Çelebi Way, Turkey

Candace Rose Rardon:

… while it was tempting to spend weeks getting lost in Istanbul, or exploring the dramatic rocky landscapes of Cappadocia, I eventually decided to devote my time in the country to a 350km (217 mi) trek. Solo.

When I set out for the journey from Istanbul, I had a sleeping bag, tent, and cooking essentials in my backpack, and was fully prepared to camp on all 22 nights of a cultural walking route called the Evliya Çelebi Way, which is named after a 17th-century Ottoman traveller and writer.

What actually transpired along the trail was a different story. In the end, I pitched my tent just four nights.

On the remaining nights, I was invited into the homes of more than a dozen Turkish families in the rural region of Anatolia, who always offered me a couch or bed to sleep on, a place at their round silver dinner tray, and endless cups of steaming tea, or çay. …

LOST AND FOUND: TURKEY AND THE ART OF HOSPITALITY

Here’s the guidebook — The Evliya Celebi Way

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Travelled Far: A Collection Of Hiking Adventures

I enjoyed Keith Foskett’s PCT and Appalachian Trail books so couldn’t resist when offered this book for free. (Kindle edition)

In this book he shares a collection of trips, thoughts and observations from his award-winning blog. From the extremes of the New Mexico wilderness to his beloved South Downs in England, he observes the world with clarity, hope, daydreams and humour.
With tales of local history, the changing of the seasons, facing death and pursuing his chosen path, this is a glimpse into one man’s unfaltering passion to follow his dreams.

His local favourite 100 mile hike. The micro-adventure he discovered connecting paths around his village. His failed attempt on the Continental Divide Trail.

Foskett explains why we hike as well as any author.

GoodReads reviews

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The Last Englishman: A Thru-Hiking Adventure on the Pacific Crest Trail

I enjoyed Keith Foskett’s Appalachian Trail book so much I downloaded his earlier memoir on the PCT.

This one is good too. Both humorous and introspective. The real deal.

Washington and Oregon are the highlights. He and two other last Englishmen were the last 3 hikers to make it to the Canadian border that year.

I’m continuing on to another of his books — Travelled Far: A Collection Of Hiking Adventures — available free from the author.

 

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Balancing on Blue – Thru-Hiking the Appalachian Trail

By Englishman Keith Foskett 

I’ve read a number of AT books, my favourite being A Walk in the Woods by Bill Bryson.

But this may be my second favourite. Foskett does a superb job of explaining the big question: WHY are you doing a thru-hike. 

I enjoyed too the brief entries written by some of his thru-hiking friends.

‘Be prepared for great story telling, unique and interesting characters, humour and insight.’
Andrew Skurka – National Geographic Adventurer of the Year.

I’ve now downloaded his earlier PCT book – The Last Englishman.

 

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Turkey’s Lycian Way – a book

Canadian Michelle Savigny published an entertaining book called Breaking the Fourth Wall: An Uncertain Journey on Turkey’s Lycian Way. (2016)

I read it in preparation for doing some hiking there myself.

After researching long-distance coastal routes, she prepared to solo hike the 509-kilometre Lycian Way. The journey doesn’t take her where she planned, but as she camps in the wild, gets lost without water and confronts charging sheepdogs, the path guides her to exactly where she needs to be. …

Amazon

Unfortunately I didn’t get much information on the hike itself: best sections, highlights, etc.

Her journey was more internal than physical. I’m not sure it mattered where she happened to be walking.

Click PLAY or watch some of her photos on YouTube.

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AWOL on the Appalachian Trail

I enjoyed this trip report. It’s basically his trail diary.

In 2003, David Miller left his job, family, and friends to fulfill a dream and hike the Appalachian Trail. …

While this book abounds with introspection and perseverance, it also provides useful passages about safety and proper gear, showing a professional hiker’s preparations and tenacity.

 

This is not merely a travel guide, but a beautifully written and highly personal view into one man’s adventure and what it means to make a lifelong vision come true.

Amazon

GoodReads reviews.

If you want to hike the A.T. this is a good read. Very systematic and well organized information. He was a 41-year-old computer programmer at the time.

David Miller went on to publish Appalachian Trail guidebooks.

That said, I’d recommend you hike the Pacific Crest Trail instead. It’s a better thru hike. 🙂

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Colorado Trail Fest

Backpacker Magazine:

In partnership with Mountain Hardwear, the state of Colorado, and the Colorado Outward Bound School, we launched the first annual Colorado Trail Fest in September 2016.

Nearly 40 BACKPACKER readers gathered for a four-day trek in the San Juan Mountains, followed by a train ride to Durango and a music-beer-food-prizes celebration. …

Backpacker

Click PLAY or watch 2016 highlights on YouTube.

The 2017 Colorado Trail Fest is scheduled for mid-September. Leave a comment if you have final dates for that.

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Pete Brook on the PCT

I liked Carrot Quinn’s PCT book for her honesty. And I like this interview.

Pete Brook is an independent writer who covered his Pacific Crest Trail thru-hike for Outside Magazine last summer.

 

Along the way, Pete documented his experience through a handful of articles, and more closely through his social media. Pete’s honest take on the hike ran counter to the overly romantic versions of outdoor pursuits that have emerged in recent years. …

 

The Clyme

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Thru-Hiking Will Break Your Heart …

An Adventure on the Pacific Crest Trail by Carrot Quinn 

I’ve read a number of books on the PCT. I believe this is my favourite.

thru-hiking-will-break-your-heart

Amazon

Carrot Quinn was raised in Alaska on welfare by a schizophrenic single mother. A rough life. In fact, she became a hobo riding the rails.

This book reads as a blog. That’s because it started as blog posts from the trail.

reaching the Canadian border
reaching the Canadian border

If you are one of those who disliked Cheryl Strayed’s memoir Wild … because it had too little actual hiking … know that this extended trip report is all about the hiking. 🙂

It’s funny. It’s real. It’s surprising. Carrot makes no apologies.She’s a big advocate of trail romance. Even sex.

I’ll certainly buy any of her other books that get released on audio.

related – Carrot did not love the Continental Divide Trail. She did love the Hayduke Route.