Seems I forgot to take many photos on day 2. My first priority was video.
Oops.
As I’d camped at Cascada rather than Frey I counted myself ahead of schedule. No rush today.
I enjoyed the morning. Wandered the boggy grasslands.
In the afternoon I was surprised by the difficult, steep climb to reach Brecha Negra pass.
The descent was even worse. Dangerous.
But arriving at the alpine lake was wonderful. It’s a lovely spot.
Here is the old Refugio San Martin (Jakob). It burned down in 2017.
The replacement was well underway when I was there February 2018.
Hikers without tents slept and ate in temporary structures.
The highlight of the day was scrambling up to Laguna Los Tempanos, a glacial meltwater lake. It reminded me of places in the Rockies.
Surprisingly, I had the place to myself at dusk.
Tomorrow’s route climbs up this impossibly steep face. I had no idea how it could possibly be done.
This evening I hung out at camp enjoying the stars with 4 other Canadians. Two wanted to continue with me on the difficult day 3 ahead. Two wanted to exit down the valley, worried because they’d already found the easier days very difficult.
In the end, they decided to end their hike next day. Safety first.
From Bariloche there are two #55 buses taking two different routes to the ski resort. Check with locals to see where to catch the correct bus.
You need to purchase a SUBE bus card. Local buses do not take cash in Bariloche.
Cerro Catedral Alta Patagonia Ski Resort
Two choices to start your trek:
1. Ski lift – Amancay to Dientes de Caballo ($24 in 2018)
2. Walk Arroyo Van Titter
Flush with cash, I took the cable car. Everyone else from my bus walked to save money.
(Early in the season the high route via the ski lift may be impassable due to snow and ice. Check with CAB in Bariloche to confirm.)
The cable car is very popular with day hikers. They come up on clear days to see the amazing vista over to Chile. This is called the Las Nubes trail.
Volcán Puntiagudo
From the top of the lift it’s about 4 hours to Frey or to the most popular alternative, Cascada camp.
I was surprised at the challenging ridge walk required. It’s difficult right off the bat. Follow the paint splotches.
It’s a high alpine route, not a trail.
I met an American day hiking who planned on descending via Frey and Arroyo Van Titter. Same day. He would be finishing in the dark.
shade
There’s no water up high. It was hot.
At Cancha de Futbol you either turn left and head for Refugio Frey (the only Refugio which requires a reservation for both dormitory and camping) … OR, turn right towards Jacob and psych up for the long, steep scree descent towards the valley.
I planned to camp down in the green at Cascada as I couldn’t get a reservation for Frey.
First I turned left hoping to see Frey from above.
I could see the pond above the refugio, but the hut itself was out of sight below.
For navigation I was using Lonely Planet Trekking in the Patagonian Andes (out of print) — Nahuel Huapi Traverse PDF on my phone. I’d scanned it.
I enjoyed the great views up high on the ridge before starting down.
The descent was long, hot and somewhat dangerous. But I was happier than some British friends I met who were climbing UP to camp at Frey that night (illegally).
Getting to the tranquil, green, shaded campsite at dusk was wonderful. Plenty of clean water.
CAB is the best place to go for information. You can fill out your FREE registration with (guessed) itinerary. There’s no need to stick to that route once you start, however.
If unsure, put down the full Traverse.
he classic (difficult) Traverse has you sleeping 4 nights in the mountains. No reservation for tenting is required except at Frey.
Refugio Frey (alternative Cascada if Frey is booked)
Unless you are exhausted, there’s no need to stop at López. It’s only 3.5km to the highway bus stop near Puente López, walking distance from the town of Colonia Suiza.
I always prefer sleeping in a tent to the alternative: noisy, crowded, dirty communal hut mattresses.
Bariloche has plenty of outdoor stores (camping fuel) and a few large supermarkets. Stock up for your hike. Celebrate with excellent Argentinian gelato.
Happily, the rain quit sometime during the night. It dawned clear though clouds swirled around the high peak.
Beautiful.
I went wandering up towards the glacier as high as I could.
There was no rush getting back down for the 5pm bus. It was a leisurely day in every respect.
On the descent I took a long break overlooking the gorgeous waterfalls.
I also took the side trip to see the bottom of the falls on the Glaciar Castano Overo trail. Beautiful.
Climbing down 1200m was much easier than ascending.
Originally I’d considered doing a second night camped up the other trail out of Pampa Linda. Lake Lion.
But the weather was too uncertain.
I got back to the trailhead at Pampa Linda with about 90 minutes to spare. After dropping my registration confirming my return, I washed up in the river. Then ate the rest of my camping food.
These colourful birds came by seemingly looking for a handout. There are many big, beautiful birds in Argentina.
The shuttle buses left promptly at 5pm. It seemed nobody who had booked was missing.
I couldn’t keep my eyes open for much of the 2 hour ride back to Bariloche.
The main hub for hikers in the Argentinian lake district is Bariloche.
The population of 130,000 plus tourists stretches along the busy lakeside highway. It should be another Banff, Chamonix, Queenstown … but isn’t. Many (including myself) become disenchanted with the place after a while.
Super popular with hikers, however, out of Bariloche is a one night adventure to climb an extinct volcano called Tronador (Thunderer) 3,470 m, the highest peak in the area. A 1200m ascent from the valley trailhead.
At CAB, buy a return hiker’s shuttle bus ticket to Pampa Linda for about $40. Pampa Linda is the trailhead for Tronador.
We departed Bariloche 8:30am. It’s a bumpy, dusty, but scenic 77km to Pampa Linda close to the Chilean border.
Here you fill out a mandatory, free registration form.
I hung around Pampa Linda letting the largest group of hikers get started ahead of me.
The trail is a road to start. But green and tranquil.
Hoping to shortcut I jumped on to a smaller trail … It turned out to be the side trip to Mirador del Valle, a valley view point. Oops.
It took me 20 minutes or so to realize my mistake. But rather than admit I was an idiot, I dropped my pack and carried on up the little used, overgrown trail.
I never did make it to the viewpoint. But here’s a photo looking back to the valley.
The main trail does get steeper in places. There are stairs and switchbacks.
After spending 4 days above tree line on my last hike, it was a nice change to walk in bamboo forest shaded by huge trees.
Still, I was looking forward to views from up high. It was exciting to finally reach the big vistas.
Perhaps most impressive were waterfalls coming off the glacier. Weather was deteriorating rapidly so I didn’t stop.
I’ve seen condors many times, but it was still thrilling to see two flying by very close. They circled the alpine hut, too.
I rushed up to choose my (semi-protected) campsite for the night. I wanted to get as close to the glacier as possible. It began to rain just as I set up the tent. So I didn’t do much sightseeing at dusk.
Instead I read my book. Then headed over to the famed Otto Meiling hut.
Otto Meiling (Cerro Tronador)
As a solo English speaking hiker I don’t much enjoy stepping into these cramped, expensive refuges, but Otto Meiling is better than most in Argentina. It’s quite cosy indoors.
Otto Meiling (1902-1989), a German immigrant and carpenter/mountaineer, built the hut in the 1950s. He climbed the mountain 15 times. At age 84, he made an ascent from Pampa Linda and returned in one day! His fondness for mountaineering led to founding the Club Andino de Bariloche which is thriving today.
Otto Meiling
I’d neglected to carry wine so hoped to purchase one glass to celebrate inside away from the drizzle. Unfortunately this hut only sells wine by the bottle. I had a $5 hot chocolate instead. Food and drink are good, but understandably expensive, in alpine huts.
Not lasting long I retreated to my cozy tent to watch an episode of Fortitude. Then listen to my (excellent) biography of Leonardo da Vinci.
Friends had been up a few nights early in perfect weather. No moon. Here’s how it looked.
That looks pretty great to us. The 5 days, 4 nights on the trek itself costs about $1600 if you are in a group. Their guided treks run March through November.
If interested, email them at info (a) andeanlodges.com.
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Weather was deteriorating rapidly so I didn’t stop.
It began to rain just as I set up the tent. So I didn’t do much sightseeing at dusk.
besthike.com 