lost and hypothermic in the Andes

Non-hikers assume that what I do is “dangerous”.

I always pooh-pooh the notion: “It’s more dangerous driving to the trailhead than hiking the trail.”

The only time I really got in trouble was in Venezuela. I learned important lessons the HARD way.

From my 1997 photo travelogue:

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Mérida boasts the world’s highest (4765m) and longest (12.5km) cable car. Unfortunately, in the 1980s a car on the top crashed killing an undisclosed number of tourists. The last section of the ride up was never repaired. …

Still, I could ride to 4000m and hike from there. Overnight camping is technically illegal so almost no one knew where I was going as I headed up the mountain.

I climbed a ridge. The vista was magic with clouds blowing in and out. I dropped my pack at the first possible tent site & continued up looking for a better spot. The terrain was steep, exposed & rugged. Not many options for a tent.

I knew that at the top of the mountain was The Virgin of the Snows, a statue of the Virgin Mary. She led me on.

On a whim I decided to kiss the Virgin — once the dayhiking tourists had departed for the day.

I was careful to note landmarks on my way up so I could return to the pack. Unfortunately they all disappeared in the clouds.

Blast.

Lost in the Andes above 4000m.
I vainly searched for the ridge back down to my tent, pack and sleeping bag. Finally, as night fell, I resolved to take refuge in a grotto beneath an overhanging rock. I had water but no food.

For 10 hours I huddled shivering, calculating the probability of death from hypothermia in just a t-shirt and fleece pants. I’d like to tell you I learned something from this experience — but I didn’t. It was a drag.

At first light I tried another long route down. What a relief when, four hours later, I bumped into an elderly Swiss couple on the trail! They gave me a cookie & directions. I had been hopelessly lost.

To add insult to injury, officials on the cable car wanted to arrest me for camping illegally.

Lesson learned? Never leave your pack.

Click through my annotated photos from that adventure

OK — hypothermia is no joke:

Early warning symptoms include intense shivering, fumbling hands and poor coordination. Shivering is the body’s attempt to generate heat. A simply field test for mild hypothermia is to try touching your thumb to your little finger on the same hand. If you have difficulty doing this, it’s time to seek shelter and warmth.

Later hypothermia symptoms include slurred speech, mental confusion and unconsciousness. Often victims do not recognize the symptoms and fully understand the dangerous situation they face. The victim needs warmth immediately and protection from further body heat loss. Hypothermia is a medical emergency that requires immediate attention.

Wilderness Survival – Hypothermia symptoms

(via My Outdoor Gear)

Honestly, I estimated that I could survive one more night of hypothermia. But not two.

I’ll never leave my pack again.

You won’t be surprised to learn that I want to return to Mérida, to hike La Travesia Mucuy – Mérida.

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