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One of the best hikes in the world

Milford Track

“The Finest Walk In The World”

– Blanche Edith Baughan (1908)

Note: We were last there in 2003. Things have changed. You can recommend improvements by leaving recommendations or links in the comments on this page. Our editors will consider them. Thanks for your help!

You can tramp the famed Milford Track in two ways:

Guided = NZ$2130 and up in 2020, 4 nights
Independent = about NZ$200 Summer in 2020 for 3 nights

Confident hikers oft enjoy the cheaper independent experience better. But it is easier to get a spot on a guided tour.

AT A GLANCE

book months in advance to get a reservation
one-way track Lake Te Anau to Milford Sound
crystal clear waters, rainforest, waterfalls and a stunning mountain pass
max. elevation Mackinnon Pass 1154m (3786ft)
GPS measured 57km (35.5mi) plus sidetrips
4-days, 3-nights independently
boat transport at both ends of the track
easy hiking, with steep sections
Dec – Mar best months
1070m (3468ft) elevation gain

Why We Like This Hike

Fiordland National Park is part of the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage site, one of the great, unique wilderness areas of the world
sidetrip to Sutherland Falls, 580m (1903ft) over 3 leaps, one of highest Falls in the world
the astonishing history of this area
the reward of arrival at Milford Sound, an impressive fjord dominated by Mitre Peak
fishermen love the Clinton River. Get a licence, bring a light fishing rod & you are almost guaranteed to be eating trout the first night.
spotting the rare Whio (Blue Duck)
strict regulations & quota keeps the hike from being over-run. It does not feel crowded.
flush toilets at huts, pit toilets every hour or so along the Track
option to hike the Routeburn Track immediately before or after the Milford Track
the awkward New Zealand Wood Pigeon, energetic Paradise ducks, Weka & other interesting bird life
watching comic alpine parrots try to open your pack

Considerations

The Milford Track is inevitably listed as one of the top 10 hikes in the world — by journalists who have never been there. 😐

Experienced Kiwi trampers know that there are a number of Tracks just as good or better, but not so famous. The Tongariro Northern Circuit, for example.

Yessica Asmin drowned hiking the Milford in 2014
Milford is the most expensive hike in the country
broke hikers can walk to the Kepler Track trailhead from Te Anau. Do the cheaper tramp instead.
10,000+ hikers / year means little solitude
Milford Sound gets 7m (23ft) of rain a year
expect snow on the pass, high winds and rain any day of the year
summer highs average around 14C (57F)
biting sandflies can be a nuisance (though we only saw them the last day). The best strategy is to cover all exposed flesh possible.
no bikes, no dogs, no tents allowed
huts have gas stoves & cold running water but are basic, full and noisy. Bring earplugs.
no mobile phone coverage, but huts have radios
scenic tourist flights over the Pass can be distracting
sturdy shoes for rocky, muddy, snowy and uneven tracks advised
early season hikers (Oct-Nov) may be stranded due to avalanche. If helicopter rescue is needed, the DOC tries to charge you for the cost.
consider buying travel insurance to guard against costs of injury or evacuation. Check carefully to see if your policy covers these problems.

Routes

Cost & reservations

Price increase starting October 2018 for foreign hikers.

There are only 2 itineraries allowed:

Guided = Glade House, Pompolona, & Quintin huts
Independent = Clinton, Mintaro & Dumpling huts

Guided hikers have a much more luxurious experience but still must carry a backpack for 4-8hrs / day.

DOC – Milford Track map and profile

Trekking Guides

Ultimate Hikes New Zealand has a monopoly on the Guided Tramp. Take it or try for a spot on the independent itinerary.

Logistics for Independent Hikers

In the summer season you need to book all three huts on the track. You must start from the Lake Te Anau end and stay in each hut consecutively.

NZtracker is a site that can help you book Milford | Kepler | Routeburn.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

In the winter season you don’t need to book huts. However, you must buy (backcountry) hut tickets before your walk. You can buy these via any DOC visitor centre (but not online).

DOC provides a step-by-step guide to booking the Milford Track.

We were looking to hike one of the other wonderful Tracks nearby, doing research at the Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre in Te Anau, when spaces became available for Milford due to cancellation. A notice was posted on a whiteboard. Instantly we bought those spots.

If you are travelling solo or two hikers together, it’s worth inquiring at the DOC.

Transportation to the Trail

You must get from Te Anau to the boat on your designated day. There are a number of transportation options both at the start and end of the Milford Track.

The Milford Track finishes at Sandfly Point. The name gives you fair warning. Cover up when you get there.