Everest trek – day 12-13

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

After a long, cold night in the tent, I awoke with “mountaineer’s lassitude“:

… reluctance to put one foot in front of the other …

I’d first read of the condition in the mountaineering parody, The Ascent of Rum Doodle (1956), one of my favourite books.

I was sick again. The same stomach ailment I had on the first 2 days of the trek.

That’s the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. I first needed to trudge down. Then find a safe way across. Others had advised that it was no problem this season, … if the weather is good.

Fortunately, the weather remained perfect. There was not even snow blowing off the highest peaks!

It seemed to take a long time to reach Lobuche.

I stopped for lunch and to recharge my batteries at a restaurant. Then psyched up for the relatively short and easy walk to Dzonghla (Dzongla).

it was a pity I felt rotten. The weather was stupendous. And the scenery even better.

looking back to Ama Dablum

Late afternoon I finally reached the remote village. But I spent less time in the guesthouse restaurant than in here …

I crashed that evening without eating. And did not get up until Noon the next day.

Mid-day there was only myself and the Nepali National bird, the Himalayan Monal, wandering about the courtyard.

Everyone else had departed at first light over the Cho La, the most difficult of the Three Passes route.

I had a forced rest day. Standing around like this guy.


see all photos from day 12-13

… on to day 14

days: 1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8|9|10|11|12-13|14|15|16|17| info page

2 Replies to “Everest trek – day 12-13”

  1. Rick, nice to follow you in your journey! We are leaving for KTM on January 9th for a 3 weeks trip. Last time over there was in 1995 I expect some change. This year will be my 21st hiking trip. Is your report a “live” one ??? Hard to believe you have now the possibilities to connect and upload from these villages. We plan to go to the Hidden valley from Jomson and than pass the Thorong La on our way back to Manang with a climb on the Pisang. I’ve done that trip solo in 89 in the exact same period ( January-February)with no crampon but snowshoes. They were fairly useful despite some local smily faces. With you being there now, what would you suggest regarding snowshoes ? Also the 3 passes route seems tempting… how much use you have from your crampons? It seems the snow is rare and not that deep…. I’m surprise, I recall more. How many days have you plan to finish the trek ?
    Very nice pictures and report…. We enjoy it. Happy trail and Happy new year!

    1. I’m back in CALGARY, Frank, for Christmas. My trip was in November. 17 days total.

      No need for snow shoes on either hike. You could rent crampons in Jomson or one of the bigger lodges, if needed at the time.

      The Thorong La will have snow, but so long as you cross after even one big trekking group, it will be a “road”.

      There is very little precipitation in January.

      Have a GREAT time.

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